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D30 Upgrade

Discussion in 'Builds and Fabricators Forum' started by jzeber, Dec 28, 2016.

  1. Jan 1, 2017
    jpflat2a

    jpflat2a what's that noise?

    Hermosa, SD
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    Normal to see on the locking hubs. Casting marks or whatever.
     
  2. Jan 1, 2017
    jzeber

    jzeber Well-Known Member 2022 Sponsor

    Morgan Hill, Ca
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    As far as I can tell you have to remove the brake line to change the brakes.
    I'll check out the ford hub write up.

    I need to measure the rotors Tarry and do a bit more research on this axle. The info Jim gave me seems to be correct. 1979 had 2 bolt caliper mounts from a post above.
     
    Last edited: Jan 5, 2017
  3. Jan 1, 2017
    jzeber

    jzeber Well-Known Member 2022 Sponsor

    Morgan Hill, Ca
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    Thanks, I think I remember that from my old Warn from my D27.
     
  4. Jan 1, 2017
    jzeber

    jzeber Well-Known Member 2022 Sponsor

    Morgan Hill, Ca
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    From Wheelie's post: 1979-1981 the calipers are keyed to the mounting bracket. Going to search around on how that works. I am not really sure what that means. They also went from Warn premium hubs to Warn standard hubs during those years.
     
  5. Jan 1, 2017
    jzeber

    jzeber Well-Known Member 2022 Sponsor

    Morgan Hill, Ca
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    Rotors are 7/8 inch. Exactly what the write up shows for 79-81.
     
  6. Jan 1, 2017
    tarry99

    tarry99 Member

    Northern California
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    Lots of Disc brake changes in the years following up to 1979 ............77-78 had the Big Brake option with the thicker 1.200 " rotors and warn 6 bolt premium hubs , 7/8" rotors would confirm the 1979 brake package...normally they refer to either the 2 or 6 bolt brakes..........and that was a reference to the caliper mounting bracket......yours the 2 bolt and the big brake package in 77-78 had a 6 bolt mount.

    When you took those calipers off did you removed the mount and the caliper as 1 piece?
    The release parts and clips that hold the caliper to the mount should look like this:[​IMG]
     
  7. Jan 1, 2017
    jzeber

    jzeber Well-Known Member 2022 Sponsor

    Morgan Hill, Ca
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    Found this web page for replacing the brakes. My Jeep CJ5 Page - Front Brakes
    I am going to get new calipers, pads and rotors anyway so no big deal. I should be able to change pads using the above method without removing the entire bracket. I have a friend with a small ford pick up that used a similar set up.
    The rotors must be rusted to the hubs, I can't get them off and they seem to just slide on over the hubs?....... more research.
     
  8. Jan 1, 2017
    jzeber

    jzeber Well-Known Member 2022 Sponsor

    Morgan Hill, Ca
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    Yes, lesson learned but they had to come off anyway, very rusty.
     
  9. Jan 1, 2017
    jzeber

    jzeber Well-Known Member 2022 Sponsor

    Morgan Hill, Ca
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    Ok hubs and rotors come off as 1 whole package.
     
  10. Jan 2, 2017
    Bajatransit

    Bajatransit Member

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    Why do I get an error message that I do not have permission to see these photos when I click on any of them? Hmmm
     
  11. Jan 2, 2017
    wheelie

    wheelie beeg dummy 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor

    York, PA
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    That stinks. But I think it was common design back then. Modern stuff is more user friendly, in that respect, with separate rotors. Old Ford 3/4 and 1 tons had the huge rear drums and hubs (FF rear axles) as one which meant you had to pull the axles to get the brake drum off. That has changed and the rear drums come off separately. Not sure when that changed. Mid 80's I'm thinking.
     
  12. Jan 2, 2017
    tarry99

    tarry99 Member

    Northern California
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    I think that year still had a separate hub & rotor...........but the fit was tight and if rusted they may just look like 1 piece.
     
  13. Jan 2, 2017
    jzeber

    jzeber Well-Known Member 2022 Sponsor

    Morgan Hill, Ca
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    Hopefully I get some time to work on this today. I went and picked up an easy out. Hopefully this is the case and I can get them separated. Ill have to look at the website I was on last night and confirm.
     
  14. Jan 2, 2017
    jzeber

    jzeber Well-Known Member 2022 Sponsor

    Morgan Hill, Ca
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    I did a tie rod flip on my D27, looks like I should do the same on this. Any place other than OK 4 wheel drive that sells the sleeves? $14 each!
     
  15. Jan 2, 2017
    jpflat2a

    jpflat2a what's that noise?

    Hermosa, SD
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    The wheel studs hold them together. No swadging involved. Press out the studs ( or BFH) and they will separate.
     
  16. Jan 2, 2017
    jzeber

    jzeber Well-Known Member 2022 Sponsor

    Morgan Hill, Ca
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    Thanks Jim,
    I was planning to change all the wheel studs anyway, super rusty.
     
  17. Jan 2, 2017
    tarry99

    tarry99 Member

    Northern California
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    Yep, there is a few others out there.........I have used these before , Goferit Products! ............Takes a big drill and the part needs to be clamped down........If you don't have a way to do that , Bring them up here and I can drill them.
    If you have not already upgraded your tie rod ends and drag link to 1-ton size ends now's the time.
     
    Posimoto likes this.
  18. Jan 2, 2017
    Daryl

    Daryl Sponsor

    Bonney Lake, WA
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    The studs just pop in and out. Really easy with a brass drift.
     
  19. Jan 2, 2017
    jzeber

    jzeber Well-Known Member 2022 Sponsor

    Morgan Hill, Ca
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    Thanks Tarry,
    I have a reamer I bought to do my 27. If I have any troubles I will let you know. Going to check out the Goferit sleeves.
     
  20. Jan 4, 2017
    jzeber

    jzeber Well-Known Member 2022 Sponsor

    Morgan Hill, Ca
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    I knew I should have stayed away from the "easy out". Now I have a hub bolt and an easy out stuck. On to plan B. Drill out the easy out, drill the head off the allen and hopefully get the hub cover off.
     
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