CJ3A build

I am putting a Dauntless with T14 and D20 T case into my CJ3A and am using the stock Dauntless motor mounts. I am getting ready to weld the mounts to the frame but the right side does not seem to fit quite right. The bottom of the mount does not come flush to the frame and if I lower that side of the engine it makes it quite unlevel. I bought new motor mounts that bolt to the block and they look identical. When I looked up part numbers they are different for left and right. Does anyone have some close up pics of V6 motor mounts in a 3A? Are the block motor mounts the same or is that my problem? Thanks

 

Can you post a picture of the mount?
Jeepster frame mount is different on right side and won't work.
I'm guessing by your D20 it might be from a Jeepster?
You need a CJ mount.

edit: different rubber mounts for left and right.

 

The frame mounts came from a CJ5 late 60s I was told. The Dana 20 transfer case from a 1974 CJ5. If the rubber mounts are different I must have got two alike because they are identical. Tried to post pics but couldn't figure out how.

 

You need to host your pictures somewhere like Photobucket and link to them, or embed the link if you want it to show in the message. I believe we have a thread about how to post pictures ... likely in the "help with the website" forum

 

You should measure the frame diagonally at the spring pivot brackets for overall straighness of the frame.
You should also check the frame for straightness in the area of the engine bay.
Often times the frame channel in the area of the engine will bow outward. (increase in width)
Measure from right side to left side in order to determine if that area has bowed itself outward.
Frame channels should be straight from front to rear and not bowed out along the engine bay.

 

http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/wb3eim/media/IMG_0145_zps1fe71670.jpg.html Here I hope is the link to a photo of my build, I will post more detailed pics if this works.

 

Measured the frame at different points and seems to be very close in all directions. I cured most of my problem when I noticed the right front tire was low on air, when I inflated it corrected some of the problem. I added some close ups of the right side mount on the last posts link. I think it probably close enough to weld in. Thoughts?

 

Evan at full magnification I really can't see the gap that you mention.
If anything it looks to me like the LH or drivers side may have a gap.
Can you take a better pic of the gap itself ?

The RH and LH Dauntless rubber mounts look virtually identicle.... but they are not.

 

If you go to this link there is a close up of the passenger side mount and you can see the gap. http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/wb3eim/media/IMG_0145_zps1fe71670.jpg.html . I have changed the rubber motor mounts from side to side and they seem the same. There is no part # on them and when they came there was no boxes or way to tell them apart. What was the difference?

 

There is a L and a R for the rubber motor mounts but, when I did my JEEP, I couldn't tell the difference either. I think I have them reversed and that may be why my exhaust hangs lower on the one side. I just never got around to swapping them to see if it makes a difference. Supposedly, it changes the level by like a half inch, or an inch or something.

The gap you mention does not seen horrendous to me. Things may have gotten out of whack when they were removed from the donor vehicle. Probably wouldn't be hard to bend the upper and/or lower mounting tabs a bit, to make for a tighter fit.

Your project is looking good. Keep up the good work.

 

I agree with Wheelie that the bracket does not look too bad as it is.

Honestly I forgot how to tell the difference between RH and LH mounts.
I'll take a look at them and tell you what to look for.
My understanding is that they are designed differently in order to help eliminate ODD FIRE engine vibrations.

I suggest you set a 4' level across the RH and LH frame rails.
Place some blocks under the frame if needed.
Then you can level the engine across the valve covers.
If the brackets still have a gap you should then bend the bracket's flanges to fit the frame.

 

Must be we think alike, I already put a 4' level on the frame and it was perfect the way it was once I inflated the right front tire. The engine is level in the pics and I was just getting ready to bent the flanges in and weld, but I wanted to make sure of the rubber mounts first.

 

If you remove the rubber mounts you will notice that they both have a hollow indentation on the innermost plate.
The RH mount is hollow toward the bottom whereas the LH mount is hollow toward the top.

 

Pulled the mounts and there is no indentation on either, must be interchangable. Heated up and bent the flanges in and they fit very well now. Does anyone know if there is some kind of mount/ isolater for the D20 transfer case? I used the stock 51 cross member as you can see in the photos but the only mount is the transmission mount. I would feel better if there was a mount like the D18 has.

 

Take a lok at eBay # 140909181771.
They have the indents.

 

Checked out the ones on Ebay and saw what you mean. The ones I have do not have them, they are flat on the back. I checked back to the Ebay sale where I got them and they list the manufacturer as Crown. When I went to the Crown web site I could not find where they even sell them so I have no idea who made them. Since I have changed them from side to side with no noticable difference they must be interchangable.

 

I would like to put the gas tank in between the rear frame rails. What tank would be better the 71-75 CJ5 or the 76-84? I sure this has been done but I couldn't find a thread. Thanks

 

The 76 and up tank is wider as the frame rails are spread further apart. I would go with an early CJ-5 tank where they had moved it to the rear. 70-71. I'm not sure if 72-75 is the same.