Another Parking Brake Discussion..

All of these solutions are great, but they require engineering of some sort or another or a complete new brake system because they all seem to work on rotors that are under 1" thick. The only engineering I am willing to do to make these work at this moment are the wildwood ones if I can verify that they actually will fit over a rotor that is 1.28~1.30 thick.

As far as cost goes, that is a similar price for those as used 11" backer and ALL new brake components. Those just bolt on and are brain dead easy.

I really want to ensure that if I need to keep this thing in one spot on a hill that its not going to roll away and cause a catasphophy.

 

If you do decide on 11" drums I know someone with backing plates...

 

As per Norcal69's post, yes.

You can see the aluminum shim I added between the red "anvil", for lack of a better term, and the "body" here.


The calipers are Wilwoods 120-12069-RD and 120-12070-RD, for 0.81" thick rotors. That shim moved the outer pad out far enough to just clear. The anvil on these is obviously pretty thick so there is more than a little leeway for spacing.

 

If you get Wilwood's MC4's for the 1.100" rotors, you will actually have a thinner shim than I used on mine. I mounted these backwards with the cables exiting towards the rear and then coming up over the left side of the diff cover to get them to the "between" the seats brake levers. I would have ended up with a BIG S curve in those cables if mounted conventionally and they would be exposed to a lot more hazards, not to mention the potential chafing on the ARB, vent, and brake lines.

I used junk yard 70's Corolla ebrake levers, slightly modified. Those have been in there since about 1975.

 

I think the mods should move this thread to someplace where it is saved.

 

Most were, yes, but a couple years used thicker rotors and larger calipers that work with the thick Jeep/Scout rotors.

 

I think they are 1975.. 2 years of them and they are not common. They also use a differnt mount IIRC than the Generic GM ones.

I am once again looking very hard at the wilwood parking brakes. Duffer says I can add a shim to make them first over the thicker rotors.. this solution is not as cheap as just switching to drums, but drums.... It allows me to keep the disk brakes and also not think about re routing and remaking the brake lines. It does make me need to engineer a mounting bracket.. Thats about 2 hours start to welded on...

This is the dumbest thing to have this much thought process and money spent on.

 

but your wild thoughts inspire innovation (or a good dose of garage redneckery that works), and i get it, bolt-on is better.

Also so says the guy that custom built his FF axles

and you know, one day you will be parking atop the steepest hill above the convent/orphanage with a fresh tank of gogo juice, and all your cans for your two wheel toys in it also… so, preventing the orangegasmic high hood from becoming a orangetastic fireball is certainly a good idea.

 

They use a thick rotor ~1.285"
The mounting pattern is the same as a K10 caliper...around 7".

 

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=21586&cc=1409385&pt=1704&jsn=438&jsn=438
They are out there, but the issue is that they dont work very well by all accounts and as you can see, they dont come with the hardware for the parking brake. Those parts are actually very hard to come by. I would have done this years ago but it was so much of a PITA that I just gave up.

 

Yea you'd have to source them from Ruff Stuff or somewhere else for complete new assemblies. The bad thing is when they go bad what will parts availability look like in 5, 10, or 15 years? Probably not good which is why I haven't committed to them.

 

Ok, so the price for just these calipers
https://goturbo.net/wil120-15484-bk...1-19in-piston-1-10in-rotor-black-120-15484-bk
and the cables
https://goturbo.net/wil330-9371-wil...mbination-parking-brake-mc4-w-clevis-330-9371
but not the mount bracket or a parking brake handle is already 100 bucks more than 11" backer plates and the complete rebuild of the 11" drums..
How bad do I want to keep the disks to say I have 4 wheel disks? Its not going to stop better for daily driving..

What say you?

 

11" drums or a pielut disc tcase brake

 

if someone made a simple kit to convert the D18 big drum parking brake to a disk, I'd considering picking it up. one less thing I'd need to make for myself. I pulled the drum brake off the D18 on my 46 for more ground clearance and have just lived with no parking brake for the past decade, and will probably do the same for my 56 since it doesn't work anyway and the handle/cable were messed up.

 

But you just made the spare rotor mount!?!?

If I didn't hate drums i'ld agree to use the e-brake drums... but seeing that I have no drums on nothing and a hate for rusted springs and adjusters I say to stick to your disks.
Just my personal opinion and entirely against logic.

 

They don’t work well for people who don’t set them up correctly. Don’t bother to read the FSM on what the clearances should be set to and what the parameters are for making them work. The ones I’ve seen having issues typically are using the cheapest made caliper brackets that are not true, and do not true the rotors after pressing the wheel studs in to hold the rotor in place. This tends to slightly warp the hub and rotor, regardless of front or rear. On top of that they don’t adjust the cables to set the caliper piston adjustment correctly. There are pad to rotor clearances to be checked, but checked at the arm to arm stop on the caliper body. Most people don’t take these things into account because they want to shortcut things or don’t truly understand how everything works.

 

you make a good argument actually. Been so long since I had drums I forgot.

 

Thats what I pretty much read about them. Seems like drums are easier than those in that case.