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69 Dauntless Project - the 'Heep'

Discussion in 'Builds and Fabricators Forum' started by Danefraz, Sep 12, 2012.

  1. Sep 30, 2012
    Danefraz

    Danefraz Well-Known Member 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Chico CA
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    Aug 11, 2012
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    2,280
    -- edit 20 April 2019 --
    -- photos updated from hosting issue --

    Rear Diff:

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

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    Drained the rear, drained the front. New lube and additive in the rear. New lube in the front.

    Rolling around neighborhood, I'm not feeling the vibrations that were there before - like the rear was locked tight.

    Next up: brakes and brake lights.
     
    Last edited: Apr 20, 2019
    Hellion likes this.
  2. Oct 1, 2012
    Posimoto

    Posimoto Hopeless JEEP Addict

    Minden, Nevada
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    That's definitely a Powerlok.
     
  3. Oct 1, 2012
    timgr

    timgr We stand on the shoulders of giants. 2022 Sponsor

    Medford Mass USA
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    Powerlock. Good unit. Should give you a two-wheel scratch under all straight-ahead conditions. They can be fairly aggressive, as LSDs go.

    Meyer cab, definitely.

    The number that should match are 44-9 (44/9=4.98) and 39-8 (39/8=4.88). These should match the numbers on the ring gears. 4.88 is the optional (and desirable) ratio from the era. Do you have an overdrive?

    The 9xxxxx numbers are Jeep Corp PNs from the era. Not useful unless you have the matching parts book to look for them in.
     
    Last edited: Oct 1, 2012
  4. Oct 1, 2012
    Danefraz

    Danefraz Well-Known Member 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Chico CA
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    Excellent. Thanks for the info. No overdrive. Mildly looking for one, bargain priced. 45 is a good speed without winding the bands too tight.

    Front I didn't take pictures of innards, daylight issues to get it done...

    Had a calc to dbl check my numbers... 44/9=4.88888... or 4.89. On the rear, 38/9=4.875 or 4.88 on the front... 0.0139 difference for the ratio front to back is pretty close.

    Seems pretty close, and the factory tags for the front match the guts, and the rear marks matches its tags too...

    I will pull the hubs and wheels soon for brakes. Coming soon.

    Anyone with suggestions to prep for a powder coat on rusty/ pitted chrome wheels?
     
  5. Oct 1, 2012
    Danefraz

    Danefraz Well-Known Member 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Chico CA
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    -- edit 20 April 2019 --
    -- restoring photos after a hosting issue --
    ------------------------

    I've finally done a little optimizing on my carb rebuild.

    latest 'rebuild' 2018, after rebuilding the engine
    [​IMG]

    I have a lot of before and after pictures, please don't go blind.

    -- 2019 April 20 --
    This was 'after' power washing with a 3000psi sprayer while on the Heep, then hitting it later with Berryman's in a can...
    [​IMG]


    <old images removed - 25 photo limit now per post>

    A hand full of the original dirty carb picts:
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    ----------------------------------
    AND NOW ... drum roll... elbow grease.... dunk chems, vinegar and HE Tide in a vibratory cleaner for 10min and a little blue-magic later...
    ----------------------------------

    I have a piece of glass that has some sandpaper glued to it, that is the nice and shiny on the base.
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    these are the first carb rebuild, prior to the engine rebuild:
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

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    [​IMG]

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    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Apr 20, 2019
    Muzikp likes this.
  6. Oct 1, 2012
    Danefraz

    Danefraz Well-Known Member 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Chico CA
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    Notice, I used a lot of new stainless allen head screws. Use anti-sieze on them!

    Also, I used the dremel, blue-magic and a lot of elbow grease to polish the baffles, lightly remove the oxidation from the air screws. I used 220 grit on the base, glued to glass to lightly surface the bottom baffle plate (cast iron).

    Air screws are at 1 1/2 to two full turns at about 1500rpms. Just picked up a vacuum gauge, that's on the hook this weekend.

