69 Dauntless Project - the 'Heep'

Requested this moved. Thanks for the comments.

LED dual function turn signals came in. They are bigger, will pull the originals side by side and take some photos tomorrow.

 

Here are pictures of the LED light replacements I am considering.

You may have to turn your monitor on its right edge occasionally for perspective.






This is a good show of where the new mount sits relative the old mount. I think the extra visibility may be worth the two new holes. Anyone else's thoughts?



size difference is apparent here.




Just a little bit wider




WOW! It's a bit taller, like almost 2" taller.





Here's a small piece of stainless sheet I have that I was thinking of fabricating a second mount on the back of the grill.



Just my little layout lines made with dry-erase to get an idea where I need to cut and fold... and drill.



No dust or water getting in through this sealed unit.


I didn't see this o-ring until I was noodling around doing something else and it fell out.


Here's the foam mount

 

Those are nice! I think I would do the two extra holes.

 

YES. They're a little bigger in Diameter, and they're a little more 'bulbous', but this means folks might actually be able to see a front marker light or a turn signal in the process. the stainless screws that come with it look about a size 12 or 14 diameter but with the stainless back mock I built, this should be plenty to hold (add locktite or permatex to the threads first, or put fingernail file polish on the threads after tightening).

I've read that a heavy-duty relay may be in order to make them flash right (easiest), or some sort of capacitor/booster (not sure here) that's similar to the NorthWestAutoWire nightprowler headlight boost wiring kit...

 

Ouch. That's easy to do... Warm up the plastic.

I have the LED rugged ridge round tail lights for the rear, but I bought the omix repro backup light. To replace the napa version I had. All these going in a box for posterity sake...

 

All,

In true fashion, I slipped a gear here with a rookie shift, and posted part of my LED thread in my build thread: both I suppose fit in both places, but for the sake keeping sanity in both places, and providing closure to my LED thread so to speak:
Here's the link:
http://www.earlycj5.net/forums/showthread.php?99840-LED-Signals/

Apologies for cluttering - trying to keep it not like my work bench.

 

Collecting Parts Continues:

Found, WARN M8000.... not 8274, but still cool...
Some Minor work and cosmetics needed:

 

How to Straiten a Bumper - Hammering Out the Solution...

Items needed: 1 RBFH (16lb - a short handled sledge - think circus tent stake hammer), 1 BFH (8lb - long handled sledge); Proper PPE (Goggles, Gloves, long sleeves ... I ignored the latter two, see below for reasons why it makes sense, after the fact... and that I had a carhart jacket on, but ARG...).

Take 1 well bent bumper from PO which had been tugged with a chain wrapped around it at least twice...
- Almost an inch of deflection, but C-channels were creased, ends bent from potentially stopping against immovable objects.
- bumper also had 'twist' amounting to about 1/4 inch

Grind off rivets that attach to frame with angle grinder
Use center punch to create a drill center
Drill out the remaining rivet shaft
- Note, some rivets are on the bottom and may require lying on back and drilling upward. It's like a one-armed-isometric-bench press. Hot drill shavings in your grip potentially cause F-Bombs, affective filter says use the word "Biscuit" - your five year old will appreciate this.

Tap out with punch.

Note: your neck and abs will likely be in a continual 'isometric' while lying under this and drilling and end up with neck muscle cramps running up behind your ear... good times!

Lay bumper on decently flatter surface such as cement driveway.

Use broken fence board and large block of wood

Look at images...
Nearly Before this: (I'd already straitened the edges before I realized I'd not taken pictures... dang!) Wish I had the sense to take pictures of where the chain was wrapped when they yanked it and crimped this thing in two places...


Occasionally, you may have to hit the RBFH with the BFH to effect a bend to the outside to make it look right...


Ok, this thing worked great... you use the BFH on the outside of the channel, with the RBFH behind it to keep your taps from bending too much.






fix the end bends




You need to hammer repeatedly. Sometimes, you have to hammer and bend it 'outward' to bend it back...
And then "After":



Missing here is me standing on the bumper, facing 'downhill' on the angle-propped affair, it lying on the big chunk and the broken board, me with the RBFH 'tapping' to take the 'C' shape out of the strait-edge of it. My 200lbs and the 16lb cheater really helped get this thing back in line.

*note: you don't have to swing 'hard', a decent smack from 10 or 12 inches above it or so is all it takes.









Here's what happens when you hit it with rattle can primer, it's 40 degrees outside and then you lay it on your tailgate... it's just flash rust prevention right now until I can get to the underside and clean it.


I think these are great stamps ... I assume the part number.


