1963 Dodge Dart !!! Wahoo!

At Dallas airport for a layover

I wondering about the 4cyl as they’re in quite a few z3’s. There are quite a few variations.

2000 z3 curb wt. —. . 3089 lbs
1963 dodge dart curb wt. 2700lbs slant 6 is 475lbs

 

Kyle, don't be so harsh. I know of a gentleman who lives in Northern California who owns a red 1968 AMX car that fits that description to a tee. The car may have been scary fast for it's era and probably was. With the modern day engineering and options presently beening applied to the car, it will reclaim that description allowing the owner in another 35 to 40 years, to fondly remember how scary fast it was.

 

Yes, I’m excited and nervous, I think the wheel width is a number I need to be sure it will look right. When we get home next week, think I’ll start looking for a car

 

BMW engines:
M44 318ti 95.5kg/210lbs
M52B28 Z3 ONLY Aluminum block 117kg/258lbs
M52TUB28 Z3, E46 etc. Aluminum block 127kg/280lbs
M54B30 Z3, E46 etc. Aluminum block 130.5kg/288lbs
M52B28 E36, E39 etc. Iron block 135kg/298lbs
M50TUB25 E36, E34 etc. Iron Block 135kg/298lbs
More info
https://www.bimmerforums.com/2009/08/engine-faq/

One of the things I like about the Z car is it's heavy feel. Very solid and planted.

 

Needs more Turbo.

 

We've been back a couple day from Buffalo, those trips wear me out! No place like home!

I have spent a great deal of time looking at BMWs of all kinds ('98 - 2002) for the prefer the
6 cyl, manual trans, the Z3, but any that might have what I'd want, you know, the entire car. I just need to find one to measure the darned outside the wheels! grr

Problem: I need it to be dirt cheap (granted the right width), the entire car(doner) regarding the front and rear complete subframes to make sure they'll work(with mods of course), I wouldn't expect them to just bolt up. I suppose if it were like a thousand bucks, then the subframes just wouldn't work, wouldn't bother me so much as to spend 6k and have negative implications.

I find this to be peculiar in that the frame is at such a degree/incline? Seems like that could pose a problem


Could a coil over shock work where the shock goes?





my ad on FB to sell my original engine from the bronco~ not trying to sell here, just showing the engine running Can't post videos but can from FB marketplace! lol
https://www.facebook.com/marketplac...wse_serp:e522d337-cd39-4f84-b7d3-23910c91ec42

 

That is a pretty healthy engine. You should ask more for it.

 

The Z3 shares much of it's suspension and drivetrain with the E36. They are much more plentiful and are probably cheaper to boot.

 

Thanks, I'll look at those~
sorry for not having been very active, it's been 100+ in my garage, just can't handle that heat!

 

I'm still alive~ I've been googling and shopping FB for pics, possible cheap doners.

If I were to utilize the front subframe/suspension/rack, etc. I'm discombobulated with what to do with the mcpherson strut, it's so crucial for camber,caster. There's no way to connect say an upper control arm.



This is the "frame" of a z3. a farfetched idea was to cut the entire front section and scab it onto my dodge dart~ I did say farfetched? If I have a doner car, I can strip it to toy with the idea.





Just a goal picture so pretty~!



Just posting this pic for future reference~ nothing here, move along


Actually not much going on here~ had an injection to my L4-L5 lumbar supraspinous ligament a few days ago~ a 30 year old injury which haunts me~ just waiting for the injection to do something miraculous

 

If the width is similar, a cowl cut from a BMW adapted the the Dart probably makes the most sense.

 

meaning don't do a front clip transplant, just the cowl so I can use the struts?

 

I mean get the BMW clip cut off at the cowl.
This should give you plenty of material to work with.
Then trim the BMW front clip down to minimal… rails and strut towers.
Position the trimmed up BMW clip under the Dart and start raising it up, notching the frame/ structure of the Dart to clear the BMW suspension as you go up.
If you brace the fender troughs, inner fenders and core support they should stay in place.

 

Wow, I can visualize that! Thank you!

