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Brake drum removal???

Discussion in 'Early CJ5 and CJ6 Tech' started by 66Tuxman, Nov 27, 2004.

  1. Feb 10, 2005
    ljspop

    ljspop Lurking Bronco Dude

    San Diego, CA
    Joined:
    Jan 29, 2003
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    394
    Not for the front's. Look at Tim's instructions above.

    For the rears. Definitely. A big one. I broke down and bought one off ebay for $50 or so a few weeks ago. Works like a champ. You're welcome to borrow it for shipping costs - but as oldjeep recommended - it seems to be a good tool to have around.
     
  2. Feb 10, 2005
    53Flattie

    53Flattie Intigator

    Easley, SC
    Joined:
    Sep 23, 2002
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    801
    No puller needed to remove the hubs from the front - they are held in place by the two large nuts and the locking rings.

    On the rear, if you get the drum off, seperate from the hub (meaning the rear studs don't have the serrations to lock it to the drum) then you *might* have to have the giant puller to get the hub off the axleshaft. It will really depend on how long they've been on there.

    But - if you're just replacing wheel cylinders and brake pads, you don't necessary have to remove the front OR rear hubs. They can stay in place while you work (although it's a little harder to get to the springs - it's definitely do-able).
     
  3. Feb 10, 2005
    SIDSCJ

    SIDSCJ Jeep addict

    14th State
    Joined:
    Jun 25, 2004
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    1,100
    Looks like you guys covered MOST of it, except for removing the three pan head screws that hold the drum to the hub! They're on my '56 which had it's first brake job ever last year. Not sure how long this was done or when(if ever) it was discontinued, but you'll never get the drum off if you don't get those screws out. Mine had never been out but a good soak with PBlaster, a couple of whacks with a BFH and the screwdriver and all 12 came out! You'll have to clean the crud/rust off the drum face to find 'em. I wire wheeled the mating surfaces, coated w/anti-sieze and put them back together. If need to check them just pull the wheel, back off the adjusters ( if needed) ,pop out the screws and pull the drum off. HTH
     
  4. Feb 10, 2005
    termin8ed

    termin8ed I didn't do it Staff Member

    Mason, MI
    Joined:
    Dec 22, 2002
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    3,881
    This was an early 9" drum thing. The 10" and up don't have those screws.

    I just popped the 10" drums off my hubs this afternoon. They have those stupid flared out studs too. I used a hole saw, 3/4" maybe? and drilled around the stud. Drilled/Removed metal from the old 10 drums. It didn't want to cut all the way thru, so I had to put a piece of wood over the hub and smack it with a VBFH. Couple wacks and off they came.

    The problem with pounding those studs thru the hubs, is the "flanged" part of the stud is bigger than the splines that are in the hub only. When you pound them out, that bigger section will enlargen the hole causing problems when you put new studs in.
    File or use a dremmel to take some of that flared part of the stud off before putting the new drum on or pounding them out.
     
  5. Feb 10, 2005
    John A. Shows

    John A. Shows Comic Relief

    Mendenhall...
    Joined:
    Sep 24, 2002
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    OK so the front hubs should come off with no problem right? But the rear hubs will require a puller?

    And both my front and rear studs are splined and tapered so that the brake drum is pressed to the hub?

    OK...I'm going to do just the front and think about buying the puller for the rear.

    I've already bought new shoes and wheel cylinders for all 4 wheels so I really need to do this.
     
  6. Feb 10, 2005
    John A. Shows

    John A. Shows Comic Relief

    Mendenhall...
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  7. Feb 10, 2005
    Brad Rabideau

    Brad Rabideau more Jeeps than sense...

    Shawano, WI
    Joined:
    Apr 14, 2003
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    182
    This is the puller I bought 1 1/2 years ago. Someone on the board recommended where to get it, I can't remember were that was though (suppressed memories maybe?). I do remember paying around $75 + shipping.

    It has a bar that attaches to the end using a BFH, however I used my impact wrench on it and it worked very well. Very heavy duty unit.

    I remember someone telling me that the JCW unit was cheap. But, for all the times its used...
     
  8. Feb 10, 2005
    ljspop

    ljspop Lurking Bronco Dude

    San Diego, CA
    Joined:
    Jan 29, 2003
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    394
    Mine looks like Brad's picture.
     
  9. Feb 11, 2005
    John A. Shows

    John A. Shows Comic Relief

    Mendenhall...
    Joined:
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    Man this board is worth a thousand knuckles bangs.

    I followed the instructions and the front hubs came off very easily. If I had asked first I'd have saved myself a ton of heartache.

    Now I've got to take the one hub/drum assembly that I've already separated to a shop and have them press the two pieces back together. If that's possible.

    I'm thinking they can just stack some washers up over each stud then thread the lug nuts on and hit them with an impact wrench until it sucks them together. I hope the holes aren't wallowed out to much.

    I installed the new brake lines and the new wheel cylinders so all I need to do now is to install the new shoes and I should have good front brakes.

    By the way...the wheel cylinder on the pass side was blown out so that was obviously my braking problem (pulling to the left) all along. It looks like it's been that way for a really long time, because the shoes on that side were hardly worn, but the ones on the drivers side were almost gone. Only slight scarring of the drum. I don't think I'll have them turned after all.

