Long Slip Front Driveshaft

Need help ASAP, trying to make it to a trail run 18th of May.

Got a shackle reversal suspension, need really long-slip front driveshaft. Already broke one t-case. Cut and rewelded driveshaft twice, can choose to either have it break t-case or slip out of slip yoke. Problem is I need the 1.25" shaft for bell housing clearance. Local shop can only do 2" long slip. Looked at Tom Woods site, seems to say same thing. What to do?

 

Are you running the stock axle bump stops with a lift??? Are the stops located correctly for a shackle reverse?? You could try larger, or relocated bump stops for the front axle. That would limit your up-travel and might stop the splines from bottoming, therefore saving the case? The down-travel is what counts offroad. Just a thought, cheaper than a custom shaft!

 

i will be making my own long slip since H.A.D wants a lot for one there long travels so i am buying some splined shaft and some sleeve bushings from these guys
http://www.grobinc.com/coldrolled/bushings.htm

but i am making mine 3" od and 1410 yokes and 3/8" wall 1020 dom so pure beef

 

I have a long travel Tom Woods drive shaft on my shackle reversed front. You have to call and talk to him about what you have. He also supplied a front output yolk for my Dana 18 transfer case that allows you to use the larger ujoint. He does not list them on his site but it really works well for me. I think mine was was the prototype.

 

What about a 4 spline shaft? I know two guys that I run with that have been running them for quite a few years with no issues. Just 2 different sizes of square tubing that one slips inside the other. I personally have a long travel one from Drivelines NW in my Flattie.

 

http://www.driveshaftsuperstore.com/Drive_shaft_long_slip_yoke_and_spline.htm

 

That’s the link I was just about to post.
That’s where I got my Double Cardan rear shaft, great guys to work with, very helpful.

 

That link has exactly what I need. Thanks!!!!

You talking about a 1310 joint? All you need to do in the future is get either a 4cyl joint or just about any joint from a '72-86, including FSJ. You can even bolt the XY/YJ double cardan onto the 4cyl joint, although they are too large to clear the BOP bell housing.

 

Okay, before I pull the trigger on this, ordering the Y2K100/Y2K200 combo. Says they will machine the collar on the stub down to the size I need for free.then I just cut my existing splines off, weld and balance, right? Do I need them to turn it down to I.D. or O.D.?

 

Id of the tube you plan to use. The step should press lightly into the tube.


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i ve seen these They seem too work pretty good

 

I looked into these a while back, and unless there's a different one out there, the ones I looked at were only rated up to 1300 rpm. Would be fine off road, I suppose, but if I ever locked the hubs on the way to work for some reason, worried about an out of balance tube coming up through the floor.

 

One more question, I'm trying to do this while on TAD. Does anyone have the I.D. of their V6 front driveshaft handy? TIA.

 

"ok" for slow speed only but useless for anything higher than about 20 mph. Plus the slightest twist will lock them up tight. They are not very strong either. These came into Vogue in the 90's as a cheap solution and within a few years fell out of favor as the problems cropped up and were proven to be serious issues. Seen it time and time again.


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And they make a lot of noise when they are rubbing against something. Pretty crude IMO. But, they do work.

 

Late night bump for the West Coast crowd. Anyone have the measured I.D. Of a V6 1-1/4" driveshaft?

Or, maybe I'm going about this the wrong way. Should I just specify, say a 1-1/2" tube, have the stub turned down to fit, and order a new weld-on yoke for the opposite end? I think 1-1/2" is about the absolute max I could go without hitting the starter or bell housing.

 

I can get an ID of a factory V6 shaft tomorrow.

 

Thanks, rethinking though and think I just might do a new tube and also convert to 1310 joint on the tcase.

 

I am running a SM420 with an Advance Adaptor and they can get very close to the case. Using his yoke I didn't even have to grind the case of the trans for clearance.
QUOTE=jayhawkclint;1022327]That link has exactly what I need. Thanks!!!!



You talking about a 1310 joint? All you need to do in the future is get either a 4cyl joint or just about any joint from a '72-86, including FSJ. You can even bolt the XY/YJ double cardan onto the 4cyl joint, although they are too large to clear the BOP bell housing.[/QUOTE]