Yet Another 1965 Cj5 Build

So, it was suggested that I start a "build" thread after my intro thread. Here it is. I have a 1965 CJ5 that is completely modified. As with both of my classic car builds (also have a 1965 mustang), I like to keep them looking fairly stock to the untrained eye, but when you dig into it, clearly not original.

My '65 CJ5 originally started as a 134ci Hurricane with Dana 18 and T90 transmission. The PO had added an aftermarket under-dash heater, 12V alternator, and somewhere along the lines, it was rattle canned a sunburst blue over the original naval blue from the factor. The frame had a lot of surface rust and the rubber mounts for the body, engine, and trans/transfer case were shot. It had an after market solex carb that burned way too rich, rubber fuel lines from the tank, and a single bowl master cylinder and brake lines that hung about 8 inches below the frame. Someone had installed an axle from a CJ with front discs, so that was a plus.

Here are the updates that I have finished/started:

-Repainted (twice). First with Toyota's quicksand tan - which is in my profile picture. Then, I repainted it a Ford Bronco Area 51, which is a blue. I liked both colors, but I really like the blue.
-Bought a Dauntless V6 out of a 1971 CJ5 with a D18 and T14. Had the engine professionally rebuilt and bought a remanned T14. I replaced the bearings, seals and gaskets on the D18 myself.
-Welded in NOVAK's MM31 engine mount kit. The guy I bought the drive train from (to include drive shafts) threw in a pair of Hedman Headers.
-New clutch kit from Rock Auto. New clutch pedal linkage from Kaiser Willys (and a hundred other little random parts in the last two years).
-450cfm QF 4BBL carburetor mated to the offenhauser aftermarket aluminum intake manifold
-Installed a painless performance 12V/15 circuit wiring harness with an aftermarket switch panel for all of my future accessories.
-Manual dual bowl master cylinder, and complete stainless steel brake lines. Replaced the discs, calipers, and pads. I still have to rebuild the rear drums...
-Installed reverse lights, 1969 fenders with turn signal markers
-replaced all of the fuel lines, including fabrication of a vacuum return line to the under seat gas tank to allow proper venting. I am told that many folks plug the dauntless return line at the fuel pump and don't have any issues. I figured that it was better safe than sorry...especially if I end up needing a return line for a rear tank install in the future.
-Replaced the broken under-dash heater with another aftermarket heater from JEGS. I opted to run custom hoses from the water pump and manifold through brass bulkhead fittings at the firewall behind the heater under the dash. I think it looks a heck of a lot cleaner now.
-Bought a couple of Thrush mufflers and installed them. Still have to complete the pipes with rear dumps (I had a side dump on my Hurricane...wreaked of exhaust every time I got done driving it).

In the immediate future:
-Looking for a Saturn overdrive.
-Need to buy and install throttle pedal and cable linkage.
-Need to fire the engine for the first time since rebuild.
-Looking for a rear seat for the kiddos.
-put the body back together since repaint. Still have to finish sanding and buffing though. And paint the windshield. For some reason I had left it out when I did the rest of the vehicle…smh.

I have a ton of pictures in my introduction forum thread if interested. I will post more here as I go.
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Here are some photos from the build so far...

 

Do you still have the original fenders without the side marker lights? If so, I'm interested.

 

I don’t, sorry. They had extensive rust damage, dents and dings. More than well used.

 

Wow! You've been very busy! Looks so good!

 

Thx.

 

Do you still have the f head engine?
Is it for sale?
Steve

 

I do…it’s mostly apart. Was leaking oil pretty bad, pressure would fluctuate between 15-45 PSI as I would drive it, generally starting at 45 PSI and falling as I drove longer. I have it on the stand and its parts set aside as a future project if I ever get a second CJ that needs an engine. Send me a PM and I would be happy to consider it if the conditions are right.

 

Started reassembling the Jeep today. Did a bunch of color sanding too. I decided to buff it after I reassemble everything. Mounted the fenders to the grill.

 

Been in a lull waiting for some parts, but I came up with a unique way to construct a battery tie-down. I took a canvas strap and clasp along with some leather making rivets and made an adjustable strap.

