JB's 1970 CJ5 Intro and Hopefully Future Build thread

Thanks for the info!

 

You have a manual choke which is more dependable than the electric. If that carb has been on there a while be prepared for the mounting bolts to break off during removal. You might soak them with liquid wrench for a few days before you try, but that may not help. They break off all the time, so don't worry. The front 2 go thru the carb preheat chamber which is fed with exhaust gasses. The bolts usually corrode very quickly because of the exhaust. If they do break the Napa folks will be able to get you an "Easy out" kit for a 5/16" bolt. It will only be a few bucks.

They should be replaced with grade 8 bolts and put some anti-seize on them during re-install.

 

The choke control is probably the black knob just down and to the left of the key in your picture here. Press the gas pedal a little to releive the fast idle cam then pull the knob all the way out to see if the choke closes. if thats not the right knob just work backwards from the mechanical push pull cable on carb to find it.

 

Awesome, thanks so much for the help Grant! I had/have no clue when it comes to these earlier CJ's. The more I learn about them the more I love them. I've had my 84 CJ7 for about 3 years and have only had this CJ5 for less than a week and I'm already thinking if I had to get rid of one, it would be my CJ7... I think I'm loosing my mind.

I am gonna check that knob tomorrow. Thanks Bro!

 

Just got the Rebuild kit ordered for the carb this morning! I sent a message to the place and asked if they would give me a discount on the part if I mention them on the forum..... No dice.... So I ordered the parts from this Unknown company online (too bad online company - could have had decent advertisement with a link to your wesite) and hopefully will get them soon in the snail mail. Didn't feel like spending extra on shipping and I have had decent luck shipping through usps.

Now I'm trying to decide if I want to start disassembling now or wait until I get the kit here. I may just wait until it gets here.....

Man, I've got 10 tabs open on my browser. I need to calm down! I've got 2 jeep forums open, 2 different email accts open, 3 carb places open, banking open, and 2 dealer websites open. Yikes. Need to start closing these things down. My heads about to explode

 

Thanks Lynn, That is very good advise about keeping the notebook and tackling one obstacle at a time. I want to keep this a fun build, but also don't want to dig myself too deep and lose interest. Keeping my projects focused on one thing at a time should help me stay focused on the long road to getting this baby back on the road. I happen to have an old chain with a couple old rusty padlocks on it. Think I will give that gas tank a little H-E- Double hockey sticks and see what happens. I filled it up with water and let it sit for about 30 minutes and didn't notice any leaks, but I am suspicious in one spot, on the bottom, that looks like it has been sitting in gas. Maybe it's a very small leak or possibly it is from overflow of the tank while pumping possibly.. Just a bunch of rust flakes on the inside. Sounds like there is sand in it when you shake it. May be a lost cause, but I will give it a shot.

Now for my next question. What is the best way of getting the fuel sending unit off the tank? I figure I will ask the dumb question before doing something even dumber and breaking something

Thanks again Lynn! Great advise. Oh, and I will have to check out that fuel tank sealer. I thought I heard someone mention that before.

 

Well I had given up on the fuel tank, but decided to investigate it a little further.... she is done. I started lightly scratching the area that had the greasy fuel with a flat head screw driver and sure enough, POP, I found/made a nice hole! Oh well, I think I will be better off in the long run with a new fuel tank and no worries about rust chunks or leaks in the near future. - One less problem once it is running, but one more added expense



Now, do you think the old sending unit is worth salvaging or should I get further down in the pocket and get a new sending unit??? Also, still need to figure out best way to remove sending unit... Looks like you spin it or pry up on it. That's what I would wind up doing and probably break something.

 

Not sure about the under the seat tanks, but when I pulled my tank to change everything, there is a ring around the sending unit that you turn (i used light tapping with a small hammer and a flat head screw driver) and then it just pulls right out. Could be different on yours...not sure but dont think so. Also, yes your better off with a new tank at this point lol. My tank was in good condition but was full and I mean FULL of dirt and rust and who knows what else in there. Took over 30 minutes with a hose to get all the junk out of it. Bought a poly tank to use but the sending unit would have been held in place by these tabs and I didn't like that so I just reused my old tank. And for the carb, I would take it off and get it all cleaned up and ready to take apart, but would wait till your kit comes in. I have rebuild many carbs and learned this lesson the hard way.

 

thanks 72CJ5, still don't know your name yet. I figured that was how it came off, but before I started pounding on anything I wanted some reassurance. So I got it off very easily and found a monster! All kinds of rust barnacles on it. Guess we will be replacing the sending unit as well... Lord have mercy! I've only just begun and everything I've touched on this thing has turned to rust!


The road to restoration keeps getting longer everyday. Thank God I'm in no hurry and hope I will still be alive to see this thing running!