I was missing pictures of the sanding... lots of sanding with the belt sander and 60 grit, 120 grit.
And now... It took me about 3 hours total to hammer, look, hammer more, look.

I did create a few nicks on the underside rivets with the angle grinder - but the bumper is off, it's straitened and can always add a little wire weld filler later...

 

Bet the neighbors enjoyed that process!
I can't see any numbers on mine, but it is original. Too many layers of krylon maybe. Where are the numbers stamped on yours?

 

Drivers side, about a third way from the end.

 

Vacuum Heater Restoration

My set in the Heep is missing the off button also. I picked this up from ebay for a lot less less than the $150 the last NOS face plate I saw slip away...

I've been tinkering with the heater controls the last few evenings.

First: pictures and removal of parts

Note: Attempting to remove the knobs from the sliders or push buttons seems to be destructive, so I left in place.

Lots of pictures to follow.





This fan switch is likely shot. Big chunk of bake-o-lite missing out of it. Will be fabricating a 'tear drop knob' from Brownell's Acra-glass and stainless powder and black dye unless someone has a better idea, or some of this impossibilium lying around.
















this clip / washer was a bear to get loose without destroying.










A lot of rust, I hope this cleans up. Note: the spring notch on the part there... I think a small ball-point pen spring with the ends bent 90 degrees will be all I need to use to keep this in place once I put it all back together.
















OK, Degrease the felt parts with "Dollar Store Awesome Citrus".
The rusty parts were dipped in HCl 32% (muratic acid) from hardware store, paint remover section -> note: VERY CAUSTIC!! Smokes at room temp!
5 minutes to 10 minutes will remove 95% of most rust if you degrease first.


small parts like this vacuum cam were de-greased and placed in ultrasonic cleaner of de-greaser.
Note, the parts on the bottom here were all rusty: the HCl did the trick - note the small insignificant flecks of rust in pitts.


Cheap chinese freight ultra-sonic cleaner, heated Dollar Store Citrus Cleaner, two complete cycles (16min or so)




Cheap chinese freight ultra-sonic cleaner, heated Dollar Store Citrus Cleaner, two complete cycles (16min or so)


I've been cleaning, adding primer, and gloss black...
I have an image of a NOS faceplate so I can replicate the lettering. I'm not sure how I'll replicate that yet, but have a trip to the local hobby shop to see if that'll work.
Picts from the post-cleaning tomorrow (paint still curing on workbench).

 

fantastic build, and yes I used a ball point pen spring on mine works great.

I will be interested about how you do the lettering on the faceplate.

 

I've got a few of these controls so If you need a picture of the correct on/off knob ( rounded at one end and pointed at the other) let me know.........
On the face plate you can do those letters & arrow in vinyl. Go to a good sign shop and they will digitize the face plate and then make letters & the arrow in a pattern that fits the control panel.............the letters & arrow only get attached to the correct sized front alignment sheet but in reverse .........you pull the rear protective paper off the letters that exposes the adhesive on the back of the letters and stick the complete template on to your faceplate using the front sheet to align everything. Push it on smooth it down and then pull the front sheet off and just the letters and arrow will remain.

 

If someone can post a picture of the fan knob with rough dimensions (depth, the distance from the end to end, and the width of the tear), I'd appreciate it.

Here's the picture from a NOS faceplate I watched go for > $150 on ebay...

 

I am working on a scale image and printable text. My plan is to make a stencil and spray letters.

i will post when done.

D

 

69 Dauntless,

Here is a picture of the one's I have..........the rounded end is 7/32 radius..........the height of the part is 7/16"

Love to see how your paint mask works.

 

Tarry99,

Thanks a bunch. I need to find me those radius gizmos... excellent for a lot of uses I can see...

I'll post some pictures tonight of more cleaned / painted parts and when I get that scaled template done.

Dane

 

Vacuum Heater Control Template

I've uploaded a PDF to my site for the text I'm going to use..

Note: the template has capital 'I' with 'cross bars', which differs from the stock "I" that does not in the NOS image I used for the overlay.

Letter's A, D, O, P and R will present special problems for keeping the 'innards' so the spray doesn't look goofy.

Third note: the 'kerning' or 'spacing' between characters is slightly different than the originals around the 'I' characters (hence the 'bars' on the I).

http://www.danefrazier.com/images/1969_CJ5/heater_control_text.pdf

I'm going to transfer this onto 'blue painter tape' and use an exacto. I may use card stock weight paper to make the initial transfer from the printer, then exacto out the text, etc. and then exacto onto blue tape...

I held the faceplate behind the printout of this, and the shadows and holes line up very nicely...

I'll post up the results.