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My 67 CJ5 build

Discussion in 'Builds and Fabricators Forum' started by Johns1967CJ5, Dec 11, 2013.

  1. Johns1967CJ5

    Johns1967CJ5 Sponsor

    Taken during disassembly

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    Last edited: Nov 30, 2017
  2. ecurb

    ecurb Member

    I see yours has 4 spacers between cross member and frame, mine only had 2, so I can't get the bend in my plate. But I'm fine where it fell in to place.it appears I will have clearance for everything,clutch cross shaft, brake pedal, exhaust, etc, so I'm going to leave it this way. Thanks for the pics!!! BTW, your jeep looks great!!! c
    Can't wait to see it done.
     
  3. tarry99

    tarry99 Member

    That's Interesting............like I said I have never seen that offset bent bracket before , but obviously it exist's.
    Can't understand if it's supposed to be a torque mount how you would control torque while applying it to a bracket that is offset from the rubber damper? One would think the bracket would flex long before any real torque control could even take place , notwithstanding it would have an opposite effect while pulling up on the bolt head rather than pushing it down although there is rubber on both ends!.........Another Jeep question for Nick Mil. Where are you Nick?
     
  4. ecurb

    ecurb Member

    Since the motor would torque lifting the pass. side of the motor, I think this is why the later years they moved the mount to the other side so it was getting torque pressure pushing on it instead of pulling like these are doing. Other thing is with so many different trans / tcase combos I think jeep just used what they had. I mean when you think about when they put v-6's in and customers complained the driveshaft was hitting the starter, their answer was spacers under the cross member, some were metal but some have found wood blocks, so it seems to me they used what was at hand. Like you said , nothing is a surprise in a jeep!!!!!
     
  5. Johns1967CJ5

    Johns1967CJ5 Sponsor

    I got all the engine parts ready to be dropped off at the machine shop to get cleaned and checked out. My plan is to put in a new cam and lifters, a piston ring kit with new bearings. First one I'm doing, should be fun

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    I'm hoping they can get this rusted heat riser and snapped bolts out
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    Factory markings on intake manifold ? or am I watching too many Graveyard carz shows :)

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    What is this ? (off the head)
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    I got the old decal off the valve cover to look at the paint color. Looks like I'm going to try the Por-15 buick green to get a match
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    Last edited: Nov 30, 2017
  6. Johns1967CJ5

    Johns1967CJ5 Sponsor

    It looks like these decals I found on ebay are a close match to mine but it doesnt have the chrome lettering like the second link/photo. Do repro's even exist with the chrome ?

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    Last edited: Nov 30, 2017
  7. Johns1967CJ5

    Johns1967CJ5 Sponsor

    Emailed ebay seller on first decal, he said letters are chrome.hard to see in photo
     
  8. Johns1967CJ5

    Johns1967CJ5 Sponsor

    Cleaning pistons today. Machine shop said at least a month for parts to get done

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    Last edited: Nov 30, 2017
  9. 47v6

    47v6 junk wrecker! 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    have the machine shop install new cam bearings. Others that have done it might say its easy, but i found it difficult.
     
  10. Johns1967CJ5

    Johns1967CJ5 Sponsor

    Yes, they are. They didn't look like something i wanted to tackle
     
  11. Jw60

    Jw60 That guy 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Not bad with the correct tool and experienced eyes watching. You can risk blocking oil passages and most shops don't charge too much extra so have the shop do it and they should stand behind it better.
    Your Doing a great job!
     
  12. Johns1967CJ5

    Johns1967CJ5 Sponsor

    Thank you, for the $30.00 they are charging me to put in the cam bearings its well worth it
     
  13. uncamonkey

    uncamonkey Member

    You can go to Humbug Frieght and get the installation tools. Well, how many motors are you going to rebuild? It probably isn't worth the investment.
     
  14. IRQVET

    IRQVET Bubbaification Exorcist

    This thread is awesome!
     
    Mark T. likes this.
  15. Johns1967CJ5

    Johns1967CJ5 Sponsor

    Picked up engine parts from the machine shop. Now I just need some time

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    Looks like the machine shop did an oops
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    Last edited: Nov 30, 2017
  16. Dandy

    Dandy Member 2024 Sponsor

    That odd looking bolt is from the factory.....You should have 6 of them...They go in the heads right above the exhaust manifolds, one for each cylinder.
     
  17. Johns1967CJ5

    Johns1967CJ5 Sponsor

    Yes, thank you. I found out they are emission plugs
     
  18. Johns1967CJ5

    Johns1967CJ5 Sponsor

    Well after a long busy winter I'm back at it. I wanted to get the crank in today. Started by checking the bearing clearances with a plasti gauge. I first cleaned everything with brake clean and a clean rag, then put in the upper bearing halves, placed the crank in then torqued all the bearing caps with bearings to 95lbs.

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    I used the green gauge, removed one bearing cap, placed it on the top of the journal then torqued the cap back down.

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    after removing cap

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    Right on the money. all the others checked out good
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    Last edited: Nov 30, 2017
  19. Johns1967CJ5

    Johns1967CJ5 Sponsor

    Put in new rope seals, what a pain in the butt to cut, even with a brand new razor. Will I have issues due to the frayed edges ? I can order a new kit. Not in a hurry to get it done.

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    Assembly lube all the bearings and put heavy weight oil on rope seal


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    Crank is in. All the caps torqued to 95lbs. Directions on the seals with the pins said to insert both pins in the groove on each side (4 pins total) is this correct ? I've seen it with one pin on each side ?

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    Checked the end play next. right on the money

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    Last edited: Jan 17, 2018
  20. Johns1967CJ5

    Johns1967CJ5 Sponsor

    Cleaned up the pistons too

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    Fun fun

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    Last edited: Nov 30, 2017