Buick 225 V-6 Rolls With The Key And No Start Now

I have been messing with this for several weeks now. Recharged the battery charger today. replaced rotor cap and distributor cap today, coil, ballast resistor and wiring and (posted that here for all reference for all of us) replaced ignition switch two weeks ago, new paper filter a week ago, won't start on ETHER spray, going now to pull all plugs and clean them, Maybe 7 months old, ( I pulled the plugs and passenger side rear was chalky white) (drivers side rear was oily ish) (the other four looked normal grey with some black) (I know the carb is set toward rich for fuel). Fuel is available at the jets in the Holley. I drove it yesterday for a friend's funeral display. There was a 30 mile an hour (high speed stall) when returning from the cemetery. The engine used to start on the 2 or 3rd roll, now it takes a long time. I am done thinking incorrectly, Help

 

check/change condenser . got to have spark first going to next thing

 

I am sure that I have the points and condenser as a single unit on a single plate NOW. What conditions must be met to change them out? Even if I only have the original individual parts, it has been too long since I changed them out.

 

What is your dwell? Should be 32*. The uniset points need to be set with an allen tool while running .

 

Short version for our ADD crowd posted weeks later.
Both points and condenser were shot (there is a small fiber/plastic guy that the points arm rides on the breaker cam in the distributer) It was worn off the uniset arm, they are 9 years old. Wire to starter from Ignition burnt from exhaust manifold gasket leak. More to read later in the thread. This burnt, now grounded, wire MAY have cooked the points faces. There was transfer of titanium between the points contact faces.

Walt, I do NOT know these answers.
I am in an engine roll (it is cranking with the starter) but a no start (run) situation right now. Do I have to be at TOP DEAD CENTER for piston number one to check 32 degrees on the points set? How do I check for 32 degrees? (with a flat gauge!) And equally important, how do I guarantee I get to TDC.
For today, can I adjust the allen head nut to adjust the points until I get a start on the set of points and condenser that are there now. And then replace when I finally get it to start? I found my last set of combined condenser and points set.

Editing 10 days later, I do not need TDC, to change points and condenser. I will need TDC to replace the distributor.

To guarentee TDC, remove number one plug from a clean head plug socket on a 225 v6, (front passenger side plug), roll engine with a breaker bar, UNPLUG THE CENTER WIRE TO THE COIL TOO, a 12 inch shaft thin number one screwdriver shaft is inserted into the plug hole, Check the height of the insertion of the screwdriver several times by removing the screwdriver several times, when the screwdriver is tall in the hole, with a finger tip along the side of the screwdriver handle, rotate the engine with a breaker bar and socket IN THE OTHER HAND to TDC. Understand that there is an 18 degree flat area of 360 degrees circle for piston rotation, this co-insides with the DWELL you require for the points.

When the points are closed, the Breaker Cam is on the bottom of a lobe in the distributor, the spark fires the cylinder chamber, the valves are closed to drive that cylinder around to the next one.
vroom vroom

 

you can try,to set em cant hurt

 

old school tool for setting points dwell meter . good for gm . not so much for others . I still have and use mine . but mostly for rpm reading . doing it with filler gauge I think its .016

 

So since you all answered, I was into youtube and found no direct instructions for our v-6's.
Twin2 IF all that IS required is replacement, why not just change out the set and be done, get a start and adjust like Walt stated above?
I have two sears/Penske multiple test sets and forgot how to use them. I cannot find the instructions for them, both have a dwell setting.

 

Dwell is the best. A match book is about perfect if setting them in the stix. Line a high point up so they are open stuff the match book in adjust till just a tiny drag on removal, cleans em too.

 

Red battery clip to + on the battery, black battery clip to - on the battery and the small alligator clip to the - side of the coil. Set the switches or knobs for your engine. Start it up and read.

 

Thanks Tom I love clear instructions

Talking to the non racers in the shop today...
Label and remove all plugs (really clean the head socket with a vacuum cleaner WHERE THE PLUG GOES) (now you cannot build compression in the cylinder), spin engine ON THE NUT of the crankshaft with a wrench (nuts, hate that) toward TDC on piston number one.
If I am timed properly, what indicator should I see on the counter balance and tab for TDC? Do I shine a light into the head to check the piston top height?

