Curtcanada's Wiring Lesson

The gen/amp light is insulated from ground. The bulb has 2 separate power sources, one from the battery and one from the output from #1 terminal from the alternator. When you turn the key "ON" you put 12V to the gen light which sends this voltage to terminal #1 which is not producing power at this time so the light will come on (due to a resistive ground at #1). When the alternator begins to produce power then the voltage at the #1 terminal rises to about 14V while the battery /ign voltage is still at about 12.5V. The 1.5V difference is not enough to light the gen bulb so it goes out. When the battery voltage goes up so does the voltage at #1 terminal. It will stay about 2V above the battery.

 

Crap Walt! I did a quick google search based on the Napa part number, which happens to end in "SW". Yep, you guessed it...it's a single wire alternator...DUH! I assumed that, because there was a hook-up on the alternator for the 2-wire connector, it would work. I can't stand stupid people; but, when it's my stupidity wasting time, I really get ****ed off. I'm thinking I might trade out the 1-wire to a 3-wire, since I really want to know if my alternator is kicking in; and, I don't want to cut a hole in the dash for a voltmeter.

Thank you for all your assistance on this issue. fb

Also, the temp gauge doesn't peg to hot anymore, not sure why, but I'll take it!

So, next on the docket is finishing the connections between the external lights and the light switch/brake switch/hazard switch and signal switch. Also have to wire in a dash switch for the back up lights (the 4 speed doesn't have a connection).

 

Final wiring for park/signal/brake lights installed, and works great! I have a seven-wire signal switch (Sparton SCR-3R ), the connections are as follows:

Blue = Brake Switch
Black = Power From Fuse Box
Orange = Passenger Front
Red = Driver Front
Turquoise = Passenger Rear
White = Driver Rear
Yellow = Power to indicator light on switch

Then my Hazards switch had a total of 4 wires, one for power in, and 3 for power out. I gave each front light a seperate connection, and tied the last output to the brake switch wire that tied into the signal switch. Brake pressure switch overrides everything except signal lights...perfect!

There was only one wire that I couldn't figure out how to wire : the indicator light on my signal switch. The fusebox included wiring for the seperate lights on an intermediate; but, I assume that I can't combine the right and left indicator light wires into one bulb connection. Anyone else figure this one out?

 

Can that be connected directly to your singal flasher?

 

ojgrsoi,
Normally, yes that's where this wire would go. But, the Fuse Box that I got (Centech GV-16) has the flashers integral to the fuse box, with no connection on them. I've never worked on them; but, I think the intermediates were able to simply tie into the front or back signal wires to power the indicator lamps on their speedo clusters. If I tie the wire into both lights, then I think I give the electricity a path to both lights when the signal switch is activated. And if I only tie into one wire, then the indicator light only goes on when I signal in one direction.

I kept the wire open; because I think all I need is a couple of relays to only allow the electricity to flow one way. Then I can combine the two wires into the one indicator light wire.

 

In the case of installing an upgrade wiring harness that has the flashers (4-way and regular) installed in the fuse block, they usually are two pronged flasher cans. These two prong flashers do not provide for a separate pilot terminal which is required to operate the indicator light in the turn signal switch such as the Sparton types. The intermediate model jeeps with the indicators in the speedo cluster have the indicator lights wired to the front turn wiring. If your fuse block has a three prong socket for the flashers then you will be able to make connections with both pilot terminals up to the indicator light in your Sparton.

 

Well no go on the three prong flasher. However, I just buttoned up the dash, and everything works and looks great. Gave up on the 3 wire alternator, and will stick with thr 1 wire for now. Back to my build thread. Thank you everyone for all your help!