Scott's '66 Continuous Modifications.

I agree the engine is an air pump. Generally, my experience is if the engine keeps running and the water is not too deep, you don't create too much exhaust back pressure, and if you do not start sucking water in the intake, you are good. But it is all over if the engine stalls and the exhaust is below the water line.

So back to the start of this thread, I am interested in the Holley Sniper system and how to make it jeep-proof. I am sure there is plenty of O2 sensors aftermarket that would replace the Holley unit for heaps less $$ and maybe better.

 

Scott have you checked your front and rear diff's for water? Your gear oil will be milky.

 

I haven’t yet but it’s on the list. I’m sure it’s time for an oil change all around.

 

Holly uses a Bosch sensor. It can be purchased from Amazon for $85. There are cheaper ones at like $40. Not sure about better ones.

 

I believe O2 sensors are to be mounted at an upward angle to keep the water coming from the exhaust during
normal operation, to keep from fouling/ruining them. When I added an O2 sensor to my M/C, I welded the bung at 10 o'clock.

 

Holly made that very clear in the instructions as well. They just didn’t tell me that I couldn’t sink it!!

Got the O2 sensor yesterday afternoon. Running again but with a bit of noise at higher RPM and power down a bit. Going to do a compression test today maybe pull the valve covers, oil pan if anything looks funky. Hopefully just needs to be reprogrammed when I get the new LCD controller today or tomorrow.

 

I am putting in an AEM O2 sensor to see how well I can get the TA470 under control. If I can't get it to function it will
be going to a Holly 390 with the TA470 Parts or pull the trigger on EFI. Good price on those Bosch sensors.

 

Got around to fluids change today. The axles were fine. The transmission and TC were vanilla shakes. It’s a lot of work and a lot of oil too change it all.

Also did a compression test the other day. All were over 100 up to about 110. 1980 Buick 231

 

Sunk Junk is coming back around. Holly Sniper is back to running well and learning the tune. This morning I finished up the new wench installation. Cheaper version of Warn product, 8000lbs for around $700.

 

Now you just need to put a little trolling motor on the tail gate and you will be good to go.

 

It’s that time of the year again!!
Time to roll Althea into the garage for the winter upgrades and maintenance.

Here’s the list (more to be added as I remember)

1. Deleted Rocky Road YJ spring kit. Use weld on brackets and some self fab components.
2. Part of #1 really is Shackle reversal.
3. Cut off and rebuild front frame horns.
4. Delete Herm power steering for “traditional “ Saginaw swap.
5. Repair bottom edge of tub with new pre-formed parts from Classic Enterprise. 4”
6. Different way to mount winch plate.
7. Engine swap. Pull 231 for a Dauntless that I pretty much have ready to go. Keeping the Holly Sniper in Jeep.
8. What do you think I need?
9. I can’t remember
10. Jeff wants me to get a 4.3 V6
11. Hobby thinks I should 4link the whole thing.

Hoping to stretch the front wheel base a couple inches and maybe an inch in the rear.

 

First step while it’s outside and still can drive is to remove sliders and grind to the original steel.



Some Moron (me) used a 1/2” of Bondo trying to make it straight.



Switching to chisel and BFH.



Going to take/record a boat load of measurements tonight if I can get Cynthia out to help me. Then start taking the fenders , grill and radiator off.

 

Hoping to stretch the front wheel base a couple inches and maybe an inch in the rear.[/QUOTE]

I don’t know what size tire your running, if you move the rear wheel back an inch it will more then likely hit the lower corner of the rear fender as it travels to the rear and up. You will need to open up the wheel well in the rear a little.

 

Keep the Buick since the rig is all setup for it.
There's a bunch of "little differences" that will take forever to resolve like fuel pump pressure, clutch, radiator and coolant lines, fan, exhaust locations, motor mounts... and you already have a motor to use.

 

You should be able to move the front axle forward a couple inches. Do this before the Saginaw conversion so you can get the steering geometry right. Trimming the rear wells you should be able to get at least an inch before comp cutting gets real. I think an 83-85" wheelbase is an achievable goal. I got 82 but stopped due to not wanting to get into serious steering work.
I'm with Jeff on the 4.3 and fuel injection. The 225/231 odd-even era is over, not financially the best return and some parts are getting pricey. If you move your sniper to an odd fire a crank trigger is in your future.
I think a shackle reversal with soa up front , ( stock height leaves) potentially leaving the rear sua to not have to tackle the axle wrap issues could be a good solution. Get some heavier u bolts and sliders, please!

 

Remember, CON24' will be epic! Stay within achievable goals. I only got about 5/8 through my winter 22 list.

 

Yes it is going from a 231 to a Dauntless. Opposite of what I did a couple years ago. The intake on the 231 with the Sniper is just going straight to the 225. Should be a one day ordeal.

 

Already in the works. Super easy to do with the engine upside down on the stand.

 

Blasphemy

 

I loved my 225, but my 4.3 FI is better. The 225 is the best stock engine in any old jeep... But...4.3