JB's 1970 CJ5 Intro and Hopefully Future Build thread

Purdy much. get you a gas can and stick your fuel lines in it and make sure they are at the bottom. Its hard to tell form the picture, but is the floor that bad or just covered with surface rust? As for you jeep leaning, i have heard alot about the older jeeps having a driver side lean due to years and years of offset weight due to the driver. I have seen lots of leaf springs for these jeeps on craigslist throughout my build of the jeep. checked ebay for the fuel tanks and found them a little cheaper then what you mentioned.

 

Thanks 72cj5. I thought that was all I need to do, but never hurts to ask first. Yeah, I was thinking about running a small suspension lift and replacing the old worn out leaf springs. Also will be replacing the shackles. the front shackles look like franken shackles. Yep, add that to list of repairs. I will have to snap a shot of them today. Also, you said you saw some leaf springs on ebay... were they new or used?

So today, if I have time, I will try working on the carb. If I have time I am going to remove it and see if I can clean out all the debris in it. One little step at a time and it's fun. Another thing that is making this fun is that I am in no rush to finish it and don't have a deadline in my head to get worried about.

 

Oh, and yes there is enough rot under the tank and drivers floor to probably require a replacement panel. The only bad area on the body is on the frame rails on the tub under the drivers side and passenger seat/floor. I didn't have time cleaning out all the junk under the tank. plan on doing that today.

 

No i saw the leaf springs on craigslist a while back and from time to time. You can get you a small suspention life brand new for fairly cheap. My jeep started with a 2 1/2 inch ruff country lift, 1 1/4" lift shackles and a set of 33x13.50's and to be honest, it was perfect for the most part. All i wanted to to in the begining was change out my tranny and tcase which slowly led into what it is today lol.

 

Yeah, I've got a 4" rough country lift for my 84 cj7 - Haven't tested it yet because she is still in pieces and getting ready for paint. I hear they(rough country) are a stiff ride, but heck, it's a jeep, not a Cadillac. I'm thinking a 2 1/2" lift and 33" tires will be perfect for my cj5. I'm going a little bigger with the CJ7 - 35's and about 5 to 6" of lift.

LOL, that's funny. Isn't that how all these rebuild's start. You start out thinking, "yeah, I'm just gonna do this and that, then I will just enjoy it." Next thing you know you have the whole thing torn apart just because you were simply going to replace the fuel filter and spark plugs.

These projects are never ending, but that is part of the adventure and fun of it! Always something that can be fixed/improved/modified

 

Ya the ruff country lift I had rode like a tank.....which is how he got his name Sherman. For mild wheeling the jeep was just fine how it was before but I wanted more. Plus your cj7 is a better candidate for harsher wheeling.

 

Sherman, that's a great name for a Jeep!

So I cleaned out under the gas tank and it will definitely need a new floor pan! You can see all that daylight in the pic. Also will need floor pan for passenger side to. Not really a surprise when I bought it I knew those were the bad spots. That should be the majority of the major body work that will need to be done...... at least to my knowledge:?


And here's a picture of the funky homemade shackles on the front! They are beautiful I tell you!



Also, good news! I'm thinking my Dauntless V6 is the original engine! No way to know for sure, but I am still trying to research and get more information on it. So far, with the help of sparky, ojgrosi, warloch, and many others I have narrowed down the engines build date to February 04 1969. I originally thought, because I was told by the PO, that the engine was a 231 and not original. Now I've found that it is a dauntless 225 and may be original. Sorry, I'm pretty excited.

 

Ya i would say the floors need some love. And basically, for the shackles, someone cut the original shackles in half and added those bars to the sides to lengthen them. Shackles are not that expensive, i think i paid like 70 bucks for confer 1 1/4" lift shackles for my Cj..im sure you could find them cheaper but I would def 100 percent not hit pavement with those shackles..just my opinion though. And it would be nice if you had the original engine in the jeep. Nice to have all matching numbers. I thought alot about swapping out my 304 (original engine) for a amc 401 or TBI 350 but decided against it since i would like the heart of the jeep to start with the rest of it...which is about all thats left.

