shackles

well ive read enough about putting the springs over the axle and i wont do that. so whats the tallest shackles i can get for it. well i guess what i need to know is what is the biggest shackle, leaf, body lift, combo i can have w/out having to get longer lines and longer everything else (as in how many inches total lift) i want to get the most out of it w/out extra money in things besides the springs, blocks, and shaclkes

 

I wouldn’t use shackles that are over 1” longer then stock length, suspension lift: 2.5, body lift: personally I wouldn’t use one but many do 1-3”

There will be many more opinions on suspension/body lifts posted soon.

 

do not want to spend the money on a suspension lift. it is why i left it out and named the cheap ways. dont really care about the ride. its going to be in the mudd and woods alot. but im not putting the springs over axle. im sure thats too high for the shaft thats like 5 inches....how tall of a shackle can i get? and again if anyone knows how many inches i can go up without dammage to the shaft or having to get longer lines, etc.... say i hav a 3 inch body and get 3 inches from the addaleafs and 3 from shackles (can i even buy a shackle thats 3 inches over stock or will i have to make it?!).. is that 2 much?! will i need longer brake lines and other things for that?

 

That adds up to a 4.5 lift and anything over 2.5 you would need to do some mods IMO.

 

where would i get longer brake lines? just the regular auto store that i will be ordering my clutch from and other parts?

 

Most of the off road stores sell long stainless braided lines that will screw right on. Of course, you have to know what size your end fittings are and then order accordingly. I have used them on many spring overs, etc. without problems.

 

the spring overs you have done. do you also mean putting the leafs over the axle? if so what else did you have to lengthen or change?

 

Yeah, spring over the axle. I have done about 10. The best setup I have done is with early stock Wrangler leafs. You will need to weld new brackets on the axle and frame. These can all be ordered online. Use the shackle in the front of the front springs so the large amount of droop wont pull the front driveshaft out. The front hangers can actually be bolted (and welded so stronger) to the front bumper. If the springs are slighlty sagged (as you would assume with older springs) you will have about 4.5 to 5 inches of lift over a stock set-up. I have managed to get away with the stock driveshafts on this, but your best bet is to comb the yards to find a used shaft from some other donor that has a resting length similar to the SOA setup. Don't forget to drop the transfer about an inch or two. Not too much more. It is a pretty cheap way to get a great rockcrawler with a smooth ride. You can run 32x9.50s with very little rub. If done right, the configuration looks pretty clean too. CJ

 

how much pain is it to drop the transfer an inch? can you get away without doing that? how many miles are people getting out of their stock shafts after the spring over? what donor shafts will work? what is the SOA?
i assume you needed longer brake lines with the 5" lift?

 

i was... planing on much bigger than a 32. more questions... i may do the spring over, where do i order the new brackets from that will be welded to the axle? if i do the spring over i definently wont be able to do a addaleaf with the stock shaft right? i believe i have seen 3 1/2" addaleafs.... in your opinions. which is the cheapest route? the spring over (stock shaft and dropping transfer a little) or addaleafs

 

From my experience, there are a ton of cheap ways to get tire clearance if you are good at fab work. The SOA has a lot to change like driveshaft length, pinion angle, and the steering is a pain. I wouldn't do it on anything that was gonna see much pavement. Most of the ones I have done, we have ended up going with wider axles because you add around 5" of lift. Our steering problems are fixed too because we usually go with hydraulic steering. We also cut the front fenders to make them like a flat fender and trim the back as much as needed. I like to keep the body sitting as low as possible and still get big tires under it. With the fullsize axles you don't have much of a problem. Also, as far as a cheap body lift, you can't beat some good ol hockey pucks. I wouldn't stack over two though but this adds two inches. There is still some fab work there too with the clutch linkage and steering shaft. Cheap lifts are never safe for fast driving, especially on the road.

 

well ive come to conclusion that i will not have time to do much for mods in lifting it or have the money. i see that there isint any addaleafs over 2" or shackles, unless there homemade, theres 4 inches. i kno there not supposed to be used at the same time but to many people do it, and ill do a 3 inch body lift just for looks and probbly 33's giving my cj5 the looks of 10" lift i would like to see a picture of a jeep with these lifts together if anyone has one

 

Dropping the transfer is common and easy. Just put a spacer and longer bolts. Many lift kits use a transfer drop bracket. You will need longer brake lines. Not just for lift, but for the large amounts of travel of the wheels that you will gain. SOA is "spring over axle". Miles for shafts? No idea. Hope and pray. Shouldnt be a problem in normal driving. As for donors, grab one of your original u-joints, measure the resting lengths needed after SOA, and hit the yard to find a shaft with the right length and right ends. You will be surprised how many will work. Make sure it is a big yard. I have used Ford truck shafts before and other model Jeep shafts. Scout may work too.

 

I have been lucky here in my area. There is a guy at a local machine shop that can do a good job of lengthening drive shafts for very good prices. All you have to do is get the measurements, cut the ends off the original shaft six inches from the end, and take it to him. We have never had one balanced but he says he can even do that too.

 

Just as a note, I dont reccomend any SOA with anything but very flat soft springs like the Wrangler ones I mentioned. I don't condone shackle lifts, blocks, or stiff lifted leaf springs. I mentioned the 32x9.50s rub because the flex is so extreme with that set-up. Good luck Toyvette81! Unfortunately, there usually is never a cheap, easy, AND safe route.

 

Words everyone should remember. If you do a lot of serious rock crawling or drive on the highway alot, you will find out why.

 

While I am putting out disclaimers, I also don't condone WHEEL SPACERS , extended stock brake lines that are not designed specially for such, welded steering components (unless you really, really, really know what you are doing and understand how welding changes the material properties of metal) or CHROMED supension/steering parts (hydrogen embrittlement). I'm sure I will think of more. If anyone else thinks of anything, please note! As I have also discussed with a few, I do not condone putting seatbelts in a Jeep that does not have a full cage tied to the frame. Is it better to fly out and have a chance of living or certainly get crushed if you flip? If you don't buy my opinion, talk to Howard about his experiences.

 

Re the seat belts, if you drive on the street, you need them - even if you don't have a roll cage. Off the road, IMO you will still benefit in most situations. If you don't like those odds, add a front bar, and shoulder belts.