Question About Clutch Linkage.

Got my rebuild kit for my clutch linkage today. Comparing it to the old one it's about 2" too
long. I'm wondering if what I had on it was stock?? Is there any difference in a tube for the
T-98 verses any other tranny?? Here are a shot of it. So I'm assuming I have to cut this
down and reweld one of the ears?? Or is there another CJ that uses a shorter crank???

 

Krage. Took them 2.5 weeks to get it to me.. I'm planning on getting a
section cut out of it and welded together. Just wondering if it was stock
or not..

 

The old part is 4 1/2" between the levers. The new one is 5 3/4" between them. I measured the
space between the flat part of the pivot on the tranny and the inside wall of the frame and
it measures 8 1/8". That's exactly what the new part measures. There is no room for the
pivot/bracket that mounts to the frame and the seals.

All the places on line sell the same cross shaft. So I guess I'll need to take 1 3/8" out of the shaft..

Thanks for the info Jim. It seems like the same problem I had w/ the front drive shaft.
Had to get it cut down also....

 

Well, finally got it done. After splicing the tube and taking out 1 3/8"
it works like a charm. It was a bit tight but I lowered the tranny
and angled the tube in w/ pivots in. After a couple taps w/ a hammer
it slid in to place. Had to lengthen the clutch side cable about 3/4"
and it went right in w/ the pin. Took it around the block and it's
tight. I'm kind of thinking now I should've taken a bit more out of
it. I guess I need to tourqe the frame and see if there is any binding.

But after 3 weeks I'm pretty happy. Great way to start Thanksgiving
day!!! In the garage, working on the CJ and solving an issue....

 

Jim (jpflat2a) posted three different part numbers for this part. But I believe there
is only one part available. The rebuild kit I got was the only one offered. The one
I that broke didn't look stock. Hence the reason I had to have mine spliced. I had
a solid rod welded inside the splice for strength. I used 6 3/4" length. The seals are
tight on both sides @ the pivots. Like I said I would probably shorten it a bit more.
Maybe 6 5/8".

As for the widths of the two tranny's I'm not sure. Here is the location of the pivot
on the T-98. From the 3B page.

http://www.film.queensu.ca/CJ3B/Tech/T98A.html

 

There is actually supposed to be a spring inside the rod to keep tension on it. Just jammed in there so to speak is not correct, the rod is supposed to be able to float. When I get a chance I'll measure the wagon and CJ to check for a difference in length.

 

Correct Glenn. There are (one each side) cotter pins that keep a
disc and the felt pads moving towards the center of the tube. One
pin is further the center I put the spring in, then the disc, then the
felt pad. The rod I mentioned was in the center of the tube under
the splice. It doesn't go any further than the cotter pin holes.

I just haven't been able to track down an original tube. So I just
cut one down to fit. It works pretty well so far.

 

Good deal! I misinterpreted what you wrote.

 

No sweat Glenn. I'm used to drawing these things out to explain them.
I can't explain anything anymore w/out a pencil/paper!!! R)

 

R)

 

If the frames are different I would think so. Again, Jim mentions 3
different part numbers for it. Probably dependent on the frame and
tranny and years.

Sorry I can't be more specific. But I can only base it on the reponses
in this thread and a couple of others.

 

That special information page sure has some "interesting" info on it.

 

The Omix-Ada stuff is notoriously off spec. I had to cut one of the tabs off and re-weld it 30* from where it was in order to get it to work on my flatty with the L-134/T-90/D-18 setup.

Factory welds were crap anyway, they would have failed had I not fixed them. Best $15 bux I ever spent..