 

Here are the shackles I purchased for my jeep and i was really happy with them. A bit expensive but are built very solid and worth the money in my opinion.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/46-74-Jeep-...Parts_Accessories&hash=item3f0c0683ed&vxp=mtr

And here are some stock replacement shackles for way cheaper...keep in mind though, that the stock shackles will lower your jeep further then what it is. basically, take a measurment of the added metal bar on your shackles and whatever that measurment is, thats how much lower the jeep with sit with new stock shackles.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Omix-Ada-18...eep|Submodel:CJ-5&hash=item564a181cf9&vxp=mtr

I have a few pictures of my jeep with the stock shackles and then with the lift shackles...both using the 2.5" lift, if you would like.

 

Yes, I totally agree with you. It needs lots of loving. The shackles will definitely hit the scrap pile as soon as I get to that part of the build. Thanks for the links on the shackles, etc. And yeah if you have a couple pics of yours with the regular shackles vs your larger new shackles feel free to post.

I am super excited because I think I have 100% identified that my engine is indeed the original Dauntless 225! I checked the Vin #, casting numbers, etc with the vin identification info on the forum and everything matched up perfectly

 

Tires in both pictures are 33 inches tall. The picture with stock shackles are with BALD bfg all terrains and the picture with the lift shackles have brand spankin new Swamper LTB's.

With the stock shackles.



With the lift shackles.

 

Sort of hard to tell fromt he pics but it gave the jeep a nice little boost for sure. I'd recommend it but its just my opinion. You could also make your own shackles for way cheaper. Just a thought.

 

Congrats, makes the purchase an even better deal. Also might make it easier to find parts on-line or at parts counters.

 

Thanks for the pics 72cj5. How did those ltb's wear? were they really rough on road? I've never run any bias ply tires before. I really like the aggressive look of those.

Thanks Grant, I was happily surprised to find out I had the original engine!

Well, I've been thinking more and more about tearing into the carb. I'm gonna have to take it somewhat apart to clean out all the debris and I figure a rebuild kit is only about $20, so I'm thinking I will go ahead and rebuild the thing while I have it off. The thing has sat for no telling how long, so might as well take care of it while I've got it off the engine.
What do you guys think? Good idea? If it was gonna cost more than $25 bucks I would probably just clean it out and go on, but it seems like a good idea to me. What do you say?
I was looking at Mike's carburetor online and also there is one on ebay here - http://www.ebay.com/itm/1970-CARB-KIT-CHEVY-2-BARREL-ROCHESTER-CARBURETOR-307-8-CYLINDER-ENGINE-NEW-/261000413958?_trksid=p4340.m185&_trkparms=algo%3DSIC.NPJS%26its%3DI%26itu%3DUA%26otn%3D5%26pmod%3D250840111558%26ps%3D63%26clkid%3D8881584188899762703

I think the one on ebay is a little cheaper. Not sure if there is much difference between the two.
Thanks guys

 

I really liked the LTB's. I had just about 2000 miles on them when i took them back off and you could still see the word "swamper" imprinted on the top of the outter lugs of the tire and thats with 2 or 3 mud trips, 2 mountain trips and occational light wheeling. Only issue with the LTBs was the width. They were 33x13.50R15's and gave a very "wishy" feeling while climbing or getting over an obsticle. For the mud, they felt unstopable but that was all they was good for. If you end up getting some, i would recomend the 33x10.50 10000000% over the wider 13.50. If you look the build that is about "family sizing a cj3b", his jeep is running the 33x10.50. Keep the air preasure at a constant 32 psi while on road and rotate every 3k miles and you will be good to go.

