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I'm all over the road

Discussion in 'Early CJ5 and CJ6 Tech' started by huntnjeep, Aug 15, 2005.

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  1. Aug 15, 2005
    huntnjeep

    huntnjeep New Member

    Everett WA
    Joined:
    Aug 9, 2005
    Messages:
    33
    Hi everyone,

    How can I reduce my steering drift?

    This is a picture of the components on my 68 CJ5. It still has the factory installed Ross manual steering unit and what I believe is a 4" suspension lift courtesy of the previous owner. I know that manual-steer vehicles are prone to wandering, however this particular Jeep develops a real vicious wander at speeds of 45 mph and up :shock: .

    Other than a complete system swap/upgrade, what options do I have?

    I was thinking about building a 2" or 3" spacer to lower the position of the bell crank, assuming that things would improve if the tie rods were parallel to the axle...Or... just taking the bell crank to a fab shop and having them extend and lower the pitman arm :? What else could I do?

    I have no experience working with steering geometry or the Ross Cam lever style of steering, any advice is greatly appreciated.

    Allan
     
    huntnjeep, Aug 15, 2005
    #1
  2. Aug 15, 2005
    Hawk62cj5

    Hawk62cj5 Captain of OldSchool

    Brodnax Va.
    Joined:
    Oct 28, 2004
    Messages:
    694
    How does your bell crank feel , mine wonders at high speed and I have found that was my problem. That would be one of the first things I check along with the drag link. HTH
     
    Hawk62cj5, Aug 15, 2005
    #2
  3. Aug 15, 2005
    panzer

    panzer Super Mod Staff Member

    Columbus, OH
    Joined:
    Dec 9, 2003
    Messages:
    1,245
    panzer, Aug 15, 2005
    #3
  4. Aug 15, 2005
    Mudweiserjeep

    Mudweiserjeep JEEP: Bouncy and Fun

    tipp city, ohio
    Joined:
    Jun 17, 2004
    Messages:
    718
    Don't forget to check the tie rod ends.
     
    Mudweiserjeep, Aug 15, 2005
    #4
  5. Aug 15, 2005
    gte636p

    gte636p Member

    smyrna, Ga
    Joined:
    Sep 23, 2002
    Messages:
    492
    gte636p, Aug 15, 2005
    #5
  6. Aug 15, 2005
    Warloch

    Warloch Did you say Flattie??? Staff Member

    Falcon, CO
    Joined:
    Mar 4, 2003
    Messages:
    5,470
    Since nobody has stated it... My last problem with high speed wonder was with incorrect toe-in...

    If I would have checked that first I would have saved myself a couple weeks this spring. Oh well, I can do something else this fall instead :rofl:
     
    Warloch, Aug 15, 2005
    #6
  7. Aug 15, 2005
    Boyink

    Boyink Super Moderator Staff Member

    Tulsa, OK
    Joined:
    Sep 20, 2002
    Messages:
    6,197
    IMHO I'd convert to a one-pc tie rod, and go through the rest of the system replace TRE's, rebuild the knuckles and rebuild the Ross box.
     
    Boyink, Aug 15, 2005
    #7
  8. Aug 15, 2005
    gscj5

    gscj5 H2 Recovery Team

    Kettering, Ohio
    Joined:
    Sep 22, 2002
    Messages:
    339
    I have about the same lift on my 64, with my tie rods at about the same angle. I replaced my bell crank, also got a bell crank repair kit from 4wd hardware which includes a new bolt that goes through the bell crank. Took care of all my wander. It was so bad I would hit a rut and I would go in the other lane ...it was scary. :shock:
     
    gscj5, Aug 15, 2005
    #8
  9. Aug 16, 2005
    lynn

    lynn Time machine / Early CJ5 HR Rep Staff Member

    Huntingdon PA
    Joined:
    Sep 20, 2002
    Messages:
    3,437
    Keep in mind that a 4" suspension lift will change the caster angle. The PO may not have known to address this. Be sure your caster angle is in spec before chasing other components. Caster angle can be changed by adding steel degree shims between the spring pack and the perch.
    I had to add 5-degree shims to keep my rig driveable above 30 mph after doing a D30 swap... (2.5" lift)
     
    lynn, Aug 16, 2005
    #9
  10. Aug 16, 2005
    huntnjeep

    huntnjeep New Member

    Everett WA
    Joined:
    Aug 9, 2005
    Messages:
    33
    Okay, so I reached under the front end and tried to wiggle the bellcrank and tie rods, everything seems to be pretty solid, practically no play at all.