 

I really don't understand this tdc thing . when your only changing points and condenser . as stated above install points and bump engine till rubbing bock is on high lode , set to .016 . or set dwell to 30° when engine is running . once points are set check timing

 

Thanks
writing later
I do NOT need TDC FOR THE POINTS CHANGE OUT, I do have to be on top of any of the six lobes on the breaker cam of a 225 v-6 in the distributer. By top, I want to ensure that the points are open to SET THE GAP with the allen wrench on the arm of the points with a feeler gauge. .016 is the correct one. By bottom of the breaker cam, the plastic fiber guy is in the valley and is closer to the center of the distributer shaft which the points arm operates from.

 

Did you get it going ok?

 

Hi Walt
No
What component is missing here. No spark at the plug, none. Going to youtube to see how to test a coil. Checking all the wiring again soon. Must run a continuity check for the wire from the negative side of the coil to the distributor.

So a young guy around the corner from me has exceptional eyesight compared to my bifocals. He noticed that the distributor lug that the plastic guy on the points set is loose on the shaft. It slides almost 1/8 of an inch up. I do know if that is an issue also.

Cable from Positive Battery post to the kill switch in the dash board. From the kill switch on the dash back down to the starter solenoid ,big lug, in the center. On the inner, toward the engine, smaller 3/16 nut size lug gets a 10 gauge wire from the ignition switch, via the ballast resistor then to the coil positive. I have to check everything again. I know I am missing something.

 

TDC is found by removing the spark plug from the number one cylinder and turning the engine over by hand with a breaker bar. If you have a compression gauge you can remove the Schrader valve and use the screwed in hose to find TDC, you will feel air coming out of the hose if you have you finger over it. This should coincide with your timing marks being lined up on the crank shaft.

That's where you shine your timing light.

Be super Careful with your HANDS and the spinning fan blade and Pullys if you are a adjusting timing.

 

I am not clear on my understanding. Can you show a picture of this?

This statement is correct. Your engine is cranking so no issues here. Even if the ignition bypass wire (smaller 3/16 nut size lug gets a 10 gauge wire from the ignition switch) is on the wrong side of the ballast resistor it will still start or at least have some spark.

The design of the uni-set points makes it near impossible to set initial points gap with a feeler gauge (due to design). May be better at this point to install a standard set of points and condenser for ease of point setting.

 

What is name of the component of a distributor that the points ride against? I see what I think is excessive wear on the 6 high portions (lobes). There is a thin metal cupped edge (points up about a 1/8) washer type guy that this component sits in and the points cannot ride onto this area, because of the lip inside the distributer. What is within the 1/16ish lip at the base and above the lip of the cup difference show wear. This (nut) sits 3/4 of an inch tall. Adding both opposing sides of this 6 sided (nut) that the points ride on is estimated at 1/20 of an inch. Missing that much face of the (nut), does my point gap even exist now?
Once we name that nut, cam, what ever; will I have to make it at the shop OR is that 6 sided part available to buy?

I have a spare engine with a distributor in it. I will compare the two worn (nuts) to see if the (nut) guy is really terribly worn. If not, I will find TDC on number one, Front Left Piston RIGHT?, AND exchange distributors. This is my next move soon.

 

It is called the breaker cam. You will not be able to make this item. The breaker cam assy is a piece within itself. It is re-moveable from the main shaft and can be replaced with a part of kind. The six lobes are equal to each other and have smooth surfaces. NO grooves. Do you have the service manual for you model jeep? A pictorial breakdown will be of help to you.

 

If the breaker cam is worn, you would see a trough worn into the cam from the fiber block on the points. The material of the block on the points is fiber so that the block wears out and not the cam. If you see that the cam is worn, I expect the practical way to replace it is to buy a remanufactured distributor that's less worn out. Really, I'm not convinced that a little wear of the cam is going to affect the performance of the distributor. The Jeep is not going to suddenly stop running because the distributor cam has worn out. The wear should be the same on each lobe and not matter as long as the cam has enough lift to separate the points.

BTW you are supposed to put a tiny bit of grease on the cam when you replace the points. Been a loooong time since I've replaced points, but IIRC new points came with a little vial of grease ... the Blue Streak points included a felt wick impregnated with lube that would constantly wipe the cam.

I believe that the usual problem with old distributors is the bushings that support the shaft wear out and let the shaft flop around in the housing.