Curtcanada's Wiring Lesson

So, I've started installing a Centech GV16J wiring kit into my 1970 CJ-5 with the 225 oddfire engine.







Mounted the fuse box...



Made connections from the fuse block to the starter switch...


And this is as far as I've gone. Through the years, I've researched and printed a lot of articles that refer to HEI electronic ignition, one-wire alternator upgrades, Petronix, ect. I've even collected a lot of additional parts through the years, not necessarily knowing what they do; but, hoping they will come in handy some day...well today is that day

Before I go further with the wiring kit install, I want to look at incorporating some of these parts/upgrades. But, I have no idea (even after reading all the wiring diagrams, articles, ect...) on how to install everything properly. So, I'm hoping to rely on your input to help me (and others) understand some of these pieces.


First, this is what I have in the Jeep...basically it's all stock:

Alternator (this is a reman from NAPA) (currently installed):





What is this connection on the alternator for?



I think this is called the regulator (currently installed)



Here is the coil (currently installed):



And, here is the distributor (currently installed):




Here is what I want to install:



I'm assuming the distributor has a Petronix "solid state electronic ignition" installed in it:



Thank goodness it comes with the instructions!




Question#1 : What is all this? Do they all work together, or is this a hodge-podge of parts? What advantage do these parts give, over the original stuff?

Question#2 : Can this be installed into an oddfire? I have heard that the firing sequence screws up things.

Question#3 : Are all the parts there?

Question#4 : What does the red box (with "MSD" on it) do? Does it replace any of the existing components on the engine?

Question#5 : I have an ammeter that I thought I wanted to install. The instructions for the Centech wiring kit refer to an ammeter optional kit. I don't have this. Which wire should run through this gauge?

Many, many more questions to come...I tell my 4-year old son that there is so much to learn, well it's my turn now

 

On your alternator question the one you have looks like a 10SI Delco. It is internally regulated so you won't need the regulator which looks like an aftermarket one for the Motorola alternator. Look at this link for a lot of good info on the SI alternator and how to wire them correctly. I would install a voltmeter rather than an ammeter.

 

I dunno and I am slow and methodical. So if I was doing the rewire I would install and wire everything as is. Leave things loose on the components you are going to change. Then search for each specific item and do your conversion.

If you have done component upgrades before it will be easier. But if you are less familiar with the swaps, the instructions you find for these components will tell you to take this wire off and put this wire back, etc. For me it would be easier to do it one at a time so you could also test each component as you change it out. If you change several things and it doesn't work where do you trouble shoot first?

Hope this is not as confusing as it reads. Most of what you are doing will be pretty straight forward.

Good luck.

 

mortten,
I didn't see the link on your post. I was wondering about that regulator...thank you.

ojgrsoi,
Good advice. I also figure that it would make any troubleshooting easier, because I know the system works with the current components.

Thanks guys.

 

I can help a little with your questions
1,3 it looks like everything is there if you have pertronix ignition installed in dist. should all work together
2 I never used w/ odd fire can't speak about compatibility
4 MSD ignition box improves and purifies spark to plugs it should be mounted solid but not rigid it it susceptible to vibration
5 ammeter wired w/ 10 gauge (red) wire from harness to one side of gauge out from other side of gauge to solenoid
I just put a ez wire harness in my 57 and am currently putting a painful harness in my daily driver 71
If you take each individual wire separately and bundle them together according to where they terminate it will go much easier
you won't have to untangle wires all day long, and as has been pointed out take your time it's not that tough a job.
What part of the W.S. are you from?

 

Oooops. Here:http://madelectrical.com/electricaltech/delcoremy.shtml

 

willy s flatfender,
I just saw your question. I'm about 18 miles east of the Utah border. I moved here about 5 years ago from Denver, then 10 years before that I was in Canada.

 

OK...going for it!!! MSD offered the 5900 in an even-fire configuration. You could send it in, and they would re-work it to run with an oddfire. The 1110376 distributor corresponds with the oddfire V-6. The alternator is definitely a 1-wire (thank you for the link mortten), and does not need the external regulator. The ignition coil has an internal resistor, so I'm going to remove the external ballast resistor from the firewall.

I took the Centech Fuse Panel, the MSD, and the Pertronix wiring diagrams, and combined them into my own . Any input would be greatly appreciated.

 

I just caught your answer about where you live, you should have unlimited help re-wiring this weekend!!
I am obviously not certain, but I think you have a mistake in your diagram. Shouldn't you eliminate the excite wire (white)
in the 1 wire alternator configuration? then jump from that terminal on the alternator to the hot (red) wire.
I have regulators on both my re-wires so again I am not certain.
As the owner and seeker of 70-71 Renegade models, I think you should leave the resister on the firewall and dummy wire it in to the harness
to set your Jeep apart from from clone makers. just my 2 cents.

 

Finally found some time to work on the Jeep. Had to go with original stock ignition set up (petronix magnet was broken). Ignition was pretty straight-forward; and, I feel confident it's right.

The lighting system is a whole different ballgame! I'm recreating what was there, but finding a lot if bubbafied wiring Also, with the fusebox having integral flasher canisters (1 for hazards, and 1 for turn signals), and seperate wiring for park lights, signal lights, and brake lights, I'm needing to reinvent the wheel. After forum searching, I'm not the first

So, I'll get together one of my wiring diagrams someday, and post it here for your suggestions. One thing I noticed was that everyone talks about a 5 prong hazard flasher switch. Mine has 4 wires coming off of it. Also, my Sparton turn signal is a 7 wire, but the wire colors don't match up with any of the wiring diagrams referred to on the Web. Has anyone else ran into this issue?

