Tried starting jeep for first time in 15 yrs

I'm wondering if you know what the points are. You write about them in a way that makes me wonder if you're looking at the mechanical advance. I might be reading you wrong, but the points are under that on the round plate in the distributor body. They ride against a cam (bumpy thing in the center) and should open and close as the motor is turned over. The other can like thing with a wire coming out of it is the condensor.

 

Here, this has a diagram. http://home.earthlink.net/~goodspeeds/POINTS.HTM

 

You mentioned that you got a reading of .5V on the + side of the coil. The wire connecting to the + should be 8 - 12 V with the ignition key turned on. I wouldn't bother with the points until you can get that reading. I believe that wire comes directly from the ballast. The wire that feeds the ballast comes directly from the ignition switch.

 

After looking at your pics again your voltage regulator is definately wired wrong. The wire from your ignition switch should run to your ballast resistor, it should then run out of your ballast resistor to the + side of your coil (there should also be a leg here that goes to your starter solenoid to allow the ignition to have a full 12 volts to the ignition while it is being started), there should then be a wire from the - side of your coil to the distributor. The ballast resistor serves the purpose of dropping the voltage to around 8-9 volts while the engine is running normally to protect the points and ignition parts. Your wiring setup is definately not right. Show us a picture of your alternator. I bet its a modern style designed with an internal regulator.

You really need to let someone know where you live (fill out your profile) as there may be someone within a few miles that can help you get this thing running.

 

First off, I love all the sites you are sending me about ignition. They all go straight to my favorites and I know so much more about points, condensors, coils, etc. then I did say 36 hours ago. Soon I'll be running an ignition shop. lol. I thought the points were that rusted thing on top. but now looking at the pictures, the plastic? thing underneath is shaped more like the points I've been seeing in diagrams. I think your absolutly right, I don't know what I'm talking about. how does that rusted unit on top come off? I see no screws or anything. So that round rusted thing is the mechanical advance, huh? I was confused as to how the metal was all attached, but somehow opened and closed the ground, made no sense to me? And I'm not getting innacurate readings because I am grounding to the battery right? Its all the same, everything goes to ground, it made sense to me, just wondering why the ballast yielded 12 volts coming out instead of 9.

And yes, the wire going to the coil comes directly from the ballast, but going to the ballast comes from the voltage regulator, which dosn't seem to be regulating voltage (12v in 12v out). Setup is like this, and you can see in my picture of the firewall. Wire goes from switch to right side of voltage regulator, comes out of left side of voltage regulator and goes to left side of ballast. comes out right side of ballast and goes to coil with a black wire. where it goes to the coil I assume its suppose to be positive, even tho the other wire coming off is red. Not the first time, my battery leads are positive black, ground red. Ok, i'm out to investigate my number on problem, I wasn't looking at the actual points. What an idot, thanks for the websites guys. oh, and can someone give me a clear, beginners explanation to a Pertronix. From what I herd, it sounds like they are 75 bucks, way more reliable and last a hell of a lot longer. Do they just drop right in? Off to investigate. I believe my coil is a problem. Give me feedback guys

 

You have a Delco distributor, you don't take the advance unit off to adjust the points. There should be a place on the side where you can adjust them. If you stick the cap back on there is a window on the side where the points should be adjusted either thru this window or in the general area with the cap off.

The pertonixs unit only fits the Delco distributor, there was also a Prestolite unit on some of these motors.
You remove the distributor and disassemble the breaker point plate and put the Pertonixs unit on and it makes it an electronic unit with no points or dwell to set.

 

That round rusted thing should simply pull off from the top of the cam.

 

It won't just pull off. I would love to get it off tho. I think most of my problem is corroded connections. I only get clear readings if I go from the actual wire to the negative terminal on the battery. If I use the connector on the wire, it won't give me a clear reading at all. i checked the coil again and I have 12 volts on both posts, but only if I test to the wire, not the nut or post. The ballast is putting 12 volts in and 12 out. sounds like its not doing its job. I pulled off the connectors and just spliced the wires together, by passing the ballast. I got a nice clean reading of 12 volts there.Once again, I tested the coil and get 12 volts on both post but only going from the WIRE to the NEGATIVE TERMINAL on battery. I think it should all be re-wired. man, I think I am gonna have to give up for a couple days. I'm getting worn out and getting absolutly nothing else done. Thanks guys for all your input

 

Mcruff is right, fill out a profile (if you haven't) and lets see if we can get a local there to help you out. I advise, if others have not, to look into a Hayes of Chilton book- All of the writing here will likely be no better than one of these books. We do realize that you are trying your heart out and thus we are willing to help. Keep up the good work!

 

Good point. Sometimes Chilton's or Hayes can leave a lot to be desired.

MM