T Case Brake Question

The last time I looked, PartsDude4x4 had many of the 11” internal parts.

 

Looking at that, I would put the probability of the axle shaft seals leaking being about 99.9% and that is gear lube soaking the brakes. Not only will it not fix its self, it is going to get worse. The corollary to that theory is that worn axle bearings are one of the prime reasons the seals fail. Do yourself a BIG favor, save yourself some wasted money and TIME, and tear it the rest of the way down NOW-replace both seals and bearings. Also check the seal surface on the shafts closely. If you have grooving there, a new seal will not solve this. I think you could use a "speedy sleeve" there but have not actually done that.

 

If you have never done this before, study the manual and ask questions here whenever something is not completely clear. It is easy to hurt yourself when pulling the hubs by it suddenly popping off and hitting you, so leave the nut threaded onto the end of the axle to keep it from doing this. It is easy to hurt the hubs when re-installing them. Remember the hub goes onto the taper first, align the key slot and tap in the key, this way the washer and nut will push hub and key as a unit when you tighten it to specified torque.

If you put the key in the slot and slide the hub on over it the hub will push the key ahead of it, and the key will ramp up in the slot causing the hub to split when the nut is tightened.

You need a puller like the one pictured below. Some parts stores will loan them out, or you may find one at a reasonable price on Ebay or Craigslist. You will also need a way to pull the axles. I use a homemade slide hammer, others get creative.

 

x2, Yes, very, very important you assemble just as oldpappy says.

 

Guys, I really appreciate the detailed advice on this. Thanks for looking out for me. I have read threads about this before and will do a lot of reading and find some videos before tackling this. I am planning (unless I hear otherwise) to put the axle/diff housings and leafs back on the frame before doing this. Maybe even finish the front disc brakes and put back on the front wheels. It seems like that would make everything quite a bit more stable.

 

Good idea, then the frame holds everything while you work on it

 

Hub puller has arrived and I have been doing some reading in the FSM and watching videos. I have a few (probably elementary) questions. I am definitely going to keep the nut on as I pull the hub and not put in the key until the hub is in place!

I know there is a seal on the hub side of the axle. I don't see a seal on the pumpkin side of the axle (except at the yoke). Is that correct? Can I replace the hub side seal without taking apart the diff which appears to be in working order?

I have a leak at the yoke that I noticed when the yoke was hanging down when it was up on jack stands. Can I replace the yoke seal without taking apart the whole diff assembly? What I have read so far talks about replacing the yoke seal when servicing the diff.

 

Yes, you can replace the axle seal when you remove the axle without doing anything with the diff.

I haven’t done it but I believe the same is true of the yoke seal.

 

There are no seals at the pumpkin on the rear axle, just at the ends of the axle tubes and the pinion.

After I pull the hub, and remove the brake backing plate and retainer, I put the hub back on loose and thread the nut onto the shaft. This is so I can attach my slide hammer to the wheel studs to pull the axle.

No reason to do anything with the differential for replacing the pinion or axle seals, but if you find a lot of grease in the tubes, or indication of water intrusion (brown muddy looking oil) having the axles out is a good time to pull the differential cover and clean it all out.

 

I am in the process of pulling my rear hubs. I bought the proper puller. It is greased. I am tensioning it with my BFH.
When I strike the dog bone with the mallet, the entire hub spins. Because of this, I’m not getting any more tension on the puller.
What am I doing wrong?

Edit: I loosened the castle nut about two turns. The washer between that me castle but and the hub has at least 1/8” of play.

 

got it

 

, Just a thought. If the puller is extremely tight I have swelled the end of my axle and ruined them. So make sure the puller bolt stays dead center of your axle end when applying pressure.

 

Which one of you said I should find out where the leak was coming from…
Some pretty smart folks on this forum. Thanks again. Onward.

 

Think you found out.

 

Another part of the hub-pulling process, hit the dogbone till you don’t make much more progress, then smack the cap on the end of the threaded shaft. The combination usually gets the hub to release on the taper.
-Donny

 

I found your note on that elsewhere and that is what finally got it to release. Thanks.
Any tips on pulling the axle. Kaiserwillys has a tool for $99 made to pull the axles. I have seen references to welding two nuts together with one to join it to a slap hammer. I read about other other modifications to slap hammers. Anyone with a picture of a simple puller to fabricate?

 

If they aren't stuck too bad, a rudimentary puller using the hub will work. Put the hub in place and put the nut on so there is some slack. Yank on the hub for a slide hammer effect. You can also bolt the brake drum to the hub facing outwards for something to better grab hold of and add some mass.

 

For the win…

 

New seals arrived today. Heading out for the weekend, so reassembly will need to wait until Monday. The bearings on the axles appear to be in good shape. I’m planning on leaving them in place so I don’t need to press them back on. I don’t have a press. I’m still going to clean the heck out of them. Is that an ok idea?