52 M38a1 Motor Pool Resto

Will be reusing the axle bumpers that I took off. They're in good shape but I'll use some rust converter and paint on the undersides. Water and mud do accumulate under these between the frame rails. I do have some NOS bumpers on the shelf but no need. These bumpers are taller than the ones I have. I'll try to find them and post a pic to compare. Maybe this was an early run and Willys changed the design later....

 

Hmmm, seems my 52 had a change in the tranny at some point...

And I suspect the transfer as well. I interpret Oct 15th. 1953 based upon this casting. Maybe the 18th made on that date at the Spicer factory? Thoughts??

 

So my suspicions are correct in that the oil leaks through the threads of bolts tapped through into the reservoir. I suspect that most of the leaking came from these sources.

Nice and wet with gear oil...From the rear bearing retainer.

So after a wash in the parts cleaner, I'll apply thread sealant to all of the bolts. If you guys suggest something different, make your opinions known.

Rear bearing retainer off. No gasket but there is a shim pack. This area was the worst leaker but I've seen much worse. It dawned on me that I should use this retainer since machining may be different on my squeaky clean one I have on the shelf. We don't want to change the preload, do we?

 

So, a pleasant discovery in the T-90. Tiny bit of flash rust but I don't see anything that normal use and a lube change won't solve. The gears rotate and slide with little effort. I'll even reuse the gasket I think.

Shift cover appears to be in similar condition.

 

It's standard practice here on the forum to spray both sides of the shims with a very light coat of spray on gasket sealant like this:


You'll also want to use RTV on the yoke splines during final assembly because oil can leak past those too.

And as you found out, most of the external bolts go through to the inside of the case and need thread sealant to prevent seaping.

 

Noted on all counts and appreciate the insight.

 

I put a bead of RTV around the outside of the shim pack and have no leaks there.

 

Miracle System for the win!
This may sound a bit like bragging, but it’s more of how impressed I am with results we see time after time. For those not familiar, the bridge/key pulling systems are the latest and greatest way of pulling dents and creases. The idea is using kinetic energy with gentle hammer work to pull the dents in a very controlled way that minimizes stretching found with wiggle wire and pins. This is minimally invasive to panels as the weld burn from the metal keys is smaller than pins. We also have glue-pull tabs that work in same fashion. While not really necessary on our older thick sheet metal, this concept does amazing things on today’s high strength steels (that love to stretch), and aluminum sheet metal. We shouldn’t need any plastic filler when it’s done.

 

That's so impressive Shaun. This was the perfect tool for the job since there's no way to get in inside windshield frame. I'm struggling to find a good picture of the dent.

 

I tried to capture the dents in post 159 (page 8?). Hopefully that gives some indication as to the progress.

 

You're so right Shaun. Here they are again:

Incredible results!

 

I'll be looking for your Jeep at the Concour's d'Elegance. Going to be a "100-pointer."

 

Well thanks Pete but that's not the goal! I've not even decided if this w/s will live on this project or another. Aside from the electrical system, the 52 will be bone stock and I've never seen a ventilating windshield on a M38A1 (yet).

 

I had a short stack of parts come today. I could not find NOS clutch tube studs and seals, or snubber bushings but we must move on....

The clamps right front are for the transmission boot. The ones that came with the jeep were boogered. These are super useful for keeping water out of the tranny/transfer from above. It's a miracle that there was no water in the gear boxes when I drained them and want to keep it that way! I'm glad to have the transmission gaskets and assorted parts since I'm ready to wrap up this part of the project. I'm beginning to transition from teardown/cleaning into assembly but this cold snap may slow things down this weekend. We'll see....Pete

 

One more benefit of a snorkel-ready Jeep. There are many.

 

Pete, when I'm ready to go 24V I'll be sure to reach out for a consult. I'm committed to doing this when ready. You're so close. We've met a few times before, the last time being when you bought that Koenig winch when I lived in Dublin....Still kicking myself in the **s for selling it, but my wife and I were moving after all.

 

Clutch tube studs?...seals?...snubber bushings?

 

Now I remember... I'm taking good care of the winch, and it has taken good care of me.

My M38A1-C is mothballed (and squirrel infested) but available for you to look at. 98% original conformation, unrestored.

 

Yes....C and D in this diagram. The snubber bushings insulate the passenger side of the transfer case to the transmission crossmember.

 

Sounds like you need barn cats. Since we've had a couple here, not a nibble or nest on a single piece of equipment. EVER.