    The idle circuit screw is also out about 2 turns.
     
  7. Oct 2, 2012
    Nightstr

    Nightstr Member

    Sacramento CA.
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    How much would you charge me to rebuild my carb like that.;) that looks awesome!
     
  8. Oct 3, 2012
    Danefraz

    Danefraz Well-Known Member 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Chico CA
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    Thanks for the chuckle. I have a day job in IT... May sound better end of day tomorrow or later in the week :)

    I'm only a shade-tree mechanic... Someone mentioned black might not be a good color but I thought it looked good.

    I think it took me a Saturday, but only about 4 hours total between other chores. Slow and somewhat methodical was my approach. Put it together day after paint dried.

    D
     
  9. Oct 25, 2012
    Danefraz

    Danefraz Well-Known Member 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Chico CA
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    recent update...
    Rounding up parts for what's really a light 'resto-mod':
    Getting my mind strait about whats about to be in parts and pieces...

    Mini-Projects Completed:
    -----
    Rebuilt Rochester small-base 2bbl carb

    Inspected Front Dana 27 Diff / Oil
    - now leaking 90w from passenger side...
    - deeper look now needed / will do when doing replacement hardware on brakes

    Inspected Rear Dana 44 / Powr-Loc
    - new oil and additive -> no vibration or tire feathering now

    Fluff Installed to Date:
    -------------
    Pertronix FlameThrower / Igniter 40k epoxy coil
    NGK Iridium Plugs
    Fuel Filter #1 (may need more shortly, sat for a decade or more)

    Sitting on the workbench:
    ----
    Pertronix FlameThrower / Igniter Electric Ignition Kit (
    - install instructions aren't as easy as 'pull the cap and replace points and condenser with this')
    New 8.2mm StreetThunder fancy blue spark/coil wires
    new LED rear tail lights (omix/rugged ridge - the old ones are present, and almost repainted, but are aftermarkets)
    new LED front turns/markers on the way (united pacific - this was the thread I started to search down something close in LED: http://www.earlycj5.net/forums/showthread.php?99840-LED-Signals)
    set of prothane poly-body-mounts
    New shackles (Summit RacingĀ® Shackle Kits SUM-7800292 - super heavy duty)
    new choke cable (omix)
    new light switch (omix)

    Ship crossing the Night:
    ----------
    http://www.nwautowire.com -> complete wiring kit on the way for the dauntless. 12 circuits of love, May upgrade the front lights to their plus-voltage 'nightprowler' kit.

    TODO:
    -----
    Brake System: Replace it all, try and save tubing. PO used ATF in system.
    Slated: during Frame-off
    Bearings / Seals: front and rear bearings if needed, inner / outer seals for GP

    Pull Meyer top, remove all windows.
    - put hinges, door latches, and door hangers into box for possible chroming
    - sandblast
    - primer and wait. Light Metallic White (think 'Ford Oxford white') or a 'Muted' canvas color.
    - investigate adding a carpet-like lining to reduce noise and sweating in winter
    - find or fab up cab/hatch mounts for the rear hatch
    - determine the 11"/18" lift shocks for rear hatch (40+ thrust each, two needed)
    - replace front screws with stainless 'socket head' type bolts
    - meyer doors are in excellent shape, but inner panel and latch system is riveted, consider drilling rivets to R&R interior of door /window components.
    - new window channels / weather stripping.

    Pull hood / sandblast
    Pull Window frame
    Pull interesting non-stock cowl-vent and check to see if it's worth chrome or black powder coat.
    ------
    Remove all hardware. Hinges / screws / bolts for hood to box to be polished/chromed. Door hangers / bolts to box to be chromed. Window bump stops for hood to be chromed and re-foamed (this I don't yet know how to do, but I have a couple ideas).

    Remove broken glass from window frame.
    - sandblast and take to have black-powder coated

    pull front clip
    - radiator to shop to be boiled, sealed and have fins straitened
    - small stress cracks in both front fenders about 2" in from grill. Drill end of crack, re-weld
    - sand blast front clip

    Cut all wires from tub. Most are melted and if jiggled just right, kills engine. Take a lot of pictures.

