Introduction- As Tonka gets older (or maybe it's me) I'm finding the effort required to crank the big'ole'bus wheel in stopped or low speed conditions to be getting harder & harder, power steering seems like the answer. Ideally this series of posts would be a straight forward "how to" but the fact is every situation is a bit different so the exact details of my solution may not work for any one else contemplating doing this. There will be a lot of info on how I selected the components & settled on a final layout, probably much of which will fall into any one person's "Way to Much Information" category But some may find the design process useful if they want to go this route. Plus I have way too many photos I need to do something with. Speaking of which you may notice as you read through there's some discontinuity in the pics- things did not get done in a nice neat orderly manner so if you notice paint appearing & disappearing, parts magically changing position etc. don't be confused. So to be clear straight off a Saginaw swap was completely out of the question. First- I'm a bit AR about making mods that can't easily be removed to return Tonk to a purely stock condition so if it's not purely a bolt on, or at least easily removed leaving no trace of it's existence I'm naturally inclined against it. Second- I have a Ramsey PTO winch that precludes the mounting of a Saginaw to the front frame horns anyhow. There are solutions that mount a Saginaw style (actually ford?) gear box beside the shock but use of these with an F4 motor is known to be problematic. Third- I like to live under the delusion that any mods I make are "period correct". Or at least hidden where no one can see them. Besides the Saginaw swap there are a few other less-well known options available, some practical, some not. Some period correct, some not. Now all hydraulically assisted steering uses the same basic components- a pump, some variation on a spool valve inserted into the linkage between the steering wheel/steering gear and a hydraulic cylinder to provide the boost to the steering linkage. Units such as the Saginaw incorporate the valve & cylinder into the same housing as the steering gears- A few like the Ross unit below put the valve attached to the the gear box but with a separate assist cylinder/piston; this setup is usually typical on large commercial vehicles. Unfortunately the form factor and size pretty much exclude them from being a CJ bolt on. There's rack and pinion conversions (typically Pinto derived)- popular with the hot rod crowd they've never really seemed to have caught on with off road vehicles, I believe there's concern about how well they stand up to off road use. Here's one from eWillys- Way back in the day a really neat solution was offered by Monroe, this could best be described as "Power Steering in a Stick". These were used as factory equipment by a few manufactures such as Packard but interestingly were available as kits for installation on a number of non PS equipped cars- Ahhh the Good 'ol Days As neat as the Monroe unit was it only seems to have been in production for a few years. More typically for light truck & passenger vehicles back then the valve would be a separate piece between the steering box & tie rod, usually connected to a drag link. These systems were used by all the major manufacturers from the mid 50's up till, on a limited model basis, the early 80's. These days besides the hydraulic setups there's also options for Electrically Power Assisted Steering (EPAS) units; these are totally electric in operation & should not be confused with systems that use an electric pump to supply pressure to a hydraulically assisted steering system (I will discuss these pumps a bit further on). EPAS systems have become very popular with the hot rod & resto-mod crowds using Saturn Ion & Toyota units, both available for quite reasonable prices on the used parts market. They work very well but for a jeep there is the issue that they go between the steering wheel & the steering box requiring cuts/mods to the steering column to install. Also while they certainly reduce the steering effort for the driver they do not reduce (& will actually increase in some situations) the stress on the steering box & bellcrank, the two prime wear points in the system. So those are the possibilities. I elected to go the separate components hydraulic route. This is not new ground- these systems have been adapted to CJ's before- This one belongs to user Michael Toews Here's one put together recently by garage gnome A different approach by duffer, he used the complete system from a donor including the steering box & drag link setup So the plan is made- time to start selecting components & figuring out how they'll fit.