Scott's '66 Continuous Modifications.

I’m going to put 210 lbs on the bumper and check the angle again. Stand by.

IDK, there’s not much “boomerang” to them. I’m not sure what’s right/wrong. Any ideas are appreciated.

 

PUMP THE BRAKES THEN!

Where is the spare tire and carrier? That is going to weigh more than 100 lbs.
You need at least 90 lbs of weight in the bed to simulate a 15 gallon tank of fuel.
Where is your highlift jack mounted?
Throw another 85 lbs in to simulate Luka.
Throw another 100 lbs in to simulate 1/2 of your expeditionary gear for a Rubicon type trip.

There is a formula that gives you an approximate distance between spring hanger mounts and correct shackle length.
Measure the spring ctc along the arch of the spring, as if the spring were completely flat.
Measure the spring ctc with the spring at rest, just laying on the floor.
Flat measurement minus the resting measurement will give you the ideal shackle length for the spring.
Ideal shackle length is not mandatory, however I would not deviate from the ideal length more than 1 or 1-1/2". Too long of shackle will try to stretch the spring and stress the bushings on the spring and shackle hanger.
Subtract the ctc length of the chosen shackle from from the ctc length of the spring when flat. That will get you the starting point for your shackle hanger location.
Tack the shackle hanger in place and fully load the jeep as if you were headed to Rubicon.
You can fudge the shackle hanger location around a little bit, but it shouldn't be much.

We have wheeled Rubicon together...... I'm allowed to tell you to slow down and do it right the first time.

 

X2

 

Definitely. I’m here to learn and don’t want to have to cut this apart once it’s welded.

I’m working today and going to Nashville over the weekend but maybe have time tonight to check those measurements. Maybe not until next week.

Like I said it’s been 7 weeks already and I’ve got 7 more weeks of fixes to do so another day or two is fine.

 

Needs more cowbell.

 

Rubicon will be epic this year.
" Captain :How's the engine room chief?, Chief: it's messed up quite badly, Captain : be sure to make it good, I've got a feeling they are going to see some action, Chief: already started... " Das Boot

 

spring around the arch is 46”
- Spring at rest is 42”
ideal shackles would be 4” (currently 5”)

spring around arch 46”
- Shackle length 5”
Mounts would be 41”

Do you think I have that all correct?

 

I don't think the shackles factor in like that

 

I’ll post the full text just in case my original paraphrasing was mis remembered.

4: Shackle length: all too often shackles are looked at as a means of providing or reducing lift. Even in this thread, the OP mentioned "I'll just run shorter shackles to lower it." A shackle is designed to allow the spring to move freely from it's free arch state to it's flat length state. With this in mind, it should make sense that the shackle length should be equal to this amount of travel. To figure this out, measure the flat length of your springs from eye to eye (along the arch) then measure the straight line distance between your spring eyes, with the springs at free arch. Subtract the free arch number from the flat length number and that will tell you how long of a shackle the springs need to allow the spring to move freely. Too short of a shackle will bind the spring prematurely and "short stroke" it (not allow full travel). Too long of a shackle will try to stretch the spring and will prematurely wear the bushings.


6. Shackle location (fawk the angle): You now know how long of a shackle you need, now where to put it? I'll once again refer to popular belief, in which there is an ideal shackle angle. This is a fallacy because the shackle angle at ride will vary based on the amount of free arch that a spring has and the amount of weight that the spring is supporting. There simply is no magic angle and simply trying to follow this idea could leave you with a poor ride or a shackle that inverts. Instead I want to once again refer to the mechanics of what your leaf spring and shackle are doing. The ultimate goal of this combination is to allow the spring to move freely from it's free arch state to it's flat length state. To properly locate the shackle end, we will now focus on the flat length of the spring.

I use a simple formula to determine where to place my shackle hanger. I've posted this before several times in various threads. T

ake the flat length of your spring (eye to eye), subtract your shackle length (eye to eye) and then add 1/2." Why a 1/2?" Well, 1/2" accounts for bushing deflection under load.

 

I think I understand it the same as the first time. Are you saying I did some measurements or math incorrectly?

I’m home now and it’s not even dark yet. I’m going to chill for an hour and then head out to the garage.

 

You have it correct.

 

Cool. The drive to Nashville yesterday and back today has me whooped. How does sitting for 7hrs a day make you so tired?

We did go to the Opry which was really great.

 

The u-bolts I bought were way long and the threads were an inch short. It took a few minutes to cut the threads.



She’s back to Roller status. And has steering!



Everything is new from the firewall forward.

 

I was able to push her outside to grind some paint/bondo then started on some bodywork.



Only slightly less amateurish than the first time I painted it.

 

Ran into some problems when reinstalling the fuel tank last night. The shackle mounts and bolts are larger/wider than the original mounts. Fitting the rear tank was difficult before and now it seems I’ll need to remove the upper bolts and rotate the shackles down out of the way to make room to fit the tank in. Pulling the tank on the trail is not going to be a repair I’ll ever want to do.

 

Do you have an in-tank pump and return?
Might want to add a pair of shut-off valves near your filter and an easy to disconnect fitting on the return line so you can use some spare tubing and a spare inline pump to limp around with a Jerry can on the tire carrier.

 

I got it all together this morning.

See on the right is the shackle and mount.
On the left is the tank and the strap that holds the tank centered in the skid plate.



I needed to use a pry bar to crush the tank in about 1/2” to fit the upper shackle nut. Happy with the end result.

Note to anyone who does this in the future. Weld the shackle hanger flush with the frame on the inside. It will be off center about 1/4” but will make getting the tank in and out much easier.

 

December 2023 - Changed name of thread . Thanks for looking.

 

What a tease !!!