    Rehab under-dash vacuum controller - mine works - clean and shine and... (button missing and knob missing). Rehab faceplate. Images of originals available, NOS items are unobtainium - decent used seem rare at best.
    - using old button, make mold for the missing button. Using "Brownells Acraglas' stock bedding material, black dye and stainless powder... (that's gunstock bedding material for those that don't know)
    - using same, and picture of tear-drop switch for fan: make mold, mix and pour replacement. Shape to size of what's in an image I have.

    Remove roll bar
    ----------
    - has two center line bars up top, with the head-banging radio mount at front bar. sandblast, powder coat. remove radio mount, sandblast / powdercoat, save for someone else. ouchie foam is brittle and rotted. NASCAR foam not an option. Find pipe foam and black tape. Redo.

    Remove tub from frame:
    - sandblast
    - fill in holes / repair as needed (not a lot needed from my inspection so far)
    - bottom coat tub and tub panels with HNR from Als Liner (http://www.alsliner.com/)
    - interior coat tub with Als Liner 'Tan'
    - hammer out dents and dings as needed.
    - weld up few remaining rusty pockets (rear @ gate hinges)
    - bondo lightly, sand heavily
    - primer

    Check PO's work on rear gas tank. Fix and repair now.
    Consider second tank (poly) under driver seat, T-solenoid and electric gas pump/booster - or plug pneumonia hole in body where filler neck resided. The second tank / side-impact ejector seat may not be an option until I can determine if I want to smell fumes or not and how to keep 'em out...

    Original Willys Aluminium stickers:
    - have the original stickers from Willys for the model, color and opts. Rehab (covered with overspray from PO).
    - Original exterior is 'Spruce Tip Green'. Will need to test color: may want a darker 'forest green' instead. Dash might be spruce tip as an homage to the original.
    - My 5year old daughter thinks 'Pink' is the Jeep color... (may be if we can get a translucent purple/pink/silver thing going). Are you tough enough to drive pink? (FYI, when I was in grade school, we had a flamingo pink 59 T-bird... the pimp-mobile as dad called it).

    Rehab the stock 'V6' chrome accents for the dauntless.

    THE FRAME:
    ----------
    I've almost ground off the rivets to the front bumper. The noise is irritating at the moment.
    I see small cracks in the inside of the channel at the front shackle hangars. PO bubba repair evident. Grind, eval, repair and box?
    Sandblast frame
    Rattle-can with Rustoleum primer and black. (price is right)

    Springs: so far, so good. New bushings.

    The Transmission / Transfer:
    ----------
    Need to change the oil. Waiting to pull the tub. Will inspect and repair at that time if necessary. New seals likely needed: oil leak(s) evident.

    Degrease / power wash engine, transmission / transfer when not under tub.

    Inspect flywheel / clutch / pressure plate, throwout (easy when you're not under it!!!) and the rest.

    Paint engine. Looks like I need to custom match the original buick paint that's similar to the 'spruce tip green' but not quite. Have read threads here will revisit then.

    Black paint for Transmission and Transfer, rattle can special.

    New stainless bolts or Graded bolts / Nuts will be procured after frame-off and sandblasting complete. Liberal amounts of anti-seize will be applied.

    Remaining fluff at that time:
    Fab Front bumper mount to frame
    Fab a front bumper, d-rings, tube hitch mount (may be).
    Fab rear bumper, d-rings, tube hitch mount
    Fab frame cover for between grill and bumper (or plop a winch in there).

    ------
    Eyes out: for an overdrive unit
    ------
    TBD: saginaw steering conversion

    New chrome wagon-wheel rims from Cragar and likely 31" Cooper STT
     
  10. Oct 25, 2012
    Nightstr

    Nightstr Member

    Sacramento CA.
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    Long list!!! If you were closer to sac I would've love to come help so that I could learn how to do some of this stuff.:D
     
  11. Oct 25, 2012
    68BuickV6

    68BuickV6 Well-Known Member

    Hesperia, CA.
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    Probably should use knuckle pudding instead of 90w in the knuckles, should keep serious leaking down.
     
