Yet Another 1965 Cj5 Build

Thanks everyone for the inputs. I am thinking it’s head gaskets because of where I am seeing the coolant seeping.

The engine was professionally rebuilt. I am assuming they honed everything make sure it mated correctly. My first call tomorrow morning will be to the engine shop.

I don’t have a history of the engine. The guy I bought it from already had it out of his Jeep and told me that he hadn’t had it running or tried because he wanted to drop a big block Chevy in his. Talking to the builders when I had it done, they said that it looked “good.” Pending what they say, I will make my next move.

 

Well, I have an update and things seem to be trending in the right direction. The shop confirmed, bad head gaskets. They failed to compress correctly under torque and did not seal against the block. The shop talked to some Buick folks and got different gaskets, rebuilt the top end, and got it back to me in about 10 days at no cost to me other than the hassle. Overall, I am still very happy with their customer service and they really want to make this right for me.

In the mean time, I started on my twin stick conversion. I opted to get some steel and make a bracket to hold the twin sticks from the D18 off of my F134 driveline.

I started by measuring the angles and cutting cardboard to the “correct” location from the F134 set-up.

I then cut and bent some steel in a fork shape that would eventually hold the rod/pin that goes through the center of the sticks.

Next, I notched the high/lo and in/out pushrods to match the rods on my earlier style D18 and test fit the rods. Once I was comfortable with the setting, I started welding my fork-bracket.

Next you have the final test fit. I took the pin and drilled two small holes that I am going to use as anchor points with safety wire the pin to the bracket in order to prevent the pin from backing out.

After all that, I mated the trans and transfer case back to the engine. Last time it took me several attempts, several hours, cursing, and walking away to get the input shaft to slide in. This time, it took about ten minutes and a little jiggling. Funny how some things go super easy and other times it makes you want to thrown you tools on the ground. Must have got the alignment near perfect this time.

And lastly, I dropped the whole driveline back into the Jeep, hopefully for the last time. I am going to hook up all of the cooling lines and hoses first and test with water before I put all of the accessories on. I still have to reinstall the clutch, transmission crossmember, and exhaust. And, I am still waiting on my Saturn overdrive to come in the mail. It’s been on order for six weeks, so hopefully soon! Thanks for looking!

 

I may have missed it earlier but tell us about the speedometer cable. Is that an extension or some digital sender thingy? I’m about tired of “keeping things stock” on my speedometer.

 

No, I don’t think I mentioned it here in my build thread. I run Dakota Digital gauges. The electronic gauges require a special plug extension in order to connect to the digital speedometer cable and navigate around the crossmember under the Jeep. The extension is about 10” and makes it all real easy. I bought both from summit a little over a year ago. It’s gone up in price by over $200 now, but before I did the swap I really liked it. The Dakota Digital system also allows for the GPS speedometer, which is where I will eventually go.

I will crawl on up in there and take some pictures of the sending unit if you would like?

 

Well, just a couple of quick updates. I installed the shifter tower for the T14 yesterday. I had to cut some floor for clearance at the back since the T14 is longer than the T90. And, I had to cut a little towards the passenger to clear my custom twin stick setup.

Either way, I think it will all come out okay in the wash by the time I finish. Here is the shift tower installed. Please disregard the tangle of wires. Believe it or not, I have them all organized in bundles as required. I still have to wire the reverse lights. After that, I will tackle the dash install. I have yet to buff the instrument panel, so I will do that tonight or tomorrow and get everything in its proper place.

 

Worked a bit on the instrument panel today. Hung, installed, and started reconnecting all of the wires. I still have quite a few more things to do, but I have power to the kick panel, wiper motors (12V conversion), horn and ignition switch. I also mounted the D18 shifters. I am not content with the play in sticks now that they are installed. I will be figuring out a slightly better way to ensure the sticks move fluidly without wobbling around.

 

Although these are for the MB/GPW jeeps, maybe something like these springs will remedy the problem.

MB GPW , CJ2a, CJ3a, M38, Lever spring -A970 Vintagejeeps RFJP G503 MB GPW Part A970 Jeep

 

So, I actually bought two of these a while back when I was considering rebuilding my hurricane driveline with twin sticks prior to acquiring my dauntless setup with single stick for the swap. Might be worth digging around my boxes of parts to locate them and see if I can adapt them for the custom setup. Thanks for the recommendation.

 

I have been eyeballing some of this type of washer for my setup. I am not sure if these would work but an idea.

https://www.mcmaster.com/products/standard-washers/washers-4/material~plastic/

 

I had actually been looking at plastic washers for the metal-metal contact areas as well. I had a plastic clutch bushing from my Mustang that was a close fit, but ultimately settled against it because they wear out so quickly. I opted for greasing the parts instead. We shall see how it all works out. The good thing is, the way that I built the mount makes it extremely easy to remove, tinker with, and put back again. So, it really isn’t too frustrating to pull out and try things with.

 

Another idea is to use a spring washer to keep tension on the shifters. McMaster-Carr has several styles to choose from. Something like this may work:

spring washers | McMaster-Carr

 

The nylon washers should hold up pretty good and the spring washers are a good idea also. Maybe a combination of both would work.

 

(I apologize ahead of time for a long post without pictures)

Well everyone, I am going to shift gears away from the twin stick questions - thank you vtxtasy and 45es on your suggestions. I am trying to figure out how to incorporate either of the plastic or spring washers. I did find the replacement lever springs that I had ordered a while back. I am sitting on that part of the project for the next week or so to think things over.