 

I had joined a BMW forum a while back and never got any replies, just wasn't getting the messages.
below are individuals making suggestions on swaps n such. They talk about the engine/trans, but didn't elaborate on the chassis I started another post on there, but I thought a Z3 wasn't absolutley necessary.

https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/...ine-in-my-project-car&p=30889941#post30889941

1) The stock DME requires a lot of chassis signals that would require a lot of work to add to the car. Some engines can be run on the factory DME with minimal chassis inputs but that's not a particularly easy route to take. Standalone management simplifies the swap process when in a non BMW chassis.

2) You don’t need a Z3 specifically to get a six cylinder M/S5X engine and transmission.
Any BMW 3 series - 325/323/328/M3 from 1992-1999 can be your donor.

325/323 - a E36 325 will get you an M50 OBD1 2.5L or an E36 323 a M52 OBDII 2.5L with a Getrag 5-speed.

E36 328 will get you a M52 OBDII 2.8L will get you a more robust ZF 5-speed

E36 M3 will get you S50 OBD1 3.0L or a S52US OBDII 3.2L with a ZF 5-speed
Last edited by bluptgm3; 06-08-2023 at 01:53 PM.

3) An M50 or S50 may be easier to deal with, as they had OBDI for engine management, which may be easier for you to deal with than OBDII.

The M50 had a 2.5L displacement, while the S50 is based on the M50, but with the displacement bumped to 3.0L.

The M50 engine came in E36 3-Series cars (325i) from 1992-1995, as well as E34 5-Series cars (525i) from 1990-1994. So, lots of models to pull from. The S50 was only available in the 1995 E36 M3.

4) M52tu all the way. I’m also swapping one into my 83’ Mitsubishi Starion, Very easy swap and can be done dirt CHEAP if you look around. I got my complete swap for $280 out of a rear wrecked e46 with only 118k on the clock on marketplace. If you’re not tracking the car, no need to waste an extra 2-3k on anything other. But If you’re gonna spend the money just upgrade the internals, slap a big turbo in there with it and blow the doors off all the M/// series motors all day ��

 

just playing around, looking at beemers

https://www.facebook.com/marketplac...wse_serp:043679b2-e98a-4d0e-b178-21bc882279a8

this is a bmw engine out of a '94, still looks neat!

 

I can't tell you how much time I've spent looking at Facebook BMW potentials!

I decided to take a little time and think about the dash. I was going to copy the Hemi Dart, but apparently that person has a different has another dash. Most would say, keep the original, eh, nay~ got to be different right?



*******************************************************************************
The next three pics are not mine, they're from that Dart Hemi build~ the person is crazy skilled and I just wish I had half his imagination! sigh





********************************************************************************
Well, now for my first attempt in just rough ideas.


haha, kind of plain Jane (dne') right now, still a radio, AC controls, headlight, wiper, ignition, etc.


Any ideas what to make it out of, other than wood?


If I ever get an entire bmw, I was thinking to see about using a console that it may come with, and there the radio or AC controls could go.

oh crap, steaks tonight, I'll be back

 

I've had a little time to play with my old instrumentation. Thought maybe to maintain some originality by dissecting the original, install a 4" speedhut GPS speedometer with integrated tach. Then 3 -4 or 4 oil, water, volt, meters.
What chall think? vs the other idea?



This speedo is in my TR6, I didn't know they made a speedo which only goes to 100mph, I'd have that, not 160mph!

 

Took the idea a step further, I have 1/8 or 3/16 aluminum sheets, cuts easily on my Craftsman bandsaw, If I screw this one up, I can make more! lol

Finding a dash piece for the left where the pushbuttons panel would go, without the pushbutton holes may be a challenge, but I think with the right colors including the metal dash would look pretty good.


I put one gauge in, not the one I'll be using, just wanted to see something real!


some models have a column shifter(automatics) and don't have the push button panel~ plenty of time. However, I was talking to Gary about a 3d printer, might be a fun hobby and if I could get my hands on a pristine piece, I could make one!


This is a googled picture just showing the piece without the pushbutton thing

 

I am pretty sure you can fill that push button hole . whats next