1970 Jeep Rebuild

I went out to work on the JEEP and couldn’t even see top of work bench, ended up cleaning the garage and going through my cabinets and drawers.
Earlier when I was looking for a hub to replace the messed up I remembered that I had put 1 under the seat for a trail spare, come to find out it wouldn’t of worked with my disc brake set up. I pulled all the extra parts I had put in there for the Rubicon trip and made sure they would fit and work and if they didn’t out they came and I made notes of things I need to acquire for trail spares. Didn’t get much else done today.

 

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I did receive this from UPS today….I don’t have any JEEP time for next couple weeks so it’s gonna sit.

 

Un packing the Howell system.

ECM and 4 barrel adaptor gaskets and bolts.


Inline fuel pump

H2O sensor and weld-in bung

Howell’s copy of Kyle’s crank trigger and GM sensor

Misc items, wire ties, waterproof fittings for wiring, hose clamps, air filter hold down.
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throttle body

 

I got a little garage time yesterday so I started by making the bolts for the crank trigger.

This was the 1st problem I ran into:
The harmonic balancer that I’m running on my 225 only had 1/4 holes, not a big deal except that it also has counter weights on it that block some of the holes. The 3 other harmonic balancers I have are not like this and have 7/16” holes.

this is the one I’m running on the motor now.:

you can see the offset counter weights:

This is one of the 3 spares I have no counter weights and larger holes:
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the 2 side by side:


they sit at same height and weigh about 1/4lb difference.

 

drilled hole in exhaust for H2O sensor.

Supplied bung by Howell

Bung welded in…don’t mind my bugger welds.

Pipe ready to go back in.

Made new 7/16” bolts for crank trigger: paint booth, painted the bolts and fuel pump bracket.

 

need to put this back together now.

 

before I put the front end back together I delt with the issue of not enough ports for temp sending unit for the TBI.

made a trip to the hardware store, 1/2” tee and nipple and reducer.

Got it installed

 

Got the adaptor mounted

TBI bolted on
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Looks pretty good

 

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got the crank trigger bracket mounted and the 3 bolts mounted to the harmonic balancer.

 

drilled the 1-3/4” hole in the fire wall mounted the fuel pump relay and the battery power supply and ran the starter solenoid wire and connected the ground wires to back of engine.

plugged in the crank sensor, map sensor, idle air control, throttle position sensor, oxygen sensor, coolant temp sensor.


also attached the PCV valve and vacuum line for the distributor in.

pretty much takes care of the engine compartment side of things, this is as far as I got today, about 3 hours.

 

You need to have the tbi coolant sensor in the manifold or T into a line with hot flowing coolant. Otherwise it will never go closed loop and it will run rich.

Also for others, avoid the front of the motor where the fan blows it will also make it act funny.

 

Like Jw60 said....
That is not going to work for temp sending unit.
The only way the T works is if it is in the hot side of the heater hose.
Can you put the TBI sensor directly in that port and move your water temp to the back of the intake?
It looks like you might have a port on the front of the intake?

 

I do have a port on the back of the manifold that I have my heater hose connected to, no ports on front of manifold.
I will move the tee to the back and move the temp gauge to the back and put the TBI sensor directly in the port.

 

There looks to be a plugged port on the front of the intake manifold just to the right and below the one you are using.
It connects to the same water outlet. My manifold has the same port and it will put the sensor in a better position to
directly sense the water flow and temperature leaving the engine.

 

That’s what I’m seeing too.

 

CRAP! Your right!…I just went out and looked at my intake manifold and there is a port in the front, I guess I should open my eyes and pay attention every now and then! Thanks for the help.

 

I got all the wiring done, time to crank it over……not!
It does crank but no start. When I turn key fuel pump comes on for 3 seconds but when I crank no fuel coming out injectors. I do have 11.2 volts while cranking. I checked fuel pressure at the TBI and am getting 11-lbs while it cycles. I ran out of time today so I’ll dig into this some more tomorrow.

 

Prime the pump and tap the 9v battery from the shop smoke alarm on the injector pins. They should spurt.

The cleaner used on injectors makes them stick after storage.

If it has a sticky injector tap on it like a starter.

 

Check your crank position sensor and circuit to confirm signal and operation at the ECM input.

 

Are you positive that you have your power coming from the key switch in the correct position? As in on a hot terminal in both the start and run key position?
Grounds good and clean on the back of the cylinder head?
Pink wire is wired to the correct power location?
This is where I would start.