Pertronix, vacuum, mechanical fuel pump relationship? 67 Jeep died/limped home

Morning all. I've looked at older posts that revolve around these topics but I don't quite have it all down. My 67 w/225 v6 suddenly started running extremely rough on my way home from a Home Depot run (luckily it's very close to home). This jeep is new to me and I've only had it for a month or so. It has a very fresh professional rebuild that's been running seemingly ver smooth. I usually drive it pretty gingerly but I was feeling more confident and hammered down a little. Not long after that is when the poor running started. FYI, Jeep has a delco dizzy and I've never adjusted or checked points. I pulled the air cleaner and when I eventually got it running after pulling over, fuel intermittently squirts into the carb, not a steady stream when I pull throttle. My initial thought is fuel pump? When I limped home, I couldn't really accelerate and had a few backfires over the course of a few blocks. I am wanting to replace the points with pertronix 1165 kit and matching epoxy filled coil (my coil is actually visibly cracked). I've also never checked vacuum either. So my noob questions are these:
Should I order the fuel pump, filter, pertronix and coil (since I'll most likely replace all parts anyway) THEN start testing vacuum/timing/fuel?
Will I need the vacuum advance if I replace the points?
Would a failing pump only INTERMITTENTLY load the carb with fuel when the throttle is moved?

Sorry for the dumb questions...I'm just getting started in diving in to old motor projects.

 

Update....this morning the jeep seems to start and run fine. Thoughts? Quick acceleration causes stall or hesitation too, but it did that before too.

 

Replace the fuel filter, first. Bet it is junked up.

When the mechanical pump on my F-head 4 started to give up after 50 years of operation, it became intermittent as to quitting. So, yes the pump failing could only intermittently fill the carb. Finally quit all together and I replaced it with an electric one.

I would think the pump on yours would be new, what with the engine being a fresh rebuild. Could have picked up crud from the tank and either clogged the filter or is blocking the inlet to the carb partially.
You might want to pull the top of the carb and check for crud in the bowl, too.


You could have gotten a bad batch of gas, too, the last time you filled up.

 

Then check the stuff going from the cheapest to replace to the most costly to replace.

 

Thanks everyone. 1960willys, what is the benefit of going to an electric pump? Is it just a simple one mounted on the frame rail for ease of use? Would/did you have to plug the hole where the mechanical pump was or can you mod it to just be a pass-through?
I love that everyone seems to know so much more than me! Wealth of knowledge on this forum for sure!

 

Don't give up on the pump yet. The pump has two valves inside that sometimes get blocked open with debris. Remove the lines in and out and blow compressed air through the pump. Connect a temp hose to the outlet side and see if you can blow air by mouth back through the pump. If not then connect everything back up with new filter and check pump for volume and pressure. The pump should not bleed back down.

 

I would replace the cracked coil first, then move to the pump. I don't think the petronix requires a new vac advance unit, but does a new coil.

 

Sounds to me like the accelerator pump in your carb. If you press the throttle and a steady stream does not come out, that is the problem. That would lead to trouble accelerating and stalling if you press the gas quickly.

 

Ok another update. I got a new fuel filter, adjusted the point gap, but don't have a timing light so that's still a possible issue. I also tried to blow back into the fuel pump and I couldn't so I think it's still good. I'm going to order the pertronix and coil this week hopefully to update that side of the equation. The jeep starts and runs well for now. I put in a tach this afternoon so now I can watch my rpms as a side note. Jeep idles well at 700rpm, but still a considerable hesitation when you hit the pedal with anything other than normal force. My carb is getting good fuel streams now upon throttle actuation. I don't have access to a vacuum gauge, but I think I can rent one to get the idle mixture down pat.
As a side note also, I just replaced the accelerator pump in the old 2bbl about a month ago so it should be trucking along just fine I hope.
when I pulled the dizzy cap, it looks like the PO had just replaced everything...nice and shiny parts in there. New spark plug wires and plugs too from the looks of things.

I've seen it mentioned before, but how will changing to pertronix fix hesitations? Assuming the vacuum advance still applies, are the plugs just getting a hotter bigger spark to ignite the increased fuel load?

 

As previously said, your coil is visibly cracked? Do you have the proper coil to begin with? Your jeep uses an external ballast and a coil that is designed for external ballast. If someone has removed or bypassed the ballast then the original coil would have been getting too much voltage and would cause it to over heat. When a coil over heats it swells and will split open and loose internal cooling oil. Bypassing the ballast will also cause premature burning of the points. The coil could have burned internal wiring which will cause the engine to fail when the coil gets hot but will crank back up when cold.

 

going to a petronix unit sends a much higher voltage to the ignition system. Better starts, smoother accelerations, eliminates engine miss associated with points, im sure there are a few more benefits I cant think of right now. I've never used the petronix unit, I was going to until a HEI dist was given to me.

 

Local autozone said they stopped renting anything electronic...sounds like they all grew legs. I can check a few more places, but in the end to buy one for $30 might not be the worst thing.
Walt, the coil has a crack across the top of it, small, but there nonetheless. Were the original coils all oil filled?
The wiring was in shambles from the PO, and he had taken out the ballast, voltage regulator was unhooked, and all wires to the original alternator were cut. I had to rewire the ignition and light switch..he even had a generic push button with a household extension cord as the starter switch! I added a new ballast resistor and put in a delco 10si 63 amp unit and it's charging well now. So as a first step now, coil and then matching pertronix sound like #1 priority?

 

Sounds like your on your way to recovery. These babies can be cantankerous at times and more so when in the hands of those who don't know and/or don't care.

 

If you had never cleaned the the points, AND there was a no ballast resistor, it could well be the initial problem was the points getting fried. A new set would be a good idea. (You can set the timing statically without a light and it will be close enough.)

 

This is what I learned on the forum - the engine was stopping on slow, no idle and when I was pressing the accelerator it was ok.
I cleaned the filter of the accelerator pump (which I checked by the same operation) and afterwards : perfect.

There was some herb/flowers pieces glued inside.

 

Update in case you were wondering: I cleaned the points (they were actually packed with grease?!) set the gap, bought a timing light and fixed the accelerator pump that had a crack in the little blue sealing ring. I set the idle and mixture screws as best as I could with my skills and a vacuum gauge, and set the timing back to 5* btdc. It was previously 0*. This has awoken the beast! I'm still going to change to pertronix and matching coil this week as I'm waiting for them to ship, but for now I am very pleased!

As as a side note, maybe this is for a new thread, but when I got on the throttle this time, I got a little death wobble in the front end in 2nd gear going about 25-30 mph. I let off the gas, turned toward the curb to stop the wobble, and applied brakes. It was kinda scary but I wasn't going fast, nor was I on a busy street.
I know I have ross steering, and I haven't inspected the guts of the box, let alone the wheel bearings and whatnot, but what would be the most likely cause? Bad steering stabilizer? Bad ross components? Would a bad wheel bearing be intermittently symptomatic?

 

What can cause wobble=wheel bearings loose/worn/mis-adjusted, tie-rod ends wore out, out of alignment, worn/mis-adjusted ross box, worn king pins, just to name a few.

 

There is a lot of components in old steering system,

Things like bell crank, and drag link can contribute to lots of problems, when you start adding the fact that all of the parts have wear. You end up with death wobble.

Is it only when you are accelerating? You should probably go through steering system and check everything. To make sure it's tight, and in proper place.


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