  12. Oct 25, 2012
    Danefraz

    Danefraz Well-Known Member 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Chico CA
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    Indeed! Leaking thru the pudding and out the bottom under the felt...
     
  13. Oct 25, 2012
    Danefraz

    Danefraz Well-Known Member 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Chico CA
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    Sac isn't far... 90 miles from my door to the 99/5 junction at the airport... Wouldn't walk it, but makes for a boring drive too...

    Prob for me is I work days, then family evening/ night, then when dancing w/ stars is on I retreat to the garage to tinker...

    When warm out, I tend to mow patch of grass, grind on jeep, edge grass, fiddle with jeep, blow detritus off walk, patio, etc... Fiddle with jeep. 45 minute edge, mow, blow turned into an afternoon on Saturday...

    What I understand is patience with this stuff... This is contrary to my notion of 'get a bigger hammer'. Slow, methodical. Take photos. Read a chiltons, then buy a service manual, I picked up a electronic one. Read it twice. I glazed over some of it for now, but I have an index in my head where to look now. Ask these good folks here. I have read a lot, and gained some good and practical insight over the last few months, still very new here!

    If you have questions put them here on the forum... So many buckets to read and places to ask.

    If you get up this way, give a shout.

    I will say it to the founders of this forum... Congrats! This is well done, excellent format... I'm here almost daily either lurking or adding random thoughts...
     
    Hellion likes this.
  14. Oct 26, 2012
    homersdog

    homersdog Tulsa, Ok 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Tulsa, OK
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    Keep up the good work, I enjoy reading this thread!
     
  15. Oct 26, 2012
    Warloch

    Warloch Did you say Flattie??? Staff Member

    Falcon, CO
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    You should ask a mod to move it to the build area for you.
     
  16. Oct 28, 2012
    Danefraz

    Danefraz Well-Known Member 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Chico CA
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    Ok, the rugged ridge / omix backup light arrived. Looks good.
    waiting for the LED front dual function markers to arrive.

    Question...
    Tail gate mount brackets. Both mine have casting numbers in them...663669. Is this just the part number from an eon ago? Mine are preserved under at least three layers of paint and primer.

    Other than I've been picking the paint off with a needle pick...

    I tried the oven-off on the tailgate... Pretty cool paint and rust remover. not advised to spray in a breeze and where erratic wind currents prevalent in your yard... Does not make a pleasant aftershave mist...
    need to do it at least once more... But at $6 a can, it might be spendy.

    Itching to try drain cleaner now. Looks to be the stuff wrapped in a plastic bag at your local hardware store... Would love to have lye in pure form instead...

    Btw, muratic acid @31.5% eats a lot of rust off bolts and nuts ... Quickly. Available in the paint stripper section of OSH or your local hardware store. $9 per gallon. Goggles, gloves at a minimum.
     
  17. Oct 28, 2012
    jim warren

    jim warren Member

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    I used British Racing Green from TCP Global. Paint was decent and inexpensive. They have color samples on their site.
     
  18. Oct 29, 2012
    Danefraz

    Danefraz Well-Known Member 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Chico CA
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    Great site. Thanks!
     
  19. Oct 29, 2012
    nickmil

    nickmil In mothballs.

    Happy Valley, OR
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    Dollar Tree, "The Works", $1 a quart. Works great for rust removal. Use in well ventilated area away from rust-able parts. Make sure you use something like baking soda and water to neutralize the acid or it will rust very quickly and continue to do so.


    Sent from my iPhone
     
  20. Oct 29, 2012
    Danefraz

    Danefraz Well-Known Member 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Chico CA
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    sounds good. I thought of this later. I'll see if I can track down a moderator...
     
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