On a separate note, we have ignition! I started the dauntless rebuilt engine last night and let it run for about 15 minutes to break in the cam. A few things that I now have questions on…

First, my starting procedure. I did lubricate the oil pump with petroleum jelly as noted in the FSM and countless times on this forum. I removed the valve covers and spun the oil pump drive with a drill and got oil up top on both drivers and passenger side rockers.

Then, I filled the carburetor bowls with fuel instead of pouring it down the intake. I opted to not have a backfire out of the carb on start.

I set initial timing to 5* with the #1 on compression BTC and then set the distributor in the block. I unplugged the vacuum line and used a golf tee to plug the advance to the carburetor (I did not plug the vacuum at the distributor). I have a Delco Distributor with the pertronix upgrade on it and pertronix coil. I had the timing light ready to go as well.

I also plugged the A.I.R. ports since I am not using that system.

Lastly, I opened the radiator cap and turned the heater on high to let the coolant cycle and bleed the system once it got to temp.

Then I finally pushed the clutch to the floor and cranked it (had my wife there with a flashlight and a fire extinguisher watching the fuel lines for leaks under pressure - just in case). The dauntless kicked to life on maybe the second or third turn. It immediately went to about 2000 RPM fast idle. I left it there for cam break in purposes.

Some things that concerned me. Exhaust leaks…I am running a hand-me-down set of Hedman fender wells and I think they have a leak.

Second, there is a light tap coming from the number five cylinder area. I have read that many people have a tap with the dauntless that goes away after about 15 minutes of running the engine at temperature. Not sure if this will be the case. I will be pulling the valve cover again to ensure it’s lubricated before running it again.

Next, I need to adjust the carburetor. I am running a QFT 450 VS and it never backed down to idle speed, just sat at around 2000 RPM, even after the 10-15 minute cam break-in period. I will break out the manual again and see if I missed a step for initial start up adjustments.

And my last comment/question. After shutting the engine down, I got two loud afterfire bangs out of the exhaust; one out of each bank. I am assuming that the carb is too rich and shooting fuel down the headers after the key is off. Anyone have other thoughts on what could be causing the afterfire? Hopefully a carb adjustment will quiet that down.

Regardless - huge step in the right direction last night. Official kicked the tires and lit the fires. Now on to the adjustments to get it running right.

 

Good morning! It’s been a minute since I posted. Between work and splitting time with my other project, progress on the CJ has been at idle for a minute or two.

But, I have done some things. After running my engine, my old alternator started smoking - obviously not good. I got a rebuilt one and replaced it. I also didn’t like how hot the headers were, so I splurged and got ceramic coated headers. I also decided to move the exhaust around so I didn’t have my mufflers right underneath the seats. The passenger header is pictured below.

I have also been working on the drive shafts. I cleaned, sanded and painted them. I ordered some new u-joints which I still need to install, and then I am going grease everything and install the shafts.

I also went ahead and installed my fan shroud. I am using and electric fan due to clearance issues that I had with my transplant dauntless, but I think the shroud should still help channel the air through the radiator.

I am still waiting on my rebuilt overdrive to come and still working on finishing the paint on the hood and fenders before I install everything. I hope to make some progress over the long weekend coming up. Thanks for looking!

 

Seeing those beautiful headers makes me want to replace my old vintage Eagle fenderwell headers! Your Dauntless sure is nice!!

 

I appreciate the comment. It’s been a long work in progress, and it sure feels close to being a driving project again. I had the dauntless rebuilt, and I was able to paint it while it was out. Maybe I am just being hard on myself, but I only see the flaws when I am standing next to it. The pictures sure make it look great though

 

Been a fantastic weekend. Happy Fathers Day to all the dads out there. I can certainly thank mine for my interest in cars. Anywho…

Here is a list of things accomplished this weekend on the backyard CJ5:
- Windshield Glass Installed
- New u-joints installed in both prop shafts, rear shaft installed in the Jeep
- Two longer u-bolts installed on the right rear axle to accommodate a leveling block - yes I am trying to reduce the infamous CJ lean.
- Hood and Fenders sanded with 2000, 3,000, and 5000 - now ready for polishing with the rotary gun
- Hood, fenders, and windshield frame installed
- Dual exhaust welded and installed
- Twin stick conversion mechanically complete (I still have some work to make it cosmetically what I want)
- Idled the Jeep and put it in both reverse and first. It rolled! Big step for me.

Below are my pictures from this weekend. Don’t mind my kids climbing all over it. My six year old says that the Jeep is her’s when I die…hopefully that won’t be for a minute

Thanks for looking!

 

Gotta keep the kids involved, they will remember the look, sound and smell of the jeep forever. As well as their good times with you.

 

Getting close!!!!

 

Another good weekend in the books. I pulled the entire wiring harness and went back through it, checking connections and cleaning up the routing. Then I reinstalled it with and checked all of my he harness functions (lights, ignition, electric fan, windshield wipers, etc,). Also, painted and installed the roll bar…

Installed the NOS windshield/hood latch and hood u-bolt to hold the hood when up…

And then started measuring for the footman’s loops for the windshield hold-down strap when the windshield is stowed forward. I haven’t started drilling for those yet. Also, I buffed and polished the hood and fenders.

Finally, not pictured, I installed a new oil seal and output flange for the front prop shaft of the transfer case. I have some adjustments to do before I hit the road. I need to install the front drive shaft and make sure the clutch travel and grab are where I want it.

I have new inner oil seals for the front axles, as well as the knuckle seals and am considering pulling it all apart to replace, but part of me wants to drive the Jeep a bit before I dive into the front axel. For reference, I am getting some oil dripping from the axles near the knuckle, so I think the inner seals are probably bad. One more week to work on it before I head out for some vacation. I am reluctant to start anything that I can’t finish before we depart.