    Looks like my only option is to start saving up for a one-piece tie rod conversion kit.
     
    huntnjeep, Aug 16, 2005
    #10
  11. Aug 16, 2005
    tgregg

    tgregg Member

    Oak Hills, CA...
    Joined:
    Apr 14, 2005
    Messages:
    529
    Is the two piece tie rod shown in the picture the stock set up? My 69 has a one piece with a single arm from the bellcrank to the passenger side.
    I'm wondering if a PO changed it?
     
    tgregg, Aug 16, 2005
    #11
  12. Aug 16, 2005
    Boyink

    Boyink Super Moderator Staff Member

    Tulsa, OK
    Joined:
    Sep 20, 2002
    Messages:
    6,197
    This is not that expensive, if you're going to stick with the Ross box. You only need buy the "long" tie rod, and it's a good idea to get new tie rod ends while you're at it. You can re-use an existing tie rod as the drag link.

    The long rod is a Commando piece, if you can't find it AA has them. Just don't buy the TRE's at AA, get them at a place like Walcks.

    IIRC even buying the AA long tie rod (which I did) it was still =< $100.
     
    Boyink, Aug 16, 2005
    #12
  13. Aug 16, 2005
    John A. Shows

    John A. Shows Comic Relief

    Mendenhall...
    Joined:
    Sep 24, 2002
    Messages:
    938
    I had the one piece on my 69 and it worked fine. Straight @ highway speeds. Course I had only about 2" of lift and was running 31" tires too.

    I'm told that most tires over 33" tall tend to wander even with the best steering linkage set up. I know there'd be many exceptions to this but this is just what I was told.
     
    John A. Shows, Aug 16, 2005
    #13
  14. Aug 16, 2005
    huntnjeep

    huntnjeep New Member

    Everett WA
    Joined:
    Aug 9, 2005
    Messages:
    33
    Ah! Thanks for the tip Boyink, I didn't even think about using one of the existing rods, that will make this so much easier. What year of Commando would I need to get the long rod from?

    I'm assuming that I will still need to drill out the passenger side and use a grade 8 bolt similar to what was done in this article:
    http://www.earlycj5.com/tech/steering/bumpSteer_files/bump_steer.shtml
     
    huntnjeep, Aug 16, 2005
    #14
  15. Aug 16, 2005
    gscj5

    gscj5 H2 Recovery Team

    Kettering, Ohio
    Joined:
    Sep 22, 2002
    Messages:
    339
    I have been sitting here for a half an hour thinking who the heck AA is and I can't come up with it. Boyink can u enlighten me :?
     
    gscj5, Aug 16, 2005
    #15
  16. Aug 16, 2005
    jd7

    jd7 Sponsor

    Nacogdoches,Texas
    Joined:
    Mar 30, 2004
    Messages:
    1,745
    advanced adapters
     
    jd7, Aug 16, 2005
    #16
  17. Aug 16, 2005
    gscj5

    gscj5 H2 Recovery Team

    Kettering, Ohio
    Joined:
    Sep 22, 2002
    Messages:
    339
    Duh...thanks David R)
     
    gscj5, Aug 16, 2005
    #17
  18. Aug 16, 2005
    Boyink

    Boyink Super Moderator Staff Member

    Tulsa, OK
    Joined:
    Sep 20, 2002
    Messages:
    6,197
    If you're just swapping to the one pc rod with original style tie rod ends you won't need to drill anything. IIRC, you're looking for the late 60's early 70's V6 equipped Commando. I couldn't source one here so just paid the $$ to AA.
     
    Boyink, Aug 16, 2005
    #18
  19. Aug 16, 2005
    gscj5

    gscj5 H2 Recovery Team

    Kettering, Ohio
    Joined:
    Sep 22, 2002
    Messages:
    339
    22 1/2 or 35 1/2 or part number thanks
     
    gscj5, Aug 16, 2005
    #19
  20. Aug 16, 2005
    Boyink

    Boyink Super Moderator Staff Member

    Tulsa, OK
    Joined:
    Sep 20, 2002
    Messages:
    6,197
    The one I have measures out to 34 7/8".
     
    Boyink, Aug 16, 2005
    #20
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