Oh Boy, Here We Go.. 1970 Cj5 Dauntless Build

Engine code on my block under passenger head: DRH 05

Mine is 225ci

Know what these reference below?

Rear of block on top: 991503

Rear of intake manifold behind carb: 1378704-E

 

I show 991503 as a known 225 casting number, 67-71

1378704-E is also a known 2bbl 225 intake #.

This is a great reference:
https://web.archive.org/web/20080415085927/http://www.earlycj5.com/tech/engines/225/

 

from this link, it says that casting means it’s a 2bbl

https://web.archive.org/web/2010092...bers-internal-specs-for-most-years-and-notes/

 

I have not 100% verified mine is a 231 odd fire. Obviously mine is a swap as no FC came with a V6. It was changing the fuel pump that got me wondering. The jeep fuel pump didn't have the same fittings as the one I was replacing. Then I started doing some digging to try to figure out what it was from and discovered that Buick used the odd fire in a 231cid in cars for about 2 years before they did the even fire 231. Factory HEI is one of the identifiers, although obviously that's also swappable to a 225. I think there were EGR provisions on the 231 also. There are some visual differences between the 225 and 231, but I don't recall what they all were right now. They were about that color too.

 

Weather and work finally allowed some time to dig in to this thing.

Pulled the HEI dizzy and reinstalled at TDC on plug #1 post. PO had plug#1 on post #3. Plugs looked like it's running super rich. New cap, coil, and plugs as well.

I will probably have to get a 1/2" or 1" spacer for the fan. It is real close to vac advance elbow. Or could go electric fan, haven't decided yet.

Discovered a few things.. went to turn the motor and harmonic balance bolt was not even finger tight lol. Once I got the dizzy out, I noticed PO did grind down the intake manifold but just packed the front bolt hole with RTV or gasket maker.

Anybody know the intake manifold bolt size? I'll pick up a set screw to install there.
And what is the best way to torque the harmonic balance bolt? Hold the flywheel or is there a better tool for it?

Next moved on to the water pump, it is weeping so needs a new one.

Found the PO had no thermostat installed.. I wonder if he had overheating problems? The alternator bracket was broken at the front tab. Appears there was an attempt to fix already.

Next on the list is dropping the seat mounted tank that was strapped under the rear. Reinstalling under the seat and running new fuel lines.

Also been piling parts up for front disc conversion, rear brake service, all bearings, seals on outside of axles and knuckles. Got new drag link and tie rods.. just going to throw parts at the steering for now. And new leafs, shackles, shocks to get this back to stock height.

Good progress so far! And fun learning about something completely different than an AMC Joop.

 

Best way to torque balancer bolt is with flywheel holding tool.
Absent that, have someone stand on brake pedal while transmission is in high gear while you torque bolt. Research the torque spec, stripping out the thread or snapping the bolt will make you sad.

 

Welp.. going to abandon this thread/build on the red 1970. Ended up finding a super clean and almost 100% stock 1969 CJ5. Red one had good bones but just too far from stock for my liking. I'll start or edit out this thread for 'ole blue.

 

Nice looking Jeep!

 

Appreciate it! Picked this one up from Arizona and it just blows my mind the condition of a southwest, 54 year old vehicle.. just no rust or rot.