Get Cerlist Running

Do you have an extra pto assembly and 5hp Briggs laying around?

 

That is genius! But no I don’t.

If it has brakes I’d have the wife’s tow me around for a bit

I did learn another tid bit today. Reading the manual (again probably should have led with that) and chatting with another fc cellar owner, I needed to use much much more glow plug especially with temps this morning in the 30’s. The manual said 30 seconds to start, if it doesn’t start pretty quick another 30 seconds or more of glow plug. Wish I’d read that earlier. Much much earlier

 

These old diesels can be pretty damn cantankerous to start in the cold. I've had to light up my propane torch and have someone hold it in the intake of my Perkins when winter camping to get it to start. Even once running, if you pull the torch away too soon it will die. Just not enough heat. With the FC you should be able to hold the torch to the intake and turn the ignition with one person. Same function as a glow plug, maybe even more effective.

I definitely don't like using starting fluid on it.. I learned something new about the WD 40 reading this. I'll try that next time. I've still got some work to do with the fuel system on the perkins.

 

That is a great idea heating the incoming air! I’ll try that along with more glow plug next time. And you’re right about these being cantankerous. Dan told me his starting procedure that’s good down to the 40’s on his Cerlist. He said much cooler than that is a different story. Next time I think I’ll preheat the barn for a day or so before trying again. Once I get the starter sorted that is.

 

I start my Italian air cooled no glow 2 cylinder diesel tractor in cold conditions by blowing my heat gun into the intake manifold for several minutes before pushing the start button.

 

I recently got one of these but haven't installed it yet:
https://www.steinertractor.com/ABC4...MIupy-95_g9QIVAjI4Ch3SVQGNEAQYASABEgI7RPD_BwE

 

That's what my Perkins uses in the intake as a the "glow plug". I need to find a new proper hose to feed it from the reservoir. I had one made up in an emergency and it doesn't drip enough fuel to catch fire. Make sure your hose is about the size of a rubber brake line.

 

Yes, somewhere I learned that they were common on Perkins. Per the on-line instructions, I intend to feed it from the injector return line, which passes within inches.

 

show more pics!

 

Ahhh it’s tucked back in its corner of the rv car port. I will though once the starter is done and she’s moved back to the barn.

I did drop the starter off today. They can get the drive parts but not the nose cone. He’s going to call once they get into it with a better quote.

 

Will it be a 12v or 24v starter when it returns?

 

I’ts looking like it’ll remain 12v. For now anyway.

 

That was the standard starting system for all of my 30 series case tractors-heating element in the intake manifold. Not to be used with ether-----

My Toolcat 5600 uses glow plugs and gives you a "countdown" on the needed time based on the ambient temp. When it's down close to zero, I give it a double dose.

 

I would be happy to do it for you! Once the rat droppings are cleaned out lol

 

Well I haven’t heard anything from the starter shop but I realized there was a “ make an offer” option on that NOS starter on eBay. I offered $300 and it was accepted

So that’s on the way. That should give time to knock out a few other projects before moving the FC back into the barns working bay.

 

Way ahead of you Nick! I just soaped and pressure washed the entire cab a few days ago. I believe it’s ready for ya.

 

What a cool project. I think there is one in the background of my dad's Vietnam pictures. Cool piece of history.

Dave

 

Found the picture. Bob Hope and his crew are leaving DaNang in 1968. In the background appears to be an M677 with a light on top.


Dave

 

Would that be a 24v starter? I'm just keeping tabs on components. I don't know if you could do a 12v run 24v start system with dual 12v batteries and a few solenoids. The starter sounds like the most expensive electrical component on the vehicle.

 

I revisited the link and was wrong. It’s 12v. It’s stamped right on the Id tag. I’m not sure what to do with the rest of the electrical. Maybe I’ll try to figure out that Orpin switch.