AA Tapered Bearing Conversion

On some Teralow installations there can be contact between the low range gear and the end of the front output shift rail. I had some slight contact, not enough to damage the gear, but enough to make some noise. I clearanced the shaft a little.

 

Looking Good ............should be less noisy now............in regards to your leaks, how were your vents?

 

Howard: Good guess, but, no. I mean, it is, but that's not it.

Terry: I ran a vent hose up to the firewall. Venting wasn't an issue, rather IMHO, it was a very sloppy assembly job. None of the bolts going into the case had thread sealer of any kind when I received it. Also, the rear bore for the intermediate shaft was very rough and was oozing oil. I don't know if it was just a bad casting (doubtful) but the bore had gouges in it that looked like maybe someone drove the shaft out and some of the rollers tried to come out with it. I installed the intermediate shaft with a liberal amount of silicone in that area to try to eliminate that source. I'll have to run it to find out. Hopefully some time next week.

 

Yeah ..... the cheap AA castle nut that I received does not even thread down far enough to insert a cotter pin.

 

mounting bolt for the rear cap hitting the intermediate gear?
bottom cover not installed?

 

looks like one gear is only making half the contact with the other which would make it really weak?

 

I see a speedo driven gear laying on the bench.

 

Mine didn't make it to the hole either. Plus I don't think that setup really lets you adjust the bearings to that perfect spot. Castle nuts with cotter pins are always a poor compromise.

To the rest of you guys, good guesses, but no. Actually I'm going to be surprised if anyone gets the right answer. I'll tell all Thurs. night.

 

Hmmm
Mine didn't have the 3 grooves for the o ring.
It did have the too thick castle nut that I had to grind down to make work mehh

 

That sliding gear doesn't have a place for the shift fork. At least not to the rear of the case. Something trick or is my sliding gear in backwards?

Here's mine.

 

wheelie got it. I screwed up and put the low range gear in backwards on the first try. The shift fork groove is hidden on the wrong side. Wish I could say you won a big prize, but you get a gold star for seeing what I thought no-one would figure out.

colojeepguy: I also have an older AA conversion that has the single o-ring style adjuster collar. Maybe the 3 groove is something new.

 

Getting close to being able to start the Heep after two months of down time. Got the OD put back in today, a task I always love. A curse on the engineer who came up with the special washer and snapring concept. Hoping to start it up tomorrow and take it for a little ride, see if anything leaks.

 

I ended up using a piece of 3/8" steel rod from Ace Hardware. It was slightly undersized but did the trick. I packed the planetaries with vaseline then used a pair of tweezers to put the rollers in. 32 roller bearings in each gear. The pins that they ride on are a pretty tight press fit and I was pleasantly surprised at how well everything went together.

 

A little update. I had sent the intermediate pin back to Herm so he could see the wear on it. Look back at the beginning of this thread for a picture of the pin. That pin had less than 1000 miles on it. Way less. I've contacted Herm three times since then and I get the same story every time. He is waiting for someone to come and check the calibration on his Rockwell hardness testing machine. I don't need a machine to tell me that either that pin was put in with wear on it ie. a used part or it has little to no hardness or the hardening is so shallow as to be meaningless. To date I have received nothing from Herm, either to compensate me for the useless pin or even the postage to send the pin back to him. Others may have better luck with him, but as for me I'm done with ATV Manufacturing.

Also, I am very happy with the Advance Adapter tapered bearing setup and I would recommend it to anyone running a D18 or D20 t-case.

 

If Herm has a real hardness tester there should be a calibration test plate with it to calibrate his machine with.

 

Portable Rockwell testers or at least availability to them is really quite common........I've had this one for years. Not sure why Herm would think that was somehow exclusive? ...........
And to Mcruff's point , just re-calibrate it with the test block and your good to go again.............fact is that shaft that Posi had issues with was probably some off shore junk that missed the QC department when the boat left early...........which brings up the reason I always ask the supplier if they have heat treat test reports for the lot or items they are selling.........Both Novak & AA do a pretty good job of staying on top of there heat treat QC when it comes to shafts since that is a major part of there core business.

 

My issue is that I bought the Teralow case from Herm for $1,100 and had to do a complete rebuild after 1 short season of use. When I received the case none of the bolts had sealer on them, there was no endplay on the rear output and the intermediate shaft was obviuosly either offshore junk or was a used pin to start with. I also had to grind on the 4wd shift rail because it was making contact with the intermediate gearset which is pointed out as a possible issue in the Teralow instructions. After all of this was brought to Herm's attention I got exactly zero from him. No "sorry you had those problems" not even an offer to re-imburse me for the shipping on the pin I sent back to him for the testing that was never done.

 

I don't want to knock Herm but I have never had him do any work for me because I get questionable replies from him whenever I asked a question.