Dauntless Clutch Replacement

Agreed. LuK is OEM on many vehicles for good reason - excellent quality. On the only Jeep I've had that needed a clutch, my 67 Commando, I bought a LuK clutch. Remember to resurface the flywheel for smooth operation as well as long life.

 

That sounds about right to me.
I have both of those versions in NOS condition.
One is a 3 finger with 9 springs and the other is a 3 finger with 12 springs.
I'll likely remove 3 of the springs from the 12 spring clutch.

 

I installed a Luk diaphragm clutch from RockAuto in my 70 CJ-5 (V6) this summer and it worked out very well. I think the Luk is slightly easier to depress than the Valeo.

 

Yes 3 finger Borg Beck and Dana pressure plates were standard beginning in 1969.
V-6 CJ 's prior to 1969 all had Borg Beck brand of diaphram type pressure plates.
All driven disk were Borg Beck manufactured.
I have all the above in OEM NOS condition.

In fact I just bought this one a few days ago.
You will notice its a 12 spring pressure plate.... so I will want to remove 3 springs.

 

Just did a sac's in my dads 67. resurface your flywheel, put a rear main seal in, your clutch linkage rod ends will probably be warn as well. and get the rebuild kit for the torque tube (cheap).

 

No linkage or torque tube on a 1970 but I appreciate the input.

 

Take a close look at your motor mounts.

 

Newfangled Jeeps.....Cables are for silly persons.

 

Newfangled. ...46 years old LOL
Actually, the cable setup works pretty well if (big if) you get a good quality clutch cable.

 

Necroposting here, but this is a fine and helpful thread. However, can someone translate the above comment?

A. Resurface flywheel - understood. Got a machine shop lined up
B. Rear main seal - what/where is that?
C. Clutch linkage rod ends - not sure what this means
D. What’s a “torque tube”?

‘68 V6 here, all standard as far as I can tell...

 

Old Post , but here goes!.................#B Rear main seal is the crankshaft seal under the pan but directly adjacent to the clutch on the outside if it's seeping or leaking and your changing a clutch.....now's the time to fix the oil leak.
#C........the basic clutch linkage from the pedal.........same as above if it's loose and warn fix it.
#D.......I assume he is talking about the rubber bushing on the transmission mount........that goes between the mount and the transfer case..........if it's worn out or covered with oil and all of these items are on the ground in front of you while your servicing the clutch.......change them.

 

I think torque tube is referring to the main piece of linkage between the frame rail and trans/t.case, the thing the rod from the pedal connects to, and the cable going to the throwout fork connects to.
The pivot studs on either end tend to wear, and the holes where the clevis pins go through also wear.
Severe wear at all of these points can make clutch adjustment nearly impossible.
-Donny

 

Bellcrank?

 

Torque tube = Clutch Release Bellcrank 5360104

 

Willys refers to this item as the clutch control " lever and tube assembly"

 

So... do we have consensus on the definition of the torque tube? It’s the “lever and tube assembly/bell crank” that the clutch lever pivots on?

 

That's where my vote is!