Fresh from the powder coater

That looks really nice. I had my frame powder coated last year. amazing the job they did. For your body panels, did they require all pieces to be bare metal? Was your PC'er able to get up into the tight spots and into seems, etc.?

Also, anyone know if PC has the same durability for standing up to UV and the airborne contaminants that we face? I know it's good for resisting chips etc. I just wonder if the gloss will stay as long as a convential paint job. I have my ecj5 done to pieces and might consider going this route too.

 

Yes, everything was blasted to bare metal, powder primed and then color. Everything seems to be covered including all the tight spots. I also had the tub sprayed with bed liner to ensure everything was sealed.

As for the durability, I'll have to wait and see. I do know there are interior and exterior powders...so I would assume the exterior powders would be more durable. I'll be seeing the powder coater today and see if I can't get you better answers.

 

Please do, Mike! I'm assuming body parts have to be completely smooth and dent, bump, and wrinkle free, or any little imperfections will show up? And I'd really like to know what they do about the rust in the body seams. I'm wondering if the seams could be treated with Ospho first. I asked my powdercoater about this and he didn't really have an answer.

I'd also like to know about the "p/c-safe" body fillers you mentioned. And the $800 price, was that for the tub alone, or does that include the fenders, hood, grill, tailgate, dash, etc.?

 

Most powders are polyester of some sort, the powder takes an electostatic charge (natuarlly want to go to ground). Your metal parts are grounded and it sticks. then in to an oven to cure the paint.The paint is ,as with any job, only as good as the prep that goes into it. There are several washes available to run parts thru to obtain this.
We have a 5 stage wash system here for our powder line.

 

According to the powder coater, it’s not supposed to oxidize. As for the rust in the seams, I’m not sure. I would assume you would take care of them the same way you would if it was getting painted. I didn’t really worry about that because I replaced all my interior sheet metal. The bodywork prep is very important…just like painting. Unfortunately, I’m not a body man so I’m a little disappointed in the final product.

These are the body fillers my pc recommended -
http://www.evercoat.com/productDetail.aspx?pID=37 (I didn’t use this one)
http://www.alvinproducts.com/ (I used this because it was rated up to 1000 degrees F the lable said pc safe)

The total cost of pc and bed lining was $1,150. It was $800 for pc that included hood, grill, fenders, tailgate (complete coverage on these parts), and tub. Everything on the tub was sprayed except for the floor because of the bed liner. $350 for bed lining the inside of the tub and a 4” rocker panel strip.

I’ll get some more photos next week…the shop I’m using is closed all weekend.

 

:drool: :drool: :drool: :drool: :drool:

 

It's back together and on the road. Here are a couple before and after photos.

 

That looks hot! Congrats on getting it back together and on the road so fast. Good work.

 

That looks great! I can't believe you have it all together and driving already, you don't mess around.

 

Can you fly faster than a speeding bullet and leap over tall buildings in a single bound too? That was FAST. Oh, by the way, it looks awesome too.

 

Thanks. It went together quick because I was sick of walking.

 

Very nice.

 

Did you have anything else powdercoated besides the sheet metal? I've had my frame done, and I just got the D44 housing, cover, bolts/washers, and yoke all done.

 

Very Sharp Jeep you got. My mom would love the Yellow its her favorite color.

Chili_p

 

Ron, just the sheet metal is powdercoated. I didn't have the time to strip down to the frame. So I just cleaned the frame and axles and applied POR15 & Chassis Black.