 

Well, I finally got some parts in yesterday. I received my T14 transmission insulator and stabilizer bushing, and assorted clutch bellcrank and linkage pieces. And, the weather was just too nice to waste anytime inside today. Can’t beat 65 and sunny.

Below are the finished images of the T14 and crossmember. I had to modify the crossmember itself slightly since it was originally a T90 for the old 134. I also had to drill new holes about an inch back of the original holes in the frame to account for the longer drive train.

Once that was done, I was able to find exactly where my clutch bell crank would mount, again, about an inch further back. I packed the bell crank full of grease and then the new parts before squeezing it into place. Below is the crank after I packed it and prepped it for install and then the final linkage from the rear.

 

Got my plug wires and correct plug wire terminals today and finished my spark plug routing tonight. I already completed a distributor upgrade to Pertronix Coil and electronic ignition. One more thing to check off the list!

 

Looking good! Almost a a runner.

 

Almost! I still have to get a starter, main gear (with overdrive), drive shafts, gas pedal and throttle linkage…and a litany of other things. But, the list to start it is certainly getting smaller.

 

WOOOOOOOOOW! Thats beautiful!

 

Well, it’s been a minute since I posted last. I have been traveling for work and will be out of the country again starting this weekend, so I am anxious to get something done in the short time I have at the house this week between trips.

I went and got some PCV hoses and mocked up the lengths and routing. I have yet to get clamps and secure everything, but I am pretty sure I like where the hoses are…let me know what you think.

 

I have been traveling a lot over the past month and haven’t been in the garage routinely. With that said, the weather was great yesterday and I was able to get some stuff done. The results - not so good.

I finished my throttle linkage. I got a universal pedal, ran the cable and installed the pedal. It came out pretty well.

I am getting (or was getting) super close to firing my rebuilt dauntless swapped from a 1971 CJ5. I filled it full of oil, starting with 3 quarts, marking the generic dipstick, and then adding a fourth and fifth quart with file marks on the dipstick for reference.

I then added coolant to the new radiator and started watching. I was expecting some leaks from the fittings here and there, and I sure enough I had a couple. Simple adjustments and tightening fixed them. But here is where it really went downhill…

I started noticing fluid dripping on the floor. I grabbed my light, crawled underneath, and found antifreeze seeping from the base of the cylinder heads on both sides. Again, this is a brand new rebuild, never fired.

Lesson 1 - use distilled water to test for leaks. I wasted a ton of antifreeze.

I waited a couple hours to see how bad the leaks were…I ended up with several quarts of antifreeze on the ground in my drip pain. So, I decided to drain the oil. I was hoping that the leaks were strictly from the edge of the gasket to the floor and not internal…and the verdict? It’s in the oil - insert several four letter words.

Well, the only option I see is to pull the engine and take it back to the shop. I already started removing the accessories. Before I go and detach the bell and transmission and pull this thing out, does anyone have any suggestions on what I could try first to confirm the head gasket is bad or worse, a warped or cracked cylinder head/block on both sides? When I pulled everything apart the first time, I didn’t see any cracks in either the heads or the block. Any input would be greatly appreciated.

 

Before pulling motor I would pull heads and look at the block and heads to see if there is anything obvious. Clean everything up put on new head gaskets and make sure you torque everything down to spec in the right sequence. Change oil and refill with coolant and see if you still have leaks.

 

Yikes! I learned my lesson about even wasting distilled water when i was doing a coolant flush. After draining, flushing, chemical cleaning, rinsing rinsing etc....... I burned through about 16 gallons of distilled water waiting for the rinse to finally come out clean and rust free. Finally I decided to stop wasting my expensive water and just run a hose through it until it ran clear and then do a final rinse with distilled before coolant. Lesson learned.

Did you hone the mating surfaces on the heads before rebuilding? Was the engine known for coolant leaks before the rebuild?

 

Pull your spark plugs and check for water. Adapt an air pressure line to the lower hose inlet and cap the outlet. Pressurize to 10-15lbs and
listen for leaks. Another area where the water and oil can exchange is the timing cover. This appears to be a large leak as there is so much
water infiltration with no pressure. Are you sure it has head gaskets?