Brake Identification Info

One thing was not mentioned. The driveshaft yoke for the v6 on the dana 18 is different than the the 4 cylinder. You need the 4 cylinder model and the front driveshaft for the dana 30 will need to be modified.

These are the things to change or modify for a dana 30 swap with disks.

Spring plates, modify, I made mine to fit right
Driveshaft, dana 18 yoke
Caster, most likely changed
U-bolts for front spring plates
Brake lines (front)
Master cylinder, remove stock 10b residual pressure valve for front brakes
You will need to add residual pressure valve for front disk 2lb, Wilwood blue one

 

Hey John
All four axles I have are geared to 3.73 But how do I tell the difference in series?

Mike
I did read a thread about using the same size U joints as the rear drive shaft. Is this the same idea by using the 4 cylinder transfer case yoke?
Also when you say modified I'm guessing (Shorted?).
All super good info.
What about the steering connection?
I have the Tie rod on the 30 and also the other rod that goes to the pit-man arm. (I always forget the proper names)
I'm thinking that would attach to what I think is the bell crank on the 71 (Ross Box set up)?

Could somebody post the 1976 thru 78 FSM pages for the brake info?
My SM-1046 I have has no info for the Disc brakes.

 

Yes, the u joint for the 4 cylinder is the same as the rear. The driveshaft will need to be shortened slightly.
Forgot about the bell rank connection but yes that will have to be addressed. I have Saginaw so it's not the same.

 

bell rank :iagree:
Some day I will convert to the Saginaw.

I know the Model is the Dana 44 rear but what is the SERIES?

 

If you have 3:73 gears in all it doesn't matter, the series refers to the breaking point of the gear ratios that will fit on the case if you have to change gears.

 

That makes sense.
Thank You!

 

Ummmm, my '70, with what I assume is the stock D27, mounts the shocks in front of the axle.....

 

Might want to re-read Lynn's post. That's what he said. POST '71 (i.e. '72 and newer) mount behind the axle.

 

Ok, yeah, my reading comprehension skills need improved apparently. The wording still feels off in lynns post, but I see what he was getting at.

Sorry about that.

 

Ran into a snag.
How do you remove the hub?
I though there would be some lock nuts and washers.
Rather ask than destroy.
Thanks Dawgy

 

There are allen head set screws in three of the little holes you see. Dig out the grease and you will see them. back them out and the lcok nut comes off.

 

Mr Tim Reese
Thank You Very Much!

 

Can someone teach me how to remove the ball joints from the knuckle?

Thanks Dawgy

 

I beat mine out with a BFH. You can use a ball joint press too. I have read that people who have heated them had them explode, so don't do that. The Harbor fright press is terrible, but will work for one job maybe. I ruined mine, then took it back. It is a POS because it uses regular threads when they should be acme. You get what you pay for. You could also use a press if you had a correct way to support the knuckle and not bend it.

 

So there is no snap ring or any kind of keeper?

 

Might be. I can't remember specifically about my D30. I think there was a groove that didn't have a snap ring in it. Take a wire brush and clean that top part. If there is one use a cold chisel and a hammer to remove it. It will probably break. I then beat out the ball joint from the threaded part inward. I may have used a small propane torch to just warm the knuckle, but to much and it will probably maybe could explode, so be careful.

these guys have put a lot of info in this thread
http://www.earlycj5.net/forums/show...ck-Dana-30-iteration-questions&highlight=dana

 

Thank You!
Chris
I will post up later if I was successful or not.

 

Some have a snap ring, some do not. Some knuckles are machined for the snap ring to go on the ball joint, some not. Most new ball joints do come with the option. If you cannot get the snap ring on don't worry about it, just make sure the ball joints are seated fully. It's a good idea to lightly clean the bores and the recesses before installing the new ones. I'd highly recommend using a ball joint press for installation at least so you don't damage the ball joint or the knuckle. Many auto parts stores rent them reasonably.

 

I would not consider doing the install of new ball joints without a ball joint press. If you are taking them apart to replace with new it does not matter if you wreck them, but you want to install them correctly without issue.

 

Posting some pictures of the success.
Neutered Knuckle.

Future reference.
Make sure the longer Ball Joint goes on top.
Nice visual what direction also.

Here is an Idea how I was pressing them out.Should have pictured the first removal but forgot.

Can I or Should I press off the grit Guards?
Looks like there is a seal that needs replacing.
Worked on the Knuckles and the Axles today.

I haven't even ordered parts yet. My progress is slow only get to work on the Jeep one day a week at best.
Nick and Chris Thank You for the help.
As you can see I have decided to rebuild the Dana 30.
Still not sure if I will use the 11" drums front and back for now or Disc/Drum due to cost.(New wheels and Brake Parts).
I have yet to work on the rear Axle and figure out that cost.
Thanks Dawgy