Buildup-(pictures-a lot)

K she's home

I've got a fever...And the only prescription is more... Cowbell!

Glass pack

Plenty of room

Still tight

And he gave me a new pitman arm at $130. It was hand filed to fit, it's a Toyota arm

And lengthened the shaft

No bending there... Made from tire iron.

All in all $450 and I'm happy with it! Something done right for once R)

Oh the cowbell is a spark arrest

 

Lookin' pretty good there, Sammy.

Did the tie rod from the driver's side not swap over to the passenger for the correct length?

EDIT - Nevermind, I see you swapped to Saginaw.

FYI - PartsMikePars does custom length tie rods for ~$75.

 

Nope, the tie rod adjuster bar, or so it's called, was too short. Andy gave it to me when I bought those axles, it was a 1 piece conversion and went to the ross box. It wouldn't losen enough and put the saggy box at an extreme right just to connect it when straight, so it was out of the option. He figured it out and I'm pretty happy with it!

 

Finished buttoning this up tonight. It was locking up becuse of a synchro ring being too tight. I sanded it down with emery cloth as per Herm, put a clean gasket on, tightened her down and it's good. Shifter is on and it goes through the ranges fine. It's really tight though, like, takes a lot of force to spin it, it's not just a go at it and spin with your pinky, it's a grab with both hands and torque it over
But, it looks spiffy R)


Gotta bend a shift lever then and punch a hole in the tub for the PTO

 

K I figured out why it was so tight. In neutral I can spin the PTO easily, low range is tight, high is tighter. So, I conclude the parking brake is too tight, it wasn't fitting right when I put the new pads in, and you can hear them drag.

How do I fix this?

 

If it spins, and you can hear dragging, it should wear in after driving it a little.

I may be wrong though, but that's what happened with my mustangs brakes when I put new pads and rotors on the front.

 

I can defiantly hear it scrape and it spins fine except the brake being partially set.
After about 500 miles apparently the D18 brake becomes worthless due to the oil seeping in.
I was thinking the drum needed to be turned or the shoes sanded down.

 

When I put new shoe's on mine I had to sand down the shoes to fit.
Andrew

 

R)

Keep up the good work, Sammy. At this rate, you'll be cruising it to school in no time.

 

Lol thanks Clint R) I'm nervous about parking it at school, but the dude with the MG Midget and I plan to share a spot R) I'll park slightly on the curb and he'll park next

I did that until I felt it was going to cause the shoes to be out of round, lop sided, so maybe I'll just let it wear in?

 

dude i have GOT to see a pic of that when you do it! R)

 

No bending there... Made from tire iron.

Sammy,

Are you running stock tires or are you going bigger? That draglink might hold up with the stock set-up but if you did power sagi swap( i didn't check power or manual) you may bend your drag link at the welded location. Believe it or not tubing is typically stronger than solid bar stock for the same weight per foot.

In Michigan it is illegal to cut, weld or modify in anyway the steering components on a vehicle. Not sure for Arizona.

Just my concerns. Other than that it looks great, you are gaining immense amounts of experience and confidence and skills that will last a lifetime.

Oh yeah. I am jealous of your copius amounts of free time! Man does free time make a hobby go well.

BTW, congratulations on your successful rubicon run!

Todd

 

Todd, It is legal here in New Mexico.
The man who modified it is an old gray beard/hot rodder and he says he'd not do anything that would put me in danger. I have manual saggy, and I'm sure I'll do what Jim did and go to power later on but I'm fine with armstrong steering. The tires are stock but I plan to go to 32's later. He said it will hold up to those as well. The tire iron goes in as far as he could get it to go in. I know tubing is stronger, more surface area but this won't bend, the tubing will go before what he did. I have confidence in him.

I started school again so free time just went down the toilet, but thanks!
And thanks on the rubi R)

 

Good job on asking the important questions about steering components. The law is the law.

I remember school. I think. Just kidding. I'm not thaaat old yet.


I was building RC planes when I was your age. And doing civic theater( musicals) and choir( lots o renaissance madrigal music.....made me ache severely inside when we practiced a good ache) and serious skateboarding.

Love the thread. Keep it coming!!!

BTW I purchased a tierod and a dragling from PartsMike. Great stuff. May want to look into it once you go power steering.

Todd

 

Thanks
Hah, I'm in senior year and I barely remember high school...
The Jeeps been my project, before that I was building wood working stuff.

Indeed I'll keep it coming.

We'll see whose around supplying parts by PS time... I plan on doing it once I have grandkids running around (notice not crawling) and hopefully not before then

 

It runs.

60 -65 PSI oil eek: too much?)
140 degrees or so
Backfires and misses, won't run at idle.
EVERYthing leaks. Oil pan, trans-trans case seal, bolts, front output seal.
And it guzzles gas like none other!
Smelled like burning paint...

What's up?!

 

I'm surprised you didn't hear it in SD, Don
That is LOUD monkeys

 

Sounds good. Your high oil pressure might be causing some of your leaks.