Building my 66 CJ6 to look capable of things it will never do

I checked the spacers from both the T-86 and the T-90 and they are identical at approx. .295" thick. I pulled the transfer case last night, and I THINK we were successful in not pulling the shaft back far enough to let the bearings fall out of the input gear. Can anyone tell me, is it even possible to pull the mainshaft back that far while it is in the transmission? As I recall, when you tip the mainshaft in to the case, it just barely clears enough to drop the pilot into the main drive gear. I have to get the bearing and small hole adapter off tonight, and that's why I'm asking if it will pull back far enough to let the bearings drop out. I plan to use long bolts in 2 of the transmission to transfer case holes and clamp a piece of steel over the end of the shaft so I can peck, hammer, perhaps air hammer on that race and push that bearing off, then, if the bearing are still in the main drive gear, I can re-assemble. As Homer Simpson would say; DOH! Should have left that spacer in to begin with!

 

I didn't work on it last night. This is what it looks like.



and heres the little devil I left out-intentionally....



and the transfer case sitting on the jack waiting to go back in-as long as I can keep those rollers in the pilot hole on the input gear I think it will go back pretty smoothly. I read another rebuild post and I think the reason mine was tight is that I didn't have the blocking ring lined up with the 3 synchronizers properly.



I appreciate the help I've gotten on this issue so far. Thanks!

 

Not to change the subject, but here is the T-18 and Dana 20 I have sourced to put in the CJ-6 this winter when I rebuild the 225. I have a message in to Novak asking for the adapter needed so I can start accumulating those items. This must be a 1979 T-18 out of a Cherokee, as reverse is over and down. Not bad for $135 I guess, but it remains to be seen if it is easily adapted like the Ford version. This one has a 9-1/2" stickout from the face of the tranny, 10 spline x 1-1/8" shaft with a 3/4 pilot tip, and that's a passenger side drop Dana 20 behind it. If I have to sell it and get a Ford version, I hope I can still mate this Dana 20 up to the Ford case...

 

The D-20 will go up to the back of a BW Ford version with a 1"adapter and there new main shaft..........

 

I used a full size jeep trans and swapped in a ford input (6.5" stickout) and gears (I had a 4:1 trans). IIRC, we were able to catch two mounts with just minor filing. On the passenger side of the trans, we welded up a strap that catches the transmission tabs and places a tab in the right spot for the buick bellhousing. On the drivers side, we had to modify the bellhousing for the lower hole.

I have seen a ford trans drilled for the factory jeep adapter and with a jeep mainshaft swapped in.

 

We successfully removed the bearing and small hole adapter without losing any rollers last night. The shaft slid forward and looks and feels like it should. We installed the spacer, the small hole adapter, and the bearing and it turned smoothly and felt right. Once I bolted the transfer case up, once again I couldn't rotate the shaft by hand. Maybe when the transfer gear and nut are installed it will pull that all back a bit and free it up, but I quit there to think about it and see what your thoughts are. Is that typical? This is why I took the spacer out last time. I can barely strongarm the shaft to move by turning the brake drum on the transfer case....will tightening that nut make that much difference?

 

Something doesn't compute here. You say you haven't installed the transfer case input gear and nut but are trying to turn the transmission output shaft by turning the transfer case output? And have a hard time turning it? That's a transfer case issue or park brake issue. Without the input gear installed there is nothing there to turn the transmission output shaft the way you are doing it.
Get the gear installed and the nut torqued and see if you can turn the transmission output shaft then. The output shaft most likely is pushed forward forcing the 3rd gear blocking ring (synchronizing ring) onto the input shaft cone (effectively trying to lock in 3rd gear). When bolting up the transfer case if the bearing is a tight fit on the transmission output shaft (most are) it will force the output shaft forward. Putting on the gear and tightening the nut pulls the output shaft back against the spacer and hence the bearing which should give you the clearance between the input shaft of the transmission and the 3rd gear blocking ring.

