1974 CJ5 Rookie Build

@Mike S: I went to see Don today, after looking around a bit he couldn't figure it out either, he was very helpful and is going to call a shop he deals with that refurbs balancers. I left my broken one with him and he said he would give me a call in the morning. Thanks for the tip!

I am going to keep searching around online for other engine options in the mean time.

 

Rusty or Mike,
Do you know of anywhere I can get a harmonic ballancer for my XJ at that sort of price that will ship to New Zealand?
My local part store quoted $280 NZD, n all the wreakers laughed

 

M38A1 thats entitlement for ya.

 

Very nice work! I am about 2 hours south of you. Maybe if I drop my 74 off in your yard, you will restore it next? Ha-ha!
Two upgrades that you will probable want, once you start driving the 74, are front discs, and power steering. You may want to keep eye out for the parts as you search for your other parts.

 

I am quite sure the "E" means you have a 232 there. I believe that there is an "A" for the 258. The timing gear set is the same. I would think that the ballancer is the same as well. I can possibly explain the incorrect timing marks on the ballancer that you were looking at. I have seen many a worn out ballancer that the outer ring slowly slips around the inner on the worn out rubber. Also some times different year engines end up with different timing cover indicator pointers and timing marks on the ballancer, to work with different accessory combos over the years. (This is generically speaking about engines not necessarily the AMC inline 6) If I were you I would just buy a new one and be done with it. They do wear out as the rubber breaks down. If you can find one for the $50 or so price range others have posted here I believe it would be money well spent. Good luck on the project. Looks like you are doing a nice job so far.
Greg

 

HA! Dont get me wrong, its not mine... YET! I am going to keep leaning on the owner because I would hate to see this thing destroyed just rotting away in my grandpa's chicken coupe
Luckily I have my own project mess here to keep me busy while I slow-play that purchase

 

1968-2001:
Someone at AMC decided to simplify things, or maybe the U.S. Government decided for them since engines now had to be qualified for emissions by type and size? In any case, all models used the same codes for the same engines. Some codes were used for more than one engine. Year ranges are given for code use. VIN and engine code numbers are different! This can be confusing. The 4.0 has an engine code of MX, but there are three different VIN codes (M, L, S). The earliest VIN code usually matches the engine code, later versions of the same engine may have different VIN codes but engine code usually remains the same.
A- 199 1 bbl (70)
A- 258 1 bbl (71-79)
B- 258 1 bbl Low Compression (71-74, Jeep ONLY)
B- 151 2 bbl (80-83, GM 2.5L)
B- 126 Diesel (85-87, Renault 2.1L, Jeep XJ ONLY)
C- 258 2 bbl (4.2L, 76-89)
E- 232 1 bbl (70-79)
F- 232 1 bbl Low Compression (71-74, Jeep ONLY)
F- 145 Diesel (81-86, Jeep ONLY)
G- 232 2 bbl (70-74)
G- 121 2 bbl (77-79)
H- 290 2 bbl (68-69)
H- 304 2 bbl (70-79)
J- 199 1 bbl (68-69)
L- 232 1 or 2 bbl (68-69)
M- 304 2 bbl Low Compression (71-74, Jeep ONLY)
MX- 242 MPI (4.0L MPFI, 86-01, Jeep ONLY)
N- 290 4 bbl (68-69)
N- 360 2 bbl (5.9L, 70-91)
P- 360 4 bbl (70-77)

 

@dvader Have you done the disc swap on the 30? I know I want to do that but I am not sure what to look for. I have looked around a bit online and found several different options but I want something that is CHEAP and basically bolt up, or very clearly documented.

 

The disc swap seems pretty easy, although I haven't done it myself. Tons of stuff on the web using 1/2 ton GM hardware. There are also kits available, but they will run you $$$$. I am still running drums, and they work just fine when adjusted properly.

Power steering is even easier. Since the 74's had a power steering option, it's all off the shelf parts. The pump bracket and the box to shaft coupler may be a J&W items, but the rest you can get at any auto parts store.

 

I noticed from the pics of your engine that it appears that you have a late model timing cover because the timing tab is on the drivers side, the 72-75 timing tab should be on the passenger side. The 72-75 balancer would not line up with the timing tab and the 76 and later balancer belt groove will not line up with your other pulleys. Now would be the time to install P/S and move the alternator to the other side of the engine and use the 76 and later balancer. I have a good 72-75 balancer from when I converted my 72 to P/S a few years ago but the timing mark will not line up with that timing cover.

 

I just took another look at your motor. On my 75 232, the alt is on pass side and timing marks are on drivers side. My cover has timing marks on lower outside , the next to bottom bolt passes through the tab. My cover is not the same as yours.

 

Thanks for all the support guys!
Here are the goodies that came in, I am almost ready to get the engine/transmission/transfer case back on the frame!
Goodies:
Body Mounts:

Water pump (FREE! THANKS ROCKAUTO.COM!!!)

HEI: (Came with a free camo beer coozie )

Roller Timing Set:

Rubber oil gasket:


Also I picked up the timing cover gasket, and the Poly Transmission Mount.
Im ready to start tossing this thing back together!

 

Ive got a question! How surprising I know!
Check out this shot of my Trans mount:

This is how it was installed but my question is why is the mount offset to the side like that? It would seem that the bracket between the mount and the trans doesn't do anything but allow the mount to be offset, I looked at the manual, its not in there. Should I just lose the bracket and bolt the mount right to the trans or is this normal?

I can't wait to get this thing back with the engine on the chassis!

 

Mine is also offset like that

This should show you what you need

http://www.earlycj5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=65436&highlight=trans+mount

 

Getting the motor back together, next step I have to deal with this:

Any ideas or suggestions?

 

dump it for a newer 2 barrel

 

will the newer 2 barrel bolt up to that intake? or do I need to upgrade the intake as well?

 

I am not sure if it will bolt up ( I dont think so), but you can get the intake fairly cheaply and take advantage of the extra barrel.

 

Where did you get your distributor? how do you like it?