Fino's Sbc Build

I know...I probably should have just tried running it as was and used it until it blew up completely....

 

ignorance is bliss in this case....your help is appreciated, but my already frustrated mindset does not appreciate the soul crushing snark...

 

cheers - I'll do my best to complain less....at this point, there is no avoiding the engine is not useable as is....time to create a better plan...

 

Pulled the main bearing caps - from my limited experience, the main bearing shells look like they will probably need replaced....
front cap:


2nd cap:


3rd - you can also see the grey cleavite fluid on the cap bolts and the unique smell that accompanies it - reminds me of when the 225 v6 died....


4th:


rear cap:


To replace these shells requires removing the crank I assume....so guessing that means removing the connecting rods - time to read up on these steps....

 

Ok - I see how this is done - the pistons/rods are removed out the top of the block (downwards when flipped on the stands) and the crank comes out last.
Wondering if I should remove the piston/rods to inspect?
If I were to replace the main bearing shells - I would need to know if the crank has been ground. From my questionable measurements - it looks like the crank is still at oem 2.45" journal specs. Would there be any indication on the back of the bearing shell to help verify?

 

I agree, you're already this far.

 

unless there is a ridge at the top of the bore....is there any way to inspect rings (basically see that they are not broken) without removing from the cylinder bore?

The walls look good, but no idea on how out of round or taper issues there might be....Don't have the proper tool for measuring inside the cylinder bore....

 

Just thinking aloud....I 'might' be willing to take an empty block to a machine shop for tanking (I am also worried about plugged oil galleys) and honing of the cylinders (guess they would also check the deck as well) and install new cam bearings....Could then use new rings on the old pistons, re-use the rods etc....Not sure if the crank would get work or not - maybe let the machine shop take a look at that. New rod and main bearing install myself, new cam, lifters and timing kit.....I have some pricing sheets from the machine shop so will work up a cost estimate....Of course, then we are back in the discussion of is it worth it to spend that money on the bottom end with the heads as they are - and the machine work on the heads (or straight aftermarket replacement) is in the $700 range.....Minimum cost estimate is basically just new cam, lifters and timing kit ($150).....Also have to keep in mind once this is done, I need to save budget for a new clutch, new power steering bracket (and maybe pump), probably new water pump, and possibly new valve covers....haven't disassembled the oil pump yet so that might be salveagable, or maybe another $30....Thinking I could possibly sell the shorty headers and use the old rams horn manifold to save a few bucks...Guessing no one wants the EGR q-jet and not sure about the EGR spread bore intake either....

Going to pull a couple of rod caps to take a look - maybe test the movement of the piston in the cylinder.....After checking the 'wiggle' or play of the pistons in the cylinder bore, I am less concerned than I was yesterday....all 8 are about the same, and its most noticeable at TDC for all of them - so maybe that is a concern about the cylinder bore wear, but it also means its equal across the board. I was never able to a compression test - couldn't figure out how to do it on the stand, and the leak down test was equally bad for all the cylinders. But there was no way to warm the engine up to operating temp, so it was done cold.

Have an appt in a bit today, then if the weather stays nice and warm, have some exterior house trim and shutter painting to finish - so may not get to too much with it today.