 

We got everything buttoned up last night. Once the nut was torqued down it did free things up, but only a little. It was still difficult to turn with the transfer case drum. I went ahead and drove it. Everything works as intended. There is a little noise from something that is there in all 3 gears, and I'm wondering if it may be the transfer case since I had never run this one before. Tranny was warm after a 5 mile run, but not hot. I think I'm good til the t-18 can go in. Novak seems to think that a t-98 adapter is going to bolt this tranny right up to the 225 bell housing. I've decided to go back with the 225 instead of some other engine due to the amount of work I have in the brake system, electric fan, shock towers, power steering, and other items that could be impacted by changing motors. Thank you to the forum members here who offer their advice when I hit a snag. I do appreciate it. If the sun shines today I'm gonna lay out the soft top and see about installing it for the first time!

 

Drove it about 40 miles for a ride on Sunday. Transmission was (I thought) warmer than it should have been. There is a hole where the PTO lever used to come through the floor and that back cover on the transfer was hot on the 3rd touch with my finger. Tranny shifted well through all the gears. The "fluttering" noise is still there. Something is tighter than it should be. I'm hoping it works ok and I can run it til fall when the T-18 can go in.

 

Got the T-18 / Dana 20 all degreased, wire brushed, and powerwashed in preparation for paint. Black metal flake sounds good. Novak has shipped my adapter, throwout bearing, hydraulic clutch setup, and pilot bushing. Should have it later today. I'll start assembling all of that to the tranny while I source a 9785581 BOP bellhousing for the back of my 225. if anyone has one in excellent condition, I'm a buyer.

 

Here are a few pics of the 6 with the used but new to me soft top. I ordered an omix-ada snap kit and it all went on pretty nicely. It had been cool and rainy here when I installed it-now it will hit 100 here for the 3rd day in a row...

 

Both fit a 225/231 Buick,

Got a used BOP #9774035........that would require some mods to accept the T-18

and a new HD Advanced Adapters #712583 aftermarket bell housing that is a multi-pattern and will take the T-18 directly...........http://www.advanceadapters.com/downloads/712583.pdf

 

i like the tube flat fenders. did you make those?

 

nevermind i just looked back at your posting...sorry

 

Got the T-18 and Dana 20 combo painted. Turned out pretty nice.





And then all of my parts arrived from Novak



I measured and compared and found one aluminum adapter they sent marked "T-18" was identical to the adapter that was already between my 1979 T-18 and the Jeep bellhousing. I'm showing that casting number for your future reference.





I shortened the original front bearing retainer so that it will fit inside the adapter, which then has its own front bearing retainer for the throwout bearing to run on. My number to cut the original to was 2.977" long. You have to keep the original on to hold the bearing in and prevent leaks, as it has a spiral inside that runs the oil back to the tranny.



Here's a shot of the adapter that will bolt to the BOP bellhousing, as soon as I source one. I wonder, will that bolt to my bellhousing once the T-86 adapter is removed....

 

No offense but would have been shorter and cheaper to use a Ford Input shaft, machined front bearing retainer, and pilot bushing reamed to fit the ford input.

This has been covered a lot here.
However, since you spent the money it is looking good.

 

Also, once the T-86 adapter is removed, that should bolt right up. I don't understand why you are trying to source another bellhousing when you should have what you need already?

 

As far as the cost, it hasn't been prohibitive. The length doesn't matter, cause I'm in a CJ-6. Honestly, I still have a bad taste in my mouth from moving the T-90 gears into the T-86 case. That tranny is still running warmer than it should, and makes a ticking sound. I've gone over and over in my head as to what could be wrong, but I always come back to that stupid spacer just being too thick. It works, but I'd hate to drive it 3 or 4 hours at speed cause I think it would gall something. Backroading around here it has been fine. I wasn't eager to tear into this T-18 and take a chance of something being "almost the way it should". Your input has been helpful, and I appreciate it.

As for the bellhousing, I'm just going by what Novak told me. They said I needed a BOP bellhousing with the wide GM Muncie type pattern for the adapter to bolt to. If that is what my current 225 bellhousing is, then I feel dumb for not looking. I wanted to be able to bench assemble everything including the hydraulic clutch setup and then only have to deal with installing or moving my crossmember and installing my TJ hanging clutch pedal.

 

Gotcha. I've converted so many T-18's I forget sometimes it's out of lots of people's comfort zone.
I bet when you remove the T-86 adapter you will find you have the bellhousing you need. Look at the front of the adapter. It should have the same bolt pattern (to the bellhousing) as your T-18 adapter.