And finally, couldn't I just treat the signal system, brake light system, and hazard lights as seperate wires all leading to each light? I realize that this is a lot of wire to be run; but, it might simplify the process. Electrically speaking, would this produce too many volts to the bulb, if I had more than 1 system attempting to send a signal to the same bulb?

 

I have seen at least 2 different color arrangements on the sparton turn switch. Both being the seven wire system.

Running separate wires to your lights from the 4 way and the turn/stop switch would be un-desirable and I don't understand why the manufacture of the wiring system would even leave long enough wires from both systems to run to the back lights or the fronts?

 

x2 what Walt says. I've been doing a re-wire on my 71 cj5 over the last couple weeks but not smart enough to start fresh with new harness, been redoing what's already there. All done but dash is still wide open so if you need pix or specifics on wire colors, etc let me know. Also, I have found this wiring diagram very helpful. http://www.autowiringmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/06/CJ5-Renegade.jpg

Also, FYI, the Painless website has some very good instructions that although specific to their harness has good general knowledge and drawings.

 

Thank you for all your help and suggestions. I found the wire colors, after peeling away a little further on the electrical tape. I figured I went far enough up the wire; but, I guess not.

 

New question. The white resistor wire that leads from the alternator to the fuse box, shows that the dummy bulb can be spliced into it. All over the wire casing, it says "Do Not Cut". I understand the principle of the resistor wire, and the need to keep it's length for electrical resistance; however, I want to splice in my dummy light! Where do the two wires from the light connect? I'm using the original insulated bulb socket. Do I cut the resistance wire, and connect each side to the bulb, or do I just splice in one of the bulb's wires, and hook the other wire to the back of the speedometer, where it was before, as seen in the pic below (this is the post that gets 12V instrument power supplied to it from a different wire on the fuse box)? I've also included a pic of the wiring diagram.

 

Not sure of it's color but the wire coming out of the center of the socket in the blue circle should have been connected to the term #1 on the alternator to make the amp light operational. If this is still the case then I would just fold up and secure the white resistor wire and not use it. They both do the same thing. If you already have the white resistor wire connected to term #1 on the Alt and it runs up to the gauge assy, then clip the wire coming out of the center of the amp bulb socket shown in the blue circle and connect your resistor wire to this wire. You will be increasing the resistance reflected back to the term #1 but the amp indicator may still light up but maybe not as bright as it did before.

 

Finally back onto it. I clipped the resistor wire, and wired the Amp light, in series, to this wire. I hooked up the battery, and the amp light comes on wether or not the key is even in the ignition. Any ideas? I would really like to try to keep the amp light connected, so I know if there is a charging issue.

The unknown to me, is where this circuit goes after I hook the end of the white wire up to the "Gen Lamp" wire on the fuse block.

I've sent an e-mail to Centech asking about this issue; but, haven't heard a reply back.

There is a red "sensing" wire that connects the battery cable on the back of the alternator to the other terminal on the 2 wire connection, where the white wire connects to. This red wire is the only source that I can think would be hot, when the ignition is turned off.

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

 

At the gen/amp light you have two wires coming out of the bulb socket. You already have the wire from term #1 on the alternator connected to one of the wires on the amp/gen light. The other wire needs to be connected to a wire that comes hot with the key in the "ON" position only. Not connected to the accessory side of the ignition.

 

curt that sure is a nice job your doing sir.

 

Thank you. I was asked this weekend, when I expect to have it done. I used to say a couple of weeks, then it was months. After a few years, I just chuckle when someone asks

 

Walt, I tried this suggestion...no luck. I tried connecting to every connector on the ignition switch. The only time the ALT light didn't come on was when I touched the BAT or the TEST connector. But, it wouldn't come on when I turned the key to the on position. I'm going to need to get the voltmeter out, and do some troubleshooting. I was expecting this when I started the project. I think I would have been more concerned if everything ran perfectly. Another option that I've read about is a diode from Radio Shack to take the place of the lengthy resistance wire.

Centech got back to me, and confirmed that the resistance wire can be cut to wire the dummy light in series. Then, they said to just connect the other end at the "Gen Lamp" wire coming out of the fuse box. They conveniently ignored the part in my e-mail to them, saying that I had already tried this. Also, their instructions try to span the early and intermediate CJ-5's. Electrically, there is enough difference in the switches and speedo cluster to make this a challenge (not impossible though). It would be nice if they gave an explanation of what happens to the electricity at each connection coming out of the fuse box (ie. this "Gen Lamp" connector). According to the very beginning of the instructions, it states that the battery powers the fuse box, then power is distributed from there.

Another gremlin is the temp gauge in the speedo cluster. It pegs to hot, when I connect the battery, wether the ignition is on or off. Scared the hell out of me at first, because I first noticed it after I had started the engine.

On a good note, the engine starts and turns off. Battery and cables stay cool. Nice to hear it purr again, and get some of that oil circulating again.

Also, I figured out a way to work on the dash switches and gauges without involving my limitied yoga skills! I hung the dash from above, so I could mount everything; but, still have access to the front and back with the battery connected. I made sure to bolt an old battery cable from the dash to the frame for ground.