Procedure to cut down a tie rod

Dan I don't know what the tap is, but I can tell you how to do it. The right handed tap is far cheaper than a left handed any day, so 1st thing make sure you are cutting down the side with the right hand threads. Take the tap and screw it into the tierod tube and make sure it goes in there quite deep, as you want as many threads leftover when you cut it off so you can use them as a lead to keep the tap straight and running true, if not thread it deeper before cutting it off. Saw off or use a cutoff wheel to cut off what you don't need and then rethread it using the leftover as the guide. Once tapped deep enough, take a cut off wheel recut the slot for the tube clamp, keep it as straight as possible, use a homemade guide of some kind if possible.

 

dan i am not sure what steering you have but if its stock ( not an MB ) it will be 11/16 left and right hand taps. could you cut your tie rod and shorting it to the length you need then sleave it and re-weld it. this might be cheaper than buying two taps and SCH80 1'' pipe should slide over the stock tie rod, this will be plenty strong and its a cheap way to beef up your tie rod.

i say all this not realy knowing what steering you have or axle, but we did this last year at pargon as a trail reapair ( except for the cutting the stock tube ) after my friend bent his stock dana 30 tie rod, my other friend used his high lift handle witch was a piece of SCH80 pipe after he lost his stock handle, he had know high lift handle but the jeep was moving agin, jason.

 

I used Mike's method and it turned out great. I know that CJ size TR ends are 11/16-18. I have the tap if you want to use it. I had to order it through MSC because it is such an odd size.

 

Is the steering connecting rod too long or the tie rod? I'm with Jason, if the tie rod really needs shortened, it's probably easier/ cheaper to cut and weld a sleeve over the tie rod.It's hard to tell by the picture but it looks as though there's enough adjustment in the clamp. But your there,I'm not. Also it's good to keep the tie rod as horizontal to the axle tube as possible.

 

Cut a piece out of the middle of the adjusting sleeve and weld it back together. This way you won't have to thread anything. You might have to also slightly shorten both the tie rod and tie rod end so they don't contact each other inside the sleeve. Before you cut them, find a nut that threads onto them. Run it on, cut the rods down, then back the nut off and it will clean the threads up for you.

 

Dan, this is the Wagoneer drag link? Jeep calls the long, solid part of it the connecting rod. Connecting rod, clamp, turnbuckle, clamp, end assy. I'd be really reluctant to cut the turnbuckle; I'd think you need something more than a butt weld of the cut ends. Plus I wouldn't trust my welding that much.

Instead I might shorten (cut) the connecting rod, butt weld the cut ends together, and weld a sleeve over it. At least you'd have the stress distributed over 3 welds then.

What Steve suggests would do the same thing and is better, if you can buy the die.

 

For what its worth guys, welding anything on your steering in most states is illegal if you're gonna drive this thing on the street, especially tie rod tubes or forged tie rods. And so long as you are willing to wait, quit buying taps and dies at you local hardware/ auto parts place. I can buy 2 top notch high speed steel taps or dies for the price of 1 crappy carbon steel one that you get at the parts store if you buy from a regular industrial warehouse like J&L industrial or MSC or McMaster Carr. So long as you don't let them sit in water they will tap or thread 4-10X as many parts.

 

Billy, Dan needs an 11/16-18 tap, that is the standard tie rod size for a civilian Jeep.

 

MSC item # 04846762, will get you right handed import tap for $18.87,