Saginaw Steering

What do you have for exhaust? That will determine the brackets coming off the head......................The steering input shaft coming from the column can go above or below the cross member..........although going through the cross member gets you the best angle to the column with a minimum of U-joints and also better sets up the Pittman arm in height..........still may not clear your winch depending on size...............

 

I have original V6 exhaust, drivers side is front dump. The winch is a Koeing, I have a 5/16 inch plate that bolts to the under side of the front bumper and bolts under the frame by the grill. I had to cut the bumper to get the fairlead in.

 

Here is the winch mounted







With the front bellcranck gone may be able to move the winch over some.

Anyone have a measurement of how far the sag box is off the frame rail?

 

Once the bellcrank is removed there should be plenty of room to move the winch and add saginaw steering. As far as cutting up the column, hunt down a postal jeep from 1975 back and take the column out, it is nearly a direct bolt in and used saginaw steering stock so it hooks up fine and is the same diameter of column and mount for the dash. I put a postal column in mine back in 2006 when I did my saginaw steering.

 

Looks busy up there with that PTO drive shaft going right through the area where a Drag Link & Pittman arm also needs to reside ...............Might be enough room Saginaw 4-bolt #800 about 5.750" wide and 11" long not including the front splined input shaft.....should fit just have to move things around...........everything is a compromise

 

Another view point:

 

Ohhhh, Strong Hands. Bought 8 of those a couple weeks back for gluing up woodwork in the house. Needed something strong that one end would fit in a inch high space. Worked perfect.

Sorry Steve-------

 

I agree. You should have plenty of room under the winch for this to work. Why everyone hates the ross system is beyond me. Its fine with with some maintenance and proper upkeep.

 

The Ross system works ok with little or no lift and stock-ish sized tires, assuming all components are in good condition.
When you get into a lift & bigger tires, it's limitations become apparent.

 

My crossmember has no cuts in it. My setup has the spud shaft going under the crossmember, with only a small notch in the frame motor mount, has good angles on the steering shaft and my drag link and front tierod is straight with no bump steer. You really don’t need the steering box that high up on the frame, if you hit it on rocks like mine is mounted you have bigger problems such as your front shackle already being destroyed.

 

I agree....mine is mounted lower too and the shafts runs just under the cross member. I even managed to get it in there with the factory front dump exhaust manifold and Y pipe.
Yes the box is low, but it's higher than the leaf spring and shackle right next to it and the front tie rod and axle right behind it.
I've never hit it on a rock and I do some fairly tough trails.

 

Sounds good, your kit is sounding better.

 

My cross member is not cut either, the steering shaft goes under it. I could see a slight possibility of a rock hitting my pitman arm, but not very likely. I think the tie-rod and drag link flip help that situation as well.

Here are pics of mine.

 

These were taken back in 2005 or so.