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Procedure to cut down a tie rod

Discussion in 'Early CJ5 and CJ6 Tech' started by DanStew, Apr 1, 2005.

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  1. Apr 4, 2005
    DanStew

    DanStew Preowned Merkin salesman Staff Member

    Lexington, South...
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    Well i got another reply to this on another forum one guy mentioend 7/8 - 18. Does that sound like a familiar size? I still need to get the tube diameter first .
     
    DanStew, Apr 4, 2005
    #21
  2. Apr 4, 2005
    DanStew

    DanStew Preowned Merkin salesman Staff Member

    Lexington, South...
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    OK, with the caliper i got a measurement of .870 of an inch diamter of the threaded portion of the drag link. The threaded part is tapered a touch from the overall diamter of the shaft. The thread is right hand so that is good. The tie rod end is left hand thread. Where did you get the dies at to thread this rod?? The shaft seems to be made out of solid steel, but then again they could have capped the end so it was not open
     
    DanStew, Apr 4, 2005
    #22
  3. Apr 4, 2005
    Mcruff

    Mcruff Earlycj5 Machinist

    Albertville, AL
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    If your setup is like the dana 30 setup, which it looks like it, the rod is a 1 piece forging, the cj unit may just be smaller in diameter. I thought you wanted to tap the tube not thread the shaft, big difference Dan.
     
    Mcruff, Apr 4, 2005
    #23
  4. Apr 4, 2005
    Ghetto Fab.

    Ghetto Fab. Member

    Atascadero, Ca.
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    It looks like you will have to turn the OD of the "connecting rod" down so that the die will be able to cut the threads properly. 7/8-18 is a common full size tie rod end thread. Not to be confused with the much more common 7/8-16 size you will find in most hardware stores.

    I doubt you want to do this, but you could simply find some steel tube, bore it out and tap it for whatever tierod ends you want to use. Make it any length you want. Or buy some threaded tube adapters to weld into the tube.

    Kevo
     
    Ghetto Fab., Apr 4, 2005
    #24
  5. Apr 4, 2005
    DanStew

    DanStew Preowned Merkin salesman Staff Member

    Lexington, South...
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    I tguht bout the tube adapters. I am guessing the tuvbe is actually hollow. My firend may have a tap at his house, adn actually he does have a lathe we can take it down. I will look for those weld in threaded bungs, want to see if they might be worth it. but still looking to rethread it.
     
    DanStew, Apr 4, 2005
    #25
  6. Apr 5, 2005
    Project71-5

    Project71-5 BACON

    Gypsum, CO
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    Sep 24, 2002
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    I know that on my D30 draglink, the rod necks down to where the threads are for the adjusting sleeve. Seems to me that you would need to get the rod turned down to the proper diameter to cut the threads. The D30 link is solid as well.
     
    Project71-5, Apr 5, 2005
    #26
  7. Apr 5, 2005
    timgr

    timgr We stand on the shoulders of giants. 2022 Sponsor

    Medford Mass USA
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    Dan, here's your setup:

    [​IMG]

    IIRC the connecting rod is solid. If it's the same size all along it's length, you could use a die to tap it a little further. Since it's a raw forging, you'd probably have to clean it up some to rethread it. If you have acces to a lathe, that would be easy. A die and a handle will probably cost more than a tap of the same size, but it would be the neat way to go.

    There's no need for the thread size to be a mystery. You have the part - simply measure it. The cheap plastic vernier calipers will do - measure the diameter and count how many threads in an inch.
     
    timgr, Apr 5, 2005
    #27
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