Discussion in 'Early CJ5 and CJ6 Tech' started by Howard Eisenhauer, Sep 2, 2021.
Very nice work and documentation.
Now for the hydroboost brakes!
Another useful power steering thread!
I tried using the 2 hole knuckle on my jeep (D30 version) and I wasn't able to steer lock to lock fully. Maybe it is because the D30 has more steering travel?
another thread that needs to go to technical section
Wow , Howard. Excellent project detail.
I agree with moving this to the Technical section , to be preserved for generations to come !.
I also agree with the Hydroboost Brake suggestion . Best system ever & Tonk would love it.
Amazing project Howard! Congrats. Hope you can dial it in to perfection soon.
FWIW I measured 8" of rod travel on both cylinders, of course on my setup I can adjust where the cylinder connects to the tierod to center the rod travel.
I looked at using the center TRE for use on the single hole knuckle, to me it looks like the taper on the hole is "backwards" from what I needed but people have made these work somehow. I have found the GM/Chev square body trucks used these things as well & come in left & right versions, one of those may work well with a single hole.
EDIT: Apparently the RH tierod end from a '70-ish Commando is the hot ticke if you're using a single hole knuckle-
Great job Howard!
I had to do a Y link setup on my jeep. The issue is, the center to center on the bell crank to the tie rod end is shorter than the center to center of the ball joint to the outer hole of the passenger knuckle. Sure, those ratios increase leverage, but it reduces travel. That is also why I used a v6 box, for more leverage.
A lot of 60's Ramblers used 11/16-18 and the same taper.
I'm having trouble visualizing this in my, admittedly frazzled, brain
Can you whip up a diagram to help explain?
Nice work there Howard.
Another possible donor pump is the generator driven unit used on Jaguar sedans in the mid/late 1960's. Might be as hard to find as the the Packard slave.
Additionally, Subaru used an early electric power steering pump in the XT6 model from '86-'91. Its probably overly complex, requiring both a light beam/chopper wheel sensor in the steering column, and an electronic processing box/computer to control it.
The reletive simplicity of the Saginaw conversion makes it the most popular choice, but they are also quite effective leaving the pump out of the equation and just looping a hose on the box. These just don't leave much room for your PTO winch.
There's certainly no arguing that the Saggy swap is effective, but they're not for everyone. The main selling point for a Saginaw is that eliminates a number of wear points that plague the stock linkage but a well built & maintained Ross system steers as well as anything else. With the tight steer, the cone bearing bellcrank & the power assist I expect Tonk's steering system will stay tight for a long long time to come.
Also the Saginaw is not a trivial exercise; stock, or at least relatively stock, CJ's are getting fewer and fewer- in the long run I think the frame hacks required for the Saginaw conversion will hurt a vehicle's value.
Now of course the "Corvette" system is not exactly a one day bolt on exercise but if your Ross system is in relatively good shape- i.e. good sector shaft, bushings & bellcrank bearings, I see it as a bit simpler exercise than the Saginaw. Both require some mounts fabbed & installed, both require some tie rod changes, both require obtaining & mounting a pump but the 'vette doesn't need the steering column mods, fabricating the column to gearbox linkage or, GRRRR UGH-, chopping a hole in the crossmember.
And of course the Vetty works better for the winch setup.
I think we could have a really fun drunken, ..., umm ... "discussion" over the pros & cons of each approach some time, any good bars in the keys?
As for the Jag combo I'd have to obtain a Whitworth to SAE voltage/current converter- they're getting hard to find & pricey.
Also it's my understanding the smoke recharge kits aren't on the market anymore
Also converting Tonk to positive ground would turn him to rust in no time flat.
This is what I was talking about. The ratio of x on the knuckle to the bell crank is 1:1. By using the outer hole, the leverage is increased, but the travel is decreased. That was my problem. So I went with a y-link setup and it solved my problem.
So you were running out of travel on the steering box? What sort of axle do you have?
How many turns does your steering wheel go lock to lock?
I'll have to check.
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