 

The rochester 2g is a very simple carb. Just follow the instructions that come with kit and you will be okay. Make sure you have a nice clean uncluttered work surface. Lay a large cloth down on the work surface so small parts won't roll away. Take it apart, keep track of where everything came off, take some pictures at the different steps if you need to. Soak all the parts in a good solvent overnight. I always use lacquer thinner but that is not politically correct anymore so you didn't hear it from me. If yours has a plastic float throw it away and order a brass one. (that is an opinion of course). Next day scrub everything down with a parts cleaning brush. Blow out all the little ports but make sure you don't blow away anything important. Select the appropriate gaskets from the kit because you won't use all of them. Re-assemble as per the instructions. MAKE SURE YOU GET THE FLOAT LEVEL & DROP SET AS PER THE INSTRUCTION SHEET FOR YOUR MODEL JEEP.

Well, that's what I would do anyway. You can find the carb kits on rockauto.com or at Oreilly's if you have that chain locally. Any parts house can order them, the carb was used on millions of chevys.

 

Yeah, I was thinking about running LTB's on my CJ7, but am planning on running 35x12.50 Goodyear MTR Kevlars. - Haven't bought them yet. I'm thinking the cheaper ltb 33x10.50 would be perfect on the CJ5. I think the narrow tires look awesome on the older CJ's - They look more stock. I also would eventually like to get the white rims and chrome half moon hub covers for the CJ5 - Don't know the exact name of them, but I really love the old vintage look of them.

Thanks Grant for the info on the carb! Never done a rebuild on a carb, but am pretty decent at following instructions. I also love taking pics of everything and agree totally with you. I will probably take 4 or 5 pics of the carb before I even touch it and then take pics of all the components as I disassemble. Pics can save a lot of time and headache.
Thanks for the tip on the lacquer thinner and plastic float - I wouldn't have thought of that or known that about the plastic float And yes I've got an Oreilly's pretty close by and will give them a call tomorrow to see if they have one available at their store. That would be great to not have to wait around for the kit in the mail.
Thanks.

 

goodyear MTR's took a serious turn for the worst with their new design...in my own opinion. They look like they belong on a soccer moms suburban and judging by their performance via many many many videos...they dont. But it also depends on what type of wheeling you will be doing with your 7. If it involves mud and big rocks...i would suggest something different. Sorry but the long tire posts, i have done LOTS of studying on tires and comparissons and am kind of...well...passionate about them. I put the Goodyear NEW mtrs in the same catagory as the IROCKs.

 

Yeah, I was close to buying the MTR Kevlars, but still haven't made up my mind 100%.

So I have been trying to find a rebuild kit locally with no luck. The local Orielly's guy wasn't very helpful over the phone. He said he sent an email about the kit to someone and to call him back in an hour and he should be able to help me out and give me a price. So I call him back about 3 to 4 hours later and he checks his email and says, "yeah, no reply, it's still pending......(insert awkward silence and crickets chirping in the background).... I guess they don't have 'em". SO, I guess I will try to order online from someplace. It would be nice to order locally so I could return it easier if it's not the right kit. Oh well.

So I got to thinking a little more about the carb and while I was searching for the rebuild kit I found a rochester electric choke thermostat. I really know nothing about these rochester 2g carbs and have tried doing some research on them. Does this carb have an automatic or manual choke? Would the electric choke be a worthwhile upgrade and how difficult would it be to install? From what I have seen, all you have to do is get a power wire from ignition to it to hook it up. Anyway I was taken some pics with my trusty phone and figure I would post the pics of my carb so you can see what I have to work with.




Also, I never cleaned out the lovely rats nest in the compartment under the passenger seat. So I took care of that today. I guess one of the PO's put some carpet inside the compartment to make the rats more comfortable. I'm sure they did it to deaden the sound of the jack bouncing around inside, but it was nasty inside there. I have a few good sized drain holes there so I pulled out the nasty carpet and rinsed the rest out with the hose. I'm assuming this is the original jack, but not sure.




I'm assuming that blue is the original paint color, but I could be wrong. I like the color and will probably paint it something similar.

 

2G rebuild kit from NAPA....part# 25478

good exploded view of 2G carb
http://www.carburetorfactory.com/expvw23.html