Oh Boy, Here We Go.. 1970 Cj5 Dauntless Build

Welcome to another build thread..

I posted this in the introduction section but I'll restart here to have it all in one place.

I have always wanted a Dauntless powered CJ5! For me it is the stickers on the valve covers and air filter housing.. reminds me of WWII era war birds with their nose art. I think they sound gnarly too!

This one popped up last week and I just said screw it, let's take on another Jeep project. I have been restoring the family's 1986 CJ7 Laredo for the past year. That one is priceless to our family.. summer rides with the top off.. my first vehicle at 16. So with that, I am not looking to modify or do much other than restore for Dad and the family to enjoy. That one is currently waiting on a 258 block to be machined and motor rebuild so in the mean time, let's jump in to the 1970 project!

My current plan for this rig is to have it drivable first and would be nice to wheel with it at some point. Time will tell! But, this thing needs a lot of work. I am not sure which PO did what.. but we got some things to address and decide on.

Current list of things to fix:
1) Tune up! As I discovered by posts here, I need to pull the distributor and install correctly. The HEI seems to be all wrong. Terminal #1 on the cap is run to cylinder #3 currently. So she isn't running right at all. I'll also do an oil/filter change, plugs, set timing and idle.

2) Wiring. I think this has a 28 circuit Painless Wiring harness. The fuse blocks seem to match their pictures anyways. I have a ton of wires not landed and the tail lights do not work. There is some trailer harness mess spliced in. I think it was towed behind a RV at some point as I have a tow bar as well. I will dig into this over the weekend to try and determine if I can figure out the wiring.. I am leaning towards a Walck's reproduction harness.

2a) Factory switches and such.. currently I have a washer switch that is aftermarket and doesn't work, a light switch that does work, ignition switch that sticks on start, choke cable that isn't connected, and column blinker switch that does nothing.. If anyone has stock images or sources for what switches came factory, let me know!

3) Steering needs to be serviced. Has the original box but appears to be leaking. Need to find a write up on rebuilding or servicing a Ross box. For now I plan to keep the OG manual setup which leads to me wanting stock 15x5.5 and close enough stock tire size. The 15x8s with 31x10.5 are cool looking.. I just dig stock looking things! An alignment probably wouldn't hurt either.

4) Brakes and drivetrain.. Brakes work but I will go ahead and replace all shoes, drums, and wheel cylinders. Master cylinder isn't leaking and fluid looks ok. The trans and transfer case shift fine, need to change fluids there and hit the axles as well.

5) Fuel tank and lines. PO took the under seat tank and strapped in the rear where a 15gal tank would mount, yet he just cut a hole in the rear floor to fill! Also, no return line, it is just plugged at the fuel pump. I'd like to run a under seat and rear tank but for now I'll drop the tank and move back under the drivers seat, run new lines and drop in a new sender. There is an aftermarket fuel gauge that sorta works? I might try to test the factory gauge and swap over to that one.

6) Suspension looks fine but I think it has a lift, either a leaf or shackle. I will take some measurements to compare to someone stock out there. Would like to return to stock if it is not already.

7) Body will be later one but this thing has been cut up and patched with some flimsy gauge stuff in the rear. And the tunnel behind shifters is a hack job lol. Oh and it has the thicc boi paint job. It appears to have been heavily sprayed red over the factory white. If I get to the point where the harness is out to swap to a reproduction, I'll probably pull the tub and other body panels for a respray.

This is just the start and the progress will depend on weather, for now.. shade tree mechanic for life!

Pumped to start this one and I think it will turn out great one day!

Feel free to share info or insight on anything you see that needs addressing! Cheers!

 

Thanks! Looking into an 11" drum swap for sure. I think Herm sells a full kit, did you go 11" on front and rear?

 

Here is a slide show Moses Ludel did a few years ago on the Ross box rebuild. The most difficult part will be sourcing NOS parts. There are reproduction rebuild kits but the materials don't have a good reputation.

 

Thanks for sharing this! Btw your exhaust setup sounds great!

 

Well both Herm and other sites are all out of stock on the back plates. Found willysjeepparts.com sells full kits plus all seals and gaskets.

 

Not sure if you seen this, but this a pretty easy swap on a Saturday. I put disks on all 4 corners, along with a new MC made for disks at the front and back. I can't believe how awesome it is to be able to lock up the tires and come to a fast stop. These won't work on flanged dana 44 axles, just the tapered ones.
I can't stress enough how easy and nice this conversion kit is.


https://brennans-garage.com/products/trackick-disc-brake-conversion-bracket

 

Hey Jeepstar, do you have a model number for the replacement master cylinder? Are we talking an under-floor unit, or swinging pedal conversion?

 

I did the 11" drum conversion to my '53 M38a1 decades ago. Before with 9" brakes it was downright dangerous. Now if I stand on the brake pedal, I can toss a passenger thru the windshield. They are that good!
You would essentially be installing 1/2 ton truck brakes on a little Jeep.

 

I did an on the frame one, retaining stock pedal configuration. Not sure of the model #. Jeep is up in storage for the winter months as well.

 

Now that is slick. You just parts mill the kit off basic stuff. I need to get a parts list together to see cost versus an 11” drum kit.

I snapped a few pictures of the current brakes. I’m guessing these are 10”?

 

I think my D44 is flanged..

 

He makes a bracket for the flanged 44 as well.

 

He does, but take note that bracket is not for a track kick brake

 

Well I guess I should really waited on my shop manual and parts catalog. I do in fact have a tapered rear axle. So with that I have ordered four disc conversion brackets from Brennan's site and all brake parts from rock auto.

Hey Jeepstar, what wheels do you run on your setup? I'd like to run stock 15", just curious if you do and if they clear, I know he says some will and some won't. Also, where did you get your MC from?

As far as seals, gaskets and bearings for front and rear axles.. Does anybody sell a complete kit? On the AMC side of this world, I had no problem sourcing that stuff in a kit. Seems a bit harder to find in the older Jeeps.

 

Wondering by the color on the motor and the fact that it has HEI if it's an oddfire 231? Have you run the numbers on it? I suspect I have an oddfire 231 in one of my FC's that's the same color with an HEI.

 

Hmm, hadn't even crossed my mind. I will say the engine was rattle canned with the amount of overspray on everything.. fuel line, hoses, vac advance. Where are the casting numbers on these guys?