2X4 frame for my CJ2A

Made a mount/ stand off for the radiator to clear the power steering hoses.

1/4" Aluminum plate bolts to that mount and then to the radiator and is also the shroud/ fan mount.

The top gets a rod that bolts through the top of the plate and into the cowl flange like its supposed to.


I will cut out the hole for the fan and mount it with probably 1/4-20 cap screws. There is not a lot of clearance.

 

Looks like you're on the home stretch! I would find it hard not to call in sick to work for a few days

 

I don't have any work until wednesday of next week.......

 

I'll bet that fan really sucks.

 

A few years ago, like maybe 30. i went into a building that a friend was painting the bar truss ceiling flat black. He had a suit on but forgot his eyes so I had to tell him which places he missed.

 

I don't know that is all that fantastic, but thanks. The end pieces are made out of one piece of flat 10 gauge sheet steel just cut, bent and Tig welded. I think this is going to be vastly superior to my last iteration.

Steering shaft is done.

 

Hole cut out of the aluminum. Regular wood working jig saw blades work best. I cut it square with a circular saw with normal carbide tipped blades.

1/4-20cap screws threaded into the aluminum

Radiator bolted in place

rubber under radiator that you can't see.

 

I worked in a skylight factory and everything aluminum was cut with triple chip carbide blades. Sometimes something like WD40 was sprayed on the blade to improve the cut surface. There was also a tube about the size of a tube of caulk, paper outside so it wouldn't damage the blade and it looked like beeswax inside. Same idea, lube the blade and there is less vibration and the cut comes out better, and it was easier on the saw.
It will be interesting to see how well your fan project works.

 

Chris, Now that's a big fan and a nice mount........Wondering how much area of that cross flow radiator core along the sides beyond the fan opening are being blocked from air by the solid aluminum plate mount?

 

Sort of where I was heading. I bought a electric fan that was supposed to cool a SBC 350. It wouldn't. It ended up on my 3B with a real V6 radiator and the entire core area is exposed. I think about building a shroud and it has been pointed out, the fan is only about half of the way below the radiator so it would be an interesting bit of metal work.
My system works, but sometimes while out in UT, in the middle of the summer, I have to run the electric and manual fans along with both heaters to keep things to what I consider proper levels.

 

Well guys, the old setup was the same radiator with a mechanical fan that only went half way up the radiator. It cooled the engine too well. Remember guys, this radiator goes from the outside, edges close to the fenders, of the headlight buckets. This fan is effectively twice the size of the old one, but does have aluminum plate to block some of th airflow. that might be a good thing as I have excess cooling capacity. Thats why I didn't mill slots in it. We shall see how well it works. I would like to wire the ignition and charging system this week and see if it runs or blows up.

 

I didn't want to step on your toes. I just hope your solution works.

 

Me too No Toes............I like the Idea , just saying that since the water is traveling horizontal in a cross flow the areas on the outside that are restricted from air flow will be hotter than in the middle , although not saying you cannot manage that with the excess cooling you say you have.

How Hot does it get there?

 

You guys know I like the feedback. Its constructive and makes me think of a solution if the need arises.

It gets hot here, but not a lot of days over 95. If I need more cooling there are 2 things I can do. Mill slots or a cutout to allow more airflow through the plate or use the thermo switch that cuts in at 180 and off at 165 as apposed to the one I just ordered that is a 190 on 175 off.

My issues with cooling are that the jeep runs up to about 195 on a 185 thermostat, then when it opens it goes down to about 175 or lower on cool days. Its like you dropped ice water into the engine. This cannot be good for proper combustion and I would like to get a more steady temperature. 10 or even 15 degrees is ok for me, but more than that is to much.

After I start it up, I will now how well or poorly it works.

 

Plumber my PCV into the intake manifold. I don't want to T into the port on the back of the carb. Its a bit larger than the intake port and I would rather have that for the brake booster.

bolted in the booster/master and the clutch master

pedals too

not a lot of room for all this

 

As said, I want to see if it works... I get out to UT in the summer and it can get to 112 out there as I putt up a trail in 1st low range.
I ran a compressor that was one of the old L 134s that used the middle two cylinders to compress air. Frigging radiator would have cooled a Mack
truck.
I've gone out with a tape measure and the radiator on my 4.9 L diesel truck is smaller then the one in my 2.3L Volvo non turbo. Go figure.

 

You may have to put a pillow block bearing in your steering shaft just forward of the ujoint at the end of the steering colum to support it and eliminate a possible binding issue I had to do this on mine because it was binding there.