    Thanks a million guys.
     
  10. Feb 11, 2005
    blevisay

    blevisay Oh Noooooooooooooooo! Staff Member

    Portland Tn.
    Joined:
    Sep 20, 2002
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    Turn it Baby John...
     
  11. Feb 11, 2005
    John A. Shows

    John A. Shows Comic Relief

    Mendenhall...
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    Sep 24, 2002
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    But it's hardly noticeable Bill....like having to take your fingernail and scratch it to even feel it.


    Awe come one.....please don't tell me I should have it turned...I'm almost ready to put the dang thing back together.
     
  12. Feb 11, 2005
    Mcruff

    Mcruff Earlycj5 Machinist

    Albertville, AL
    Joined:
    Sep 22, 2002
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    John I would have them turned/trued and I would also get rid of those strange threaded studs in the hub you guys have and put the right ones in there so you can get the drum off next time without all the hassle and taking the hub off everytime, thats just ridiculous!!!!
     
  13. Feb 11, 2005
    John A. Shows

    John A. Shows Comic Relief

    Mendenhall...
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    Actually Mike the method of simply removing the hub/drum together is pretty easy. If I had just known about it first, I'd have done that and probably already been done with this simple brake job...but I just didn't know.

    OK...if you guys say I need to have them turned I guess I will. But I ain't happy about it.
     
  14. Feb 11, 2005
    Mcruff

    Mcruff Earlycj5 Machinist

    Albertville, AL
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    John what I'm getting at is if you want to take the wheel and the drum off for just inspection of the shoes/drum it would only take you about 10 minutes to do that if the right studs were in the hub and you wouldn't have to do 25-40 minutes worth of extra work just to inspect the drum for wear or whatever. Simpler to do it now then cuss it on the trail cause a small pebble or something made it into the drum and you have to disassemble the frontend to get it out.

    Besides the little details are what make the job simpler or more complicated later on down the road, I'm inherently lazy, if I can spend a few extra dollars and a little more time now to save a dozen hours worth of work, headaches and hassle down the road , I'm doin it.
     
  15. Feb 11, 2005
    John A. Shows

    John A. Shows Comic Relief

    Mendenhall...
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    I see your point.

    So...I guess I could take both sets to the shop and have them press out the old studs and press in new studs except this time, I could put stud in that are only flanged enough to hold them to the hub but not the drum? Is this correct?

    Hmmmmm....anyone else want to comment on whether or not there's a reason these hubs were set up the way they were? Mike has a point, but if they were set up that way at the factory, I'm wondering why.

    I'm wondering...are the holes in the hub/drums going to accept standard 1/2" lugs and hold them in place like they should.

    I know that one of the studs is a new one and it doesn't stay in place, but I don't know if it's because it has never been pressed in the hole, or if it just aint gonna ever stay. Maybe the holes are tiny bit bigger than standard.
     
  16. Feb 11, 2005
    Mcruff

    Mcruff Earlycj5 Machinist

    Albertville, AL
    Joined:
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    The replacement hubs for these jeeps are all the same.
    This is the part from Krage:
    Part#: 5358568H
    Model: All CJ's
    Year: 65-80
    [​IMG]






    Somebody replaced the stud and probably pressed it out and the flange on the front damaged the hole, Brian said the flange was bigger than the the hole was, which means you would have to grind away the flange a little and then press it out.
     
  17. Feb 11, 2005
    John A. Shows

    John A. Shows Comic Relief

    Mendenhall...
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    Yeah, I read that about the front part of the flange being bigger, but I didn't really understand how it could have been bigger. It had to be applied some time and if it were bigger I don't know how it could have passed through the hub.

    Nevertheless...I've just returned from the shop. The mechanic said that the holes in both the hub and the drum had been wallowed out too much. So...now I guess I'm in the market for a new hub/drum assembly.
     
  18. Feb 11, 2005
    John A. Shows

    John A. Shows Comic Relief

    Mendenhall...
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    I finally got the answer. Swaging is done to the studs after the drum is installed on the hub. Apparrently there was a tool for doing this. That's why the stud is bigger and that's why if you successfully drive out the stud, you wallow out the holes.

    And now I see that if I were to grind off this swaging I could in fact press out the old studs.

    For now...I'm going to buy a new hub/drum and new studs for this one wheel from Krage. On that particular wheel, I won't have to remove the hub to inspect the brakes, but since the other side is OK, I'm going to leave it as is.
     
  19. Feb 11, 2005
    John A. Shows

    John A. Shows Comic Relief

    Mendenhall...
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    Hey Mike...I just realized (with my astonishing realization of what swaging is...even though several people tried to tell me) that when I get to the back brakes, I could possibly grind this swaging off the studs and pull just the drum off without having to pull the hub.

    I wonder what type of tool would let me do that? Maybe a dremel? I doubt it...there'd be a whole bunch of grinding in a precarious spot I think.
     
  20. Feb 11, 2005
    53Flattie

    53Flattie Intigator

    Easley, SC
    Joined:
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    You're exactly right. I Dremel would do the job, but it's gonna take a while. Of course, you have to weigh the time and effort associated with each... Grinding for and hour vs. buying the big honkin' puller. Which would you rather spend, time or money?
     
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