CJ3A build

I did this on my '49 and found that the tank is about 2" longer than the early CJ5 from cross member to the rear "bumper". I had to cut the rear one off and install a new bumper at the end of the frame rails so that the under flange of the skid plate would bolt up to the new bumper. I also made it a swing out tire carrier at the same time. Worked out good but modification, non the less.

 

The measurements for both tanks is the same. The early 70s has a longer fill neck. Stich is right the width of the tank is 18.25" and there is only 16" in the CJ3A frame. I guess either move the bumper back or maybe move the cross member ahead to retain the stock look. Anyone have photos of this conversion?

 

I have some in my thread.

http://www.earlycj5.net/forums/showthread.php?74336-1948-cj2a

 

Thanks, I know what parts to get and a good idea of how to install now.

 

OK I am moving on to the body. After a quick assessment I think I am going to have about $1200 in repair panels and misc. parts not to mention time to put it all together to repair my tub. Been thinking about a new tub any suggestions about brand, fiberglass versus steel etc. I can get an Omix-Ada for about $2200 delivered. I heard bad things about these but you can't beat the price.

 

I went to install the shocks today and both front and rear are extended to about an inch of their full travel before they fit. These shocks came with the Rancho 2.5 lift kit. Is this normal or should they be somewhere in the middle of they travel?

 

Always a bit of a balacing act. Jack (on the axle) one corner up until the opposite side is also slightly lifted. The jack side will be close to maximum compression, the other side maximum droop. While the jack side should be against the bumpstop, the shock compression will be slightly more than if measured with the axle flat. Measure those distances and compare to the shock specs to see if they will work properly. The shock shouldn't be bottoming out at either end of the travel.

 

Thanks for the info. These Rancho springs won't hardly give at all I hope they start to give abit when used. Right now I'm not sure I could ever get them close to the bump stop.

 

Got the tank in. Used the 76 and up tank, skid plate and hardware. Had to move the cross member ahead to make it all fit. My only concern is the clearance for the rear differential. Any thoughts? Here is the link http://s1370.photobucket.com/ Thanks!

 

Here is a winter of progress on my build. http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/wb3eim/library/?view=recent&page=2 Wrestled with the MD Juan body kit forever. Nothing fit except the tailgate. If anyone is considering one of these make sure you have fabricating tools and a mig welder. Getting ready for wiring and paint. Does anyone have thoughts about a Painless wiring harness versus doing it yourself. I remember wiring my old 42 GPW without much problem.

 

I like the Speedway wiring harnesses. Pretty cost effective and the one I have on the shelf came with the headlight switch and a few other things. I think it was under $190 to my door through evilbay.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Speedwa...Rod-/381186053331?hash=item58c07594d3&vxp=mtr

this one (and mine) has the plug for GM column but that can be changed. Get on their website, they have lots of options.

 

Checked out the harness and it looks good. A whole lot better price than a Painless harness.

 

Getting ready to paint. How many gallons of base and clear does it take? I was told 2 gallons of each, seems like alot. Have not painted in 30 years so it's all new to me. Any advice helpful. I was shocked at $3000 to $5000 for a paint job.

 

3-5 grand seems way high. Mine was painted while on the frame, a family friend did it in his shop. Took 3 qts total of hardened base coat for 2coats, did not clear coat it. But it was on the frame so it did not include the underside of the body.

 

That quantity might not be too far off. As I recall, I bought 2 gallons of paint to do my cj5, inside and out, upside and down. I think we used 1.5 gallons, +/-. It's often just as expensive to buy a couple of quarts as it is to buy the whole gallon. We didn't clear my straight enamel paint.

3-5k for a paint job? Maybe. Depending on the cost of the paint and how much work is left for the shop to do. There is more work involved when it's off the chassis and in parts vs. rolling as complete jeep, IMO. Roll it in, tape it up, spray it, roll it out vs. carry it in, piece by piece, hang the parts, spray the parts (roll the tub around, flip the tub over, etc. etc.) carry everything out. Will they have to prime it again and sand it? I'm guessing they will just to make sure that THEY are good with the prep work. Labor can add up fast.

I know a really good paint job on a nice old car can run twice what your estimate was. But that's a REALLY nice paint job. Start getting into custom stuff with 10 coats of clear, etc., and 10k come ring up on the register.

If they are just whipping a quick paint job on it then, yes, 3 -5 grand is high.

 

I fully agree with everything Dave posted.

 

Re the $3000-5000, I think that's about right for a complete job in a first-class shop. But generally shops make money on collision and not resprays.

I recall the rule of thumb on Autobody101 is about 8oz of sprayable material per panel per coat. How to count the panels on a Jeep? I'd say hood top and bottom, 2 fenders, front floor, back floor, wheel houses, cowl, firewall and underside. So that's 80 oz or under a gallon (128 oz).

 

Painting the inside of the tub and exterior. The underside is done. The prices were quoted to me by local top notch collision shops and they didn't seem thrilled about doing it. I know they make their money on insurance work. That is why I am going to try it. Just going to use a gloss enamel. Any one have a preference on paint? Can it be purchased at most auto paint stores or maybe a Sherwin Williams?