New EFI Option - Looks Like 3 Good Players Now

Holley Sniper EFI 12-307 Holley OE Style EFI Fuel Tank Modules - 255 LPH - Jeep CJ
I did some random googling and it seems blocking off the return port on the sniper is common although hearing it from Holley is what I am going to work on next.

 

Petty clear in the pump description. I also have a return line already in place. If anyone finds having the return is an advantage I’m definitely open to using it.

 

What is this black magic!? And a rear tank to match.

Makes sense to me seeing the pump ad. Basically the pressure regulator in the throttle body is not used. At 50+lbs of pressure it would take a lot of heat to vapor lock the fuel in the line. I don't have much concern anymore, is it running yet?

 

Can a moderator move the last 3+ pages to a new topic? “Holley Sniper, who’s in?”

 

Stock Fuel pump delete? Thoughts?

 

Just get a block off plate.

 

They all look the same but never say that it will fit a Buick V6

This?

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/MRG-1516

 

That one fits.

 

Question - would a Ferrous target Hall effect crank sensor need to be mounted to an aluminum bracket, versus steel?

 

I mounted mine in aluminum, looks like jwinsley made his out of aluminum too.

jwinsley.....



My setup

 

Here is kind of an amusing story.
A couple months back I got a random phone call from a gentleman in So Cal who had been fighting his Howell TBI kit for either 2 or 3 years, unable to get it to run.
Troy from Howell gave him my number to help him with the crank sensor setup. Perhaps Howell should put me on the payroll......
After we got through his initial rant about the system we got down to business with crank sensors and what not. He eventually got his CJ6 running and is now happy as far as I know.
Here is the crank sensor bracket that he made using the corvette sensor. It is basically a flat plate that bolts to the old fuel pump mounting location. He used a piece of angle for the sensor mount. I believe that he used aluminum as well.

 

Here's Jwinsley's pics (looking up from underneath) from the other thread for reference against yours above:


Do you guys run three sensor bolts on the balancer? How do you choose which holes get sensor bolts and which do not?

Here's a pic I grabbed off Google - looks like it has 12 holes. Which "clock positions" do you run them in?


Looks like some have the ferrous target on the back, some on the front...? The Holley Sensor (#554-124) Jwinsley listed elsewhere is 2" long so it will have to stick out perpendicular to the chassis.

Edit - also a separate question about O2 sensor mounting location. For those with stock pipes, how far back aft of the merge did you go, and on which side, R or L?

Here are the Holley directions, should be similar for other EFI systems right?

 

The balancer node positions just need to be evenly spaced. Install the first node, skip 3 holes, install the second node, skip 3 holes, install the third.

 

I doubt that it matters. I base this on the fact that my crank sensor is located within a port factory drilled into the engine block of my Chevy V6.

 

For those of you who do proceed with installing a crank sensor, I recommend, as I did to Kyle when he was installing his system, that a shielded lead be used for the sensor signal wire. The shielding will prevent electrical noise from effecting the ignition pulse signal. When physically installing the shielded lead, only ground the shield at one end of the lead to ground. If both ends are grounded, the shield will become a conductor and defeat it's purpose.

 

What do you guys think of these two ideas for an O2 sensor? I can’t visualize where the kick up and firewall will be since the tub is off…

Higher up facing back?


or lower down facing into the frame rail:

 

Higher and angled leads up. rotate to a 45 outboard as needed.

 

You'll probably need to have the body in place to fit that. Straight back will definitely hit the floorboards. Straight to the side will probably hit the cowl brace. A 45ish angle somewhere in between like Jw60 says will likely work:

 

You want it in a location that you can easily remove it later. I have mine on the drivers side facing upward toward the bell housing. About the area where the floor access to the old master cylinder is. I also had my bung welded in at a muffler shop. I'm not sure how that adapter bung will hold up if you had to remove it. Some can be a pain to replace.

 

It looks to me like the lower location facing into the frame C channel would work. I would probably rotate it out of the frame a little to prevent it from contacting anything during torque flex.
If you have the capability I would definitely pick up an 02 sensor bung and just weld it to the pipe. A weld in bung would allow you to tip the sensor lead end up just a tad to prevent condensation from hanging up in the sensor.
What's the other side look like? Is there enough wire in the system to locate the o2 in the other side?