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New EFI Option - Looks Like 3 Good Players Now

Discussion in 'Early CJ5 and CJ6 Tech' started by Warloch, Nov 8, 2017.

  1. Sep 29, 2021
    truckee4x4

    truckee4x4 Grant Kaye 2022 Sponsor 2021 Sponsor 2020 Sponsor

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    I looked at that location, makes sense to have easy access to it - the sensor needs to 1"-10" back from the end of the header though s isn't at the MC too far back? In this pic about where the sticker on the Y pipe is might work...although not that easy to get to.
    UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_80dd.jpg

    The other side looks like this:
    UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_80dc.jpg
    And is at the end of about 36" of heat shielded wire, so I can pretty much place it anywhere.

    I do have a Holley adapter + bung, I'm just strapping it on now temporarily as a means to check fitment and interference (and take photos). I am going to drop the Y pipe and attempt to Tig the bung in (with help from our welding instructor at the Roundhouse since I'm new to that process). The pipes from Waldron are aluminized steel which can be Mig or Tig welded to my understanding. I will have to re-coat the weld bead and heat affected area with some type of rust inhibitor, and I won't be able to coat the inside. Here's a pretty informative video:

    UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_80db.jpg

    Edit: Found curved-bottom bungs that are M18x1.5 and fit the Bosch 17025 (Holley 554-155) cheap on Amazon.

    Another good video overview (sorry it's Hooley specific, again!)

     
    Last edited: Sep 29, 2021
  2. Sep 29, 2021
    Buildflycrash

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    Does the kit come with a weld in bung as well? I may want to buy one if it doesn't.
     
  3. Sep 29, 2021
    Norcal69

    Norcal69 Out of the box thinker 2022 Sponsor 2021 Sponsor 2020 Sponsor

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    The passenger side may be the better option. As far as welding goes, I would not worry about tig welding the o2 bung in. MIG it up and roll with it.
     
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  4. Sep 29, 2021
    truckee4x4

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    Can one of you guys that understands engines and EFI more than me explain why you would want to mount the sensor just aft of the headers so it only reads one bank of cylinders and not after the Y-pipe merges all six cylinders?
    That I can do! And may not even have to drop the pipe depending on the location. Edit - of course I will - it will be full of metal shavings from drilling the hole.

    No it does not - just the strap on adapter w/ gasket. And I broke both the clamps trying to tighten them...
     
    Last edited: Sep 30, 2021
  5. Sep 29, 2021
    Norcal69

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    It has to do with the exhaust gas temperature and the latency of the sensor. If the sensor is too far away the exhaust gas can cool below the range that the sensor is supposed to operate in. Condensation from cooling exhaust will also damage the sensor. Most Y pipes are too far away from the engine to read the exhaust gas at the appropriate temperature.
     
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  6. Sep 29, 2021
    Buildflycrash

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    Amazon to the rescue. Mines ordered.
     
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  7. Sep 29, 2021
    45es

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    In the past, the more commonly used o2 sensors were narrow band non-heated type. Since o2 sensors need to be hot to operate, they were located as close the manifold as possible. This of course meant a single side location was chosen so the o2 sensor would come up to heat rapidly. Moving to a location down stream and after the "Y" pipe location will provide a more thorough examination of the exhaust by the o2 sensor but it may not get hot enough to operate or is slow to start functioning. This can be resolved by the use of a heated o2 sensor. Be aware that the further the o2 sensor is physically located away from the engine, can effect the response time within the EFI system to changes effecting the engine (additional load or less for example).

    Where ever you choose a location it, have good access to the sensor. They can be a real pain in the butt to remove after being in use for a long time.
     
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  8. Sep 29, 2021
    truckee4x4

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    Just FYI so folks have an idea of costs if they don't DIY - I called a couple of muffler shop in Sparks to see what they would charge to weld the bung in and they said around $145...if I supply the bung and bring the pipe in. Yikes!
     
  9. Sep 30, 2021
    truckee4x4

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    Regarding O2 sensor placement, I think I have it narrowed down to two spots.

    What do you guys think of this RH placement?
    UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_80ec.jpg

    I made it to Summit yesterday and grabbed a "radiused" bung and since these Waldron pipes are not D.O.M. there is a suitable not-distorted spot with very little gap around the bung to weld up. The sensor would be roughly parallel to the ground in a spot with easy access from underneath and facing forward...only detriment I can think of is that it's pretty exposed to rocks/dirt/squirrels....how robust are these Bosch sensors?

    It’s either that or over just below the LH header flange facing forward above the frame rail.

    69275AE2-3E05-461A-B642-34E476CD31CF.jpeg

    Thoughts?
     
  10. Sep 30, 2021
    Buildflycrash

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    I'd do the right side. If you ever swap a different exhaust it will be easier to reinstall.
     
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  11. Sep 30, 2021
    Norcal69

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    If it doesn't interfere with anything else, the LH location looks better to me.
     
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  12. Sep 30, 2021
    truckee4x4

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    I don't think anything will be in the way there, here's a photo pre-teardown. Looks like a lot of open space.
    D55BCB9E-98DC-4D83-9538-7A5D56ED2E6A.jpeg
    It would also allow me to route the wire on the fender back to the firewall and then to the Sniper.

    Question on the crank sensor triggers. My engine is currently resting at #1 TDC. I'm designing a bracket to CNC from 1/4" aluminum to hold the crank trigger sensor. Does it matter whether the trigger is below, on, or above the sensor in this position?
     
  13. Sep 30, 2021
    Norcal69

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    On a fuel control only system the triggers (nodes are what I call them) do not have to be sequenced with the engine in any way. Just evenly spaced around the balancer.
     
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  14. Sep 30, 2021
    timgr

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    Ie no phasing, just a speed sensor?
     
  15. Sep 30, 2021
    Norcal69

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    Yes
     
  16. Sep 30, 2021
    truckee4x4

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    Thanks Kyle. If this works I'll be glad to share the bracket file and/or help anyone else out that needs a bracket made.
     
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  17. Sep 30, 2021
    Norcal69

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    That's great! I really hope that we eventually get enough info posted that anyone who wants can tackle an EFI project.
    My jeep always ran good before EFI....but it runs so much better and drive ability is improved dramatically.... Its pretty much like hopping into any mid 90's vehicle; fire it up and go!
    It just makes everything more fun!
     
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  18. Sep 30, 2021
    scott milliner

    scott milliner Master Fabricator

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    I've not been adding anything to this post. You guys are using an aftermarket system. I have the factory 1995 GM 4.3ltr setup. FYI
     
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