re wiring job

I got my new EZ wire kit and pulled of my dash and got kind of dizzy trying to figure out where to start. Is it as hard as it looks. My old wires are all over the place so i guess the thing to do is just take out the old stuff and start. Any tips or suggestions.

 

Maybe leave the old wires in place and lay in the new ones alongside them, before you rip out all the old ones? Use 'em as a guide?

 

I was overwhelmed at first when I did mine. I did not know where to start. I suggest starting from scratch by removing the old wires first. I like to keep things dirt road simple and remove the rat's nest of wires. Less complicated for me. Who knows how much of a mess it is and how the PO wired (rigged) it? I had no wiring experience at all. Follow the directions and keep a few extra circuits in there for future upgrades...no matter if you want them now or not. When I did mine I did the lights first. This is fairly easy and will allow you to get some good OJT first. Like others have said, the wires are all labeled. Print out a couple of good color schematics from this site and it will help you out.

Good Luck

 

:iagree:

Rip 'em out, start fresh, neat and tidy, divide and conquer, complete each circuit before going to the next.

 

I also agree, rip out the old and start new just like said. I did use the wires from the headlights where they tie into the factory junction on the drivers side fender. My pigtail there was in good shape. Think how you want hte fuse box mounted, I mounted mine about 10" to the right of the body centerline, sorta in front of the glove box, it made getting to things easaier but if you are planning to change out hte factory heater now or later its not a good idea, by doin gthis my wires to the drivers side tail lights were short by about a foot, just spliced in more wire. I kept all my wires in my tub until I got to the rear wheel tub, then put in a grommet and went thru it to the rear lights. The wires are held to the body with these and cable ties:

 

Great advice from folks who have done it. I will tear out the old and start new. Did you guys replace everything. Some of my wires are still good the more I get away from the dash. Also, when you made a connection, what did you do, example, connecting to the brake switch, did you install a new connector or splice the old one to the end of the new wire ? Same question for all the connections, horn, starter, lights................Thanks for all the comments. I am looking forward to start now.
I do have room for the fuse panel under the driver side dash. I already have an after market heater installed there but with a little modification I can fit the fuse panel between the heater and the emergency brake.

One last question, my jeep has two brake swtiches, one on the from line and one on the back. What is the purpose of two ? The front has been disconnected for years and the brake lites still work

 

To operate the lites if one part of the MC failed. I also only wired in one of my switches as one was damaged and I couldn't find one at the time, just never got around to changing the broke one.

 

Just finished wiring a building for a network and for phones. Over 1600 8 conductor cables. Wiring is not hard...One at a time with lablels

 

Thinking about using the "painless" kit. A couple of questions:
Can I use it with a Chevy steering column conversion?
One kit better than the other?

Thanks

 

Painles has a separte kit for the GM colum plug.

If you call them they can set you up with part #'s.

I am leaning towards the EZ 12 kit.

This is a good site for info to.
http://www.americanstreetmasters.com

They have the diagram you need then go get a plug from a car at wrecking yard

If you search here you can find more as well.

 

EZ Wire 12 comes with the proper connections for a GM steering column if that's what you're suggesting getting from a junkyard?

I replaced my turn signal switch while I was at it. EZ Wire had both style plugs included.



Sparky using Mom's computer.

 

The one thing I learned when re wiring my jeep, be very very careful with the studs on the back of the fuel and temp gauge. These are very sensitive. Make sure the studs don't twist, make sure you don't bridge any connections with a socket handle or something and make sure you hook it back up right the FIRST time. if your careless, when you put it back together, you'll be looking for a new speedometer assembly. Other then that, replace all the wiring and use either crimp terminals with dielectric grease, or take the time to twist the wires nice, solder them then heat shrink over em. When you put the flashers in, make sure the prongs are on the right side of the contacts in the harness. And get a nice clean ground everywhere you can so you don't have to go back when something stops working.

 

be careful of old wiring sometimes it can be wrong and confusing.

Trust your kit.

My .02 cents

 

Go slowly, lay it out on the ground and go circuit by circuit.

 

First, mount your fuse box exactly where you want it. Then, run all your wires where they go. Do NOT cut ANY wire until you have them all where you want them and are sure that they will stay there.

Also, get yourself a bunch of the split loom wire covers and a whole buncha zip ties.

You may also want to hook up a couple of relays for the headlights while your doing all this. Sure helps the headlight brightness.