What Did You Do To Your Jeep Today?

Flipped?

 

The draglink is.

 

Today I installed a cheapie tachometer and a horn button. I already had wiring harness up on my list, but getting behind the dash again may have moved that up a bit.

Horn is a button (visible near the tach, 5500 rpm), I need to search the forum to find a way to use the button in the steering wheel with a saginaw conversion.

 

Knocked out a couple of hours in the garage before the heat got too high. Finished out the steering and got the engine/trans/tcase in the CJ2A.

The wide angle setting on my phone made the CJ5 look a bit weird.

 

• Installed the new 24V solid state voltage regulator in the M38A1, and took it for a drive. 11 in backing plates for the 64 CJ5 are cleaned and painted. Next to order the other brake hardware from Rock Auto.

Dave

 

Draped a sheet over the fence and aimed the headlights. On the NH ride the od popped out of direct a couple times on me. I tore off the cheesy boot and threw it away. I'm pretty sure that was making it pop out on the rougher spots. Still I put a stiffer spring in the detent. Retorqued the od attachment bolts, indeed they needed it. Despite my best efforts, couldn't make it pop out on the test drive.

 

James,

I’m worinh on a similar conversion, same two knuckle. Wondering if you used the stock bellcrank. Mine has a bit of a drop o it. Concerned that it may not not clear the drag link.

Thanks

 

Appreciate the tip on the shims. The bell-crank is a replacement, could be different. After another look, it looks like I might be able to mount the tie rod above the bell-crank rather than below. Only one way to be sure. Thanks!

 

As an update to the OD. I got AA on the phone and they said they had some od's get out the door without the detent spring and ball. On the way at no charge with apologies.

 

Today, I figured out that my YF carb float valve was sticking. Seems to be the fuel affecting the rubber tip. Sanding it lightly "cured" the symptoms.

Anyone know a source for a good float valve replacement, without buying a whole kit? It is the spring-loaded type, for '56 F-head.

 

Yesterday I finished up most of the engine accessories on the CJ2, oil filter cannister, alternator, intake/exhuast, carb, fuel pump, oil feed and return lines for the oil filter assembly, distributor along with a Pertronix electronic drop in ignition, then got most of the clutch linkage assembled except I forgot to order the "adjustment yoke", so I put an order in for that along with a few other odds and ends. Hopefully tomorrow I can get the exhaust dropped in and welded up. Getting really close to time to put the tub back on. And I still need to order up new drive shafts.

 

Yep, cleaning them can be done, I cleaned a sticking rubber tip on one with steel wool, It sort of had a polishing effect on the rubber. Worked well.
Might try Mike's carburetor. He may have the valves separate from buying a whole kit.

 

Question, I noticed sitting on your battery tray some green colored bolts, are they a special coating bolt for something?

 

I used this boot on mine, it worked out well.
https://jb-custom-fabrication.myshopify.com/products/triple-stick-shifter-boot

 

So.....Today I got the Hitch the way I wanted it.

So......while I was on a Roll ,I got the spare started. I'm pleased....I think ?

 

I replaced the fuel tank sending unit. What a PITA! The forward skid plate bolts are hard to reach. Those Z clips for the aft tank mounts are a bear to position. It's like a twisted puzzle to assemble. I had this apart 10+ years ago, installing a new tank & sending unit, thinking I would never do it again. But, SIGH, the sending unit partly failed, and I like to know how much fuel I have. I bought two new sending units. The Crown is a more robust unit, so I used that one.

 

Sorry Man.....Yeah, all gas tanks are a PITA. Brake fluid blows pretty bad too.

 

wow you got a hole under jeep

 

That's pretty cool, how do you like having a pit at home? I don't have nearly enough height to do anything but a half sized lift.