And yes, I am aware what JEEP stands for - Joel Emptied Every Pocket :v6:

 

sending units for these jeeps are really cheap. I think mine was less then $30 shipped to my front door. Even if it looked clean, I would suggest buying a new one...might as well. And my name is Mark.

 

Joel one of the few differences between your 70 and my 71 is you have the under seat mounted fuel tank. I think that changed in late 70. One slight advantage of the under seat is you can use a stick to measure fuel depth, that is what I have read several times on posts in this forum. But it is probably best to put the sender in since you have the tank apart anyway. If you post a want-to-buy on here, maybe someone will have one they can sell you and save you a few bucks. I have also noticed a few threads of people converting to the rear tank, so they'll have their old units some where(?)

 

Thanks Mark Yeah I will probably just buy a new sending unit. I think you are right, they are about 30 to $40. What have I gotten myself into???

Thanks Grant, I may give that a shot and post a wanted ad here. I'm thinking it would have to be pretty cheap or in really good condition for me to shell out too much dough on a used set up. But if the price was right, I would definitely consider it.

Yeah, I kinda like having the tank under the seat. I think having the tank in the back is probably the most logical and best spot for it, but I definitely plan on just keeping the tank up front. I'm assuming the fuel tank for the rear also is larger and holds more fuel. If this was gonna be a daily driver I might consider swapping it to the rear, but this will be just to kick back in and have fun. No long distance driving of more than 20 miles one way. If I'm driving it farther than that it will be on the trailer.

 

Well, I had a little time this morning so I started removing the carb for the rebuild. Fortunately no broken bolts or any major screw ups on my part. Haven't fully disassembled it yet. I'm gonna pick up some lacquer thinner to let all the parts sit before cleaning them up and reinstalling. Got my rebuild kit in the mail friday, so I should be ready to go once time allows. This is how far I have gotten so far.





Now for my serious question I'm afraid to get an answer to. Check out this pic. This is what I saw when I removed the carb. There are some corn kernels that I think got in the carb and fell thru. What should I do??? I was thinking about getting my shop vac out and trying to vacuum them out or what do you think would be best??


I guess the corn kernels are what I get for buying an old jeep that had been sitting on a farm in a barn

Also, Should I replace the float while I'm at it? I think it is foam or something.... Thanks Guys

 

Suck the corn out with a shop vac. Get a light and mirror and look down the holes and if you see any more you can't get to, well .... time to pull the manifold ans see what is down there.

 

Joel, if it was my jeep I would put in a brass float. The plastic floats were used before ethanol was commonly put in fuel.

As far as checking for more corn and what ever other foods your jeep has in it, maybe you can get one of the little cameras used to check rifle bores? Or maybe there are other miniature cameras you can poke down in there. If you are in doubt though, I agree with Rusty it is time to pull it. Geez one thing after another huh?

Now that i think about it, maybe the previous owner found out that ethanol is made from corn, tried to cut out the middle man?

FYI: I found a old brass float in its box. the Borg warner part number if CF295b. I don't know if BW still makes them, but maybe it will cross to another.

 

Yeah, that's what I was a afraid of..... thanks rusty - I guess there is a first for everything.... never removed a manifold before

 

Thanks Grant for the info. I am gonna follow your advise and go with a brass float. Think I found one on ebay for 8.99 with free shipping. Sound like a good deal?

I have my fingers crossed that the corn didn't spread. I think it was sitting in the carb and when I pulled the manual choke it fell straight down. There is maybe 7 or so kernels in there. I'm gonna see about getting a small mirror or something down in there so I can know for sure. I like your idea about a small camera, but I don't think I know anyone that has one. I really don't want to have to pull the manifold as I'm sure it's not the easiest thing to do and will probably then turn into a full blown engine rebuild.

I was thinking the same thing about the previous owner cutting out the middle man and just throwing in the corn kernels.

 

Pulling the manifold aint that big of a deal. Plus, im sure a new manifold gasket wouldn't hurt anything. Biggest thing with pulling a manifold is retiming the motor but this way you can make 100% sure that all the corn is removed.

 

Thanks Mark. I guess I will have to do some more research on pulling the manifold and retiming the motor. I'm a novice when it comes to working on an engine some I'm sure I will have lots of questions.... like what all does that entail when you say retiming the engine? Do I need to remove the valve covers as well?
I'm not afraid to tear into it, because I want to learn all this stuff, but the other really big thing is I don't even know if this engine is going to crank 100% or not. If I take the previous owners word, which I think he was an honest guy, it should run with a little work. But I am nervous about tearing into this thing too far and then find out she is toast or won't crank....
I'm gonna try to shop vac it this morning and see if anything else is in there
Thanks for the help guys