Pretty sure I scored.

I've been researching how to get a t18 in my 75 cj5. As most of you know there are a lot of avenues to make this happen. Well, I found a complete 78 cj5 with a 4 spd 10 miles from my home. Sold as a parts jeep because no title and DMV fees. I was concerned that the trans might have been swapped at some point so I pulled it last night. Guess what. Original 6.32:1 trans. The 78 also has front disk brakes and power steering which I would like for my 75. So through my reading I think I can use the 78 bell housing (t18 to 258 ) for my 304. Can I use the driveshafts off of the 78 as well? Not sure about rear since it is a AMC 20 I think.

 

T18a to 258. Don't know what happened there.

 

This 8) makes a smiley unless you turn it off on the "advanced" reply.

The bell housing will bolt right up - use the throwout arm and release bearing from the 4-speed donor. The clutch should be the same, since both the 304 and the 258 used the 10.5" disk and pressure plate ("heavy duty" 258 and regular 304 clutch is the same). I'd expect the front drive shaft to work fine. Not sure about the rear. Measure, measure, measure. The cross member is quite different, so you'll have to sort out the transmission mount. Clutch linkage you'll have to try and see.

Yep, sounds like a score to me!

 

Thanks Tim. I've been cleaning almost 40 yrs. of grime off of the trans and tc. I dropped them as on piece. The lazy and impatient side of me wants to just clean it up and put it in the 75. The smarter side says to at least pul the top cover off and check it out. I don't have any experience digging into transmissions. What would you suggest?

 

A lot easier to pull the covers and take a look see while they're sitting on the floor. My greatest concern would be water.

 

what's the VIN on the Jeep?
might reveal whether the 4spd is factory or not
should also be a then metal tag under one of the shift tower bolts or on the transfer case

 

jp, vin shows 4spd and tag shows 13-01, case shows t18-1b. Duff,gonna pull the covers then. Thanks

 

I would definitely go through it beforehand, you've waited this long. In my limited experience Ive created more problems by hurrying instead of taking my time and making sure it's right.

 

I wasn't aware that Jeep offered a wide ratio T18 in a CJ. I thought they were close ratio only.

 

What I have read is that '77-'79 cj's got the wide ratio. Here are a couple of pics of my tranny. I am curious about the yellow plug on top. All pics that I have found don't have this hole in the top of the case. It is threaded. You can see that the shaft behind the hole is rusted. Does anyone have an idea of what this hole is for?

 

What I have read is that '77-'79 cj's got the wide ratio. Here are a couple of pics of my tranny. I am curious about the yellow plug on top. All pics that I have found don't have this hole in the top of the case. It is threaded. You can see that the shaft behind the hole is rusted. Does anyone have an idea of what this hole is for?

 

Quit Guessing..............pull the top cover and count the teeth inside on the front input shaft...............should be 17 for a 6:32 low.

 

I will be pulling the top off once I have everything cleaned up a little better. No guessing on the ratio. I counted input revolutions to one output revolution. Just curious about this hole in the top.

 

The wide ratio transmission was only offered '77-79. They are not plentiful. Prior to that, all CJs and Commandos got the narrow ratio T-18, when available.

 

If it's the 3-4 rail, then the hole is for transmission controlled spark (TCS), when so equipped. 3-speed CJs from that era also had TCS. Using a plastic plug to fill these holes is typical of Jeep from that era.

5358092 is the correct PN for a T-18 from a 1978 CJ-5 or CJ-7, or a service part for a 1977 model. Factory equipment.

 

Thanks Tim. So here it is opened up. Im not really sure what I'm looking for besides the obvious rust. Donor jeep sat for 13 years. The rust on the large gear is the worst of it. There is minimal rust on the other gears where they were facing up or maybe down. Most of it wiped off. I've got about 1/32 - 1/16 in. of side to side play on the input shaft. No play in and out. I don' see any gear damage unless the teeth on the large gear pictured are all chipped of on one end. I've never been into a trans before. I'd appreciate any input or advise. Thanks.

 

I have run transmissions that looked like that after taking them apart and using a wire wheel to buff out the rust and worked fine for thousands of miles and I have done the same thing and had them fail in 5 miles. If you're going to run that transmission, its going to need to come apart. Now might be a good time to try your hand at transmission repair. At this point you have nothing to lose and everything to gain in the form of educating yourself.

I also don't have an issue with pulling a transmission and putting it back in every day for a week until I got it right.....

 

Personally, for myself, I do have a problem with dropping the trans weekly. I have a Jeep with a three speed to satisfy my urges until this trans is ready. I am struggling with my own confidence in rebuilding this thing without screwing it up. Thankfully I'll have the input from this forum to help me along the way. My first question would be, should I go with a full rebuild kit?

 

Just read last post. Seemed like a dumb final question. I will look into a rebuild kit.

 

Once in and rebuilt right the first time is all you need.............Yes on a complete rebuild kit w/bearings & syncro's , and Yes that large First & Reverse sliding Gear has , broken and damaged teeth and should be replaced........you might also want to look at the reverse Idler gear which is below and to the rear of where that large Sliding gear is and meshes with when put into Reverse as it also could be damaged..........and also look at the Counter shaft ....which is the large compound gear that is in the bottom of the case. The last gear in line meshes with that large First & Reverse slider that is chipped up.........it may be that both need replacing...........look at all the gears that mesh with that large slider that is chipped...........common problem with No syncro's in 1st or reverse gear.

All of that rust needs to come off while apart and the case flushed.

Did you count the teeth on that front input shaft inside?