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Hub Puller?

Discussion in 'Early CJ5 and CJ6 Tech' started by wreckless123, Aug 15, 2006.

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  1. wreckless123

    wreckless123 Member

    When I go today to get a hub puller to get the rear drums off of my 71 CJ5 is there something I need to know? Is there a certain puller I need? I called NAPA and they have no idea what I am talking about, but he tried to sell me a bearing puller.. Also, I am at work and dident measure the nut that holds it on, is that 1.375 nut that I need to get a socket for? Thanks

    [​IMG]
     
    wreckless123, Aug 15, 2006
    #1
  2. lynn

    lynn Time machine / Early CJ5 HR Rep Staff Member

    Most unusual for a '71 to have a tapered axle... :shock:
    We believe that ALL '71 CJ5s had the flanged axle (no nut).

    Another oddity with the rig you found...

    Anyway, do a search on hub puller, it's been discussed many times here
     
    lynn, Aug 15, 2006
    #2
  3. sparky

    sparky Sandgroper Staff Member Founder

    My '71 has 2 piece axles too, made a couple hundred after this one. Coincidence?
     
    sparky, Aug 15, 2006
    #3
  4. Sloth

    Sloth New Member

    Sloth, Aug 15, 2006
    #4
  5. russo

    russo Hope is not a method

    Got mine from Kaiser-Willys. Used it a lot more than I thought I would already and have only had it for six months.
     
    russo, Aug 15, 2006
    #5
  6. sparky

    sparky Sandgroper Staff Member Founder

    FWIW. You don't need a hub puller to remove the drums. You need it to remove the hub and service the bearings in the axle tube.
     
    sparky, Aug 15, 2006
    #6
  7. wreckless123

    wreckless123 Member

    I thought you guys said I needed a puller to take the drum off?? All I need to do is take the drum off to replace the wheel cylinders? I am confused.... How do I get the drum off then?
     
    wreckless123, Aug 15, 2006
    #7
  8. sparky

    sparky Sandgroper Staff Member Founder

    I clearly stated that you didn't need the hub puller to remove the drums unless it was one of two cases.

    1. Willys utility vehicle brakes with integral hub. That's not the case.

    2. The hubs are swaged on the lugs. So now I'll go into more detail on this one. In which case you either need to cut the drum around the lugs to remove it. Or try to pull the hub and take it to the machine shop and have them cut the drum and remove it.
    2.1 you can't pull the hub, it's frozen, then you need to remove the whole axle shaft and brake assembly from the tube and take it to the machine shop for R&R.

    Now, #1 has been ruled out by the picture above. You've not stated whether they are indeed swaged on the lugs or not? The drum slides over the studs which are pressed into the hub. Thus no puller is needed to remove the drum unless there are extenuating circumstances, see conditions 1 and 2 above.

    Back the brake shoes off so they aren't putting pressure on the brake drum and it should pull off. It might take some persuasion from a mallet but it should come off. PB Blaster is your friend. Soak the lug studs with it.

    No need to remove the nut either. It should stay on unless you're removing the hub. Which I believe Glenn did suggest doing to service the bearings. But that's another issue not really related to this one.
     
    sparky, Aug 15, 2006
    #8
  9. atuomi

    atuomi rookie

    I couldn't find the appropriate puller in town here, so i made one. Its pretty crude, but it works. There is another plate that goes on the front but it is missing in the photo. The one shown bolts to the hub, and a large nut or something similar is used inbetween the other plate and the axle nut, so that it has something to push against. Pretty simple, and it cost me about 10$. Like sparky was saying, this is only needed if the drums are swaged onto the hubs.

    View attachment 12585
     
    atuomi, Aug 15, 2006
    #9
  10. Southtowns27

    Southtowns27 Custom Title

    I've found it sometimes helpful to actually knock the studs back through the hub a bit. Run a nut onto the end of the stud (so you don't mushroom it) and give it (the nut, not the end of the stud) a couple whacks with a hammer. You'll see it start to back out. This can help release any rust bond that exists between the stud and drum. Sometimes you really gotta beat on the drums to get them off if they're rusty enough (it looks like yours is). I once needed an air chisel to get a drum off an F-250.... Keep soaking it up with PB Blaster too, it works wonders.
     
    Southtowns27, Aug 15, 2006
    #10
  11. wreckless123

    wreckless123 Member

    No matter what, to get the drum off I have to remove the large 1.375 nut, right?
     
    wreckless123, Aug 15, 2006
    #11
  12. sparky

    sparky Sandgroper Staff Member Founder

    NO! R) That's what holds the hub on. The drum slides over the hub.

     
    sparky, Aug 15, 2006
    #12
  13. w3srl

    w3srl All-around swell dude Staff Member

    The nut should be 1-5/16" IIRC. I actually bought a whole 3/4" drive set just for this job, and the output yokes on my Dana 18.
     
    w3srl, Aug 15, 2006
    #13
  14. Mcruff

    Mcruff Earlycj5 Machinist

    His axle was swapped in! He made mention of this in his earlier
    post.
     
    Mcruff, Aug 15, 2006
    #14
  15. sparky

    sparky Sandgroper Staff Member Founder

    Dang, well, now I know someone likely swapped mine too.

    Boy, we can't figure out what's going on with this Jeep. R)
     
    sparky, Aug 15, 2006
    #15
  16. Glenn

    Glenn Kinda grumpy old man Staff Member

    I think he said he couldn't get the drum off and he could see the swaged studs were holding the drum on. That's why I suggested pulling the hubs. Driving the studs back a bit is risky, depends on how easily they would move. Could risk bending the hub, also trying to pull them back out by tightening with a lug nut might not work either.
     
    Glenn, Aug 16, 2006
    #16
  17. grannyscj

    grannyscj Headed to the Yukon

    X2 on pounding on the studs. You're going to need to buy or make a hub puller. This one's rather expensive but the picture shows what you need. View attachment 12586 Here's another from HF View attachment 12587 . It can be made easily if you know how to weld. You don't need the slide hammer. The axle has a centering point so just use a jack screw. Once you get the hub off you should be able to press out the studs w/ a good vise or shop press. Back up the hub w/ a piece of pipe big enough for the lug bolt to travel through. Some PB Blaster won't hurt. The bolts will shoot out violently sometimes so support your work. Should allow you to save your hubs.:v6:
     
    grannyscj, Aug 16, 2006
    #17
  18. sparky

    sparky Sandgroper Staff Member Founder

    Slide hammer isn't likely to work on these hubs in my experience. Then again MOP broke my heavy duty hub puller with a hub like this, so it wasn't the answer either.
     
    sparky, Aug 16, 2006
    #18
  19. grannyscj

    grannyscj Headed to the Yukon

    Never have liked slide hammer pullers. Usually end up busting a knuckle or pinching a blood blister someplace painful.:v6:
     
    grannyscj, Aug 16, 2006
    #19
  20. sparky

    sparky Sandgroper Staff Member Founder

    Oh, if you do pull the hub, be sure to leave the nut on the axle at least a few threads. You don't need projectiles flying about (the hub when it comes free).
     
    sparky, Aug